celtic

iTrader: (-1)

thanks dude do you use kit bars

Customworksking

iTrader: (74)

1st is it low bite or Med to high ? 2nd.what motor ? 3rd.bulk heads are allways flat the only thing u neeed to rais or lower is the suspension blocks via sus spacers ie:1,2,3,4,5.4th oil 5th how long r youe camber links? 6th droop what is it ? let me know and I will tell u what to try...Kevin

sosidge

Kit bars, yes. Try a couple of others if you like.

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Hi Guys,

Just want to post a quick note we have more TF-5 Stallion parts listed online. Belts and pulleys and some more hop-ups back in stock

Steve Wang

carkillaii

iTrader: (2)

Really thinking about geting this car , but looking for the best foam setup lil help please!!

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

Sin its debut, what are best results for the Kyosho Stallion? I just cant remember it placing top 5 in past months...

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

I believe Kyosho driver Japan Adachi placed 3rd in the competitive JMRCA Japan Modified National few months ago (for reference, I believe Marc Rheinard, and Andy Moore were all in the B and C main)

Steve Wang

Customworksking

iTrader: (74)

Not that many out running in the us I know of I was the only 1 with 1 at the Novak 2nd in the B got running much better now! In time U will see it

celtic

iTrader: (-1)

med to high grip no spacers under suspension blocks down stops 4 all round 19 turn atlas or 19 turn checkpoint money i will messure camber links when i get home tonight thanks dude

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

3rd at the 2006 JMRCA? Well, that's exellent, especially against Masami and Hara and other great Japanese drivers...what about the Cleveland Champs, LIIC, Novak Race, DHI2007? Also, who are the Kyosho Team drivers, especially in the US?

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

Can anyone please post some pics of their actual Stallion? No factory driver cars please- just the regular cars we would get- need to see if it actually comes with aluminum bulk heads or the plastic ones, like the TF-5 shaft

KyLayfield

iTrader: (86)

-US Team drivers- Josh Cyrul, Ron Atomic, Jason Swift, not sure about any others..

-It comes with the top bulkhead pieces made out of plastic. You can buy the aluminium parts as hop-ups but the plastic ones will work fine.

Customworksking

iTrader: (74)

Josh Cyrul his car in no way is a stallion !

Customworksking

iTrader: (74)

wow bet its hard to drive and loose off power huaa ok
try all shocks 1 hole in on tower 50 ae oil all 4 ,try blue ft yellow rear or red
# 2 sus spacers Frt and rear 1.5mm up travle frt 3mm rear 5mm ride height
frt 5.5 rear long camber links frt and rear no spacer under rear inner ball stud 3mm spacer under frt if u need more streering go to 2mm,then1mm then none also try the short camber link hole in the frt 1.5deg camber all 4 run it without sway bars then try Kit bars FT and rear ..try 1.5 to 2 deg rear toe I base mine off A A as the front of the rear blocks so that will = D D out = 1.5 E E out = 2deg the front start with A A in the front and the rear block B B in is 0.5 C C in is 1.0deg if u have a onpower push try #1 spacers under the front blocks only keep the rear @ 2 that is if removing the spacers under the frt camber link does not work so if u remover the #2 spacer's put the camber link back up to 3mm also remove the gray foam off the top of the diaphragm of each shock.... LMK how it works

King of B Main

iTrader: (40)

Guys, I have been playing with the front and rear roll centers. The front and rear hidge pins are very low. So what I have found out is the lower the hidge pin are the more the car will roll and it has less traction.

To take away roll you need to raise the hidge pins which raises the roll center.
But there is a fine line . If you raise it to much you will traction roll.

I am running 2,2 in front and 3,3 in rear. I run medium bit asphalt.

Hope that helps..