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Old 07-31-2013, 07:53 AM
  #1756  
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I had to shim A LOT on the outside between the bushing and the spur gear shaft (five 0.3 shims). Not sure if it was necessary, but I did not want the shaft gliding back n forth. Just a couple 0.1 shims on the inside.

Originally Posted by poeee
Excuse me as I'm sure this has been covered before. I am putting together my S1. This is my first touring car build, as I have been running Mini exclusively. The spur gear assembly has some side to side movement. A fair bit. Is this right, or should I shim it?
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:46 AM
  #1757  
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Originally Posted by Bappe
yes you would, but looking at the burst current im not sure that it would like things like boost or turbo when using low turn motors as 6.5 or 5.5t. but if you happen to smoke it its not really alot of money lost
If im using a 6.5t or 5.5t motor would it be better for me to go with the 60a or 120a esc? Thanks
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Old 08-01-2013, 04:42 AM
  #1758  
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Continuing on with my build. It's almost done.

A couple of issues with the kit, however. It was missing one flanged bearing. One of the four that are in the steering rack. Whatever... I'll source one to fit in there.

I then got to the servo to steering rack rod. The turnbuckle thread on one side isn't to tolerance. It's too small. Just slides in and out of a ball end cap. Also one of the ball end caps is too big for a ball... that's ok, I bought some Tamiya ones I'll use eventually.

All a little unfortunate. I don't mind too much, it's a $100 kit.

Is it worth contacting Spec-R directly or should I just simply go source my own gear.

I might just buy some good turnbuckles. Anyone recommend stuff that isn't overly expensive?
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Old 08-01-2013, 04:48 AM
  #1759  
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Quitcherbitchin! My steering turnbuckle wasn't even threaded on one end!

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Old 08-01-2013, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by .crispy
Quitcherbitchin! My steering turnbuckle wasn't even threaded on one end!

I'll count myself lucky then!
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:34 AM
  #1761  
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Originally Posted by blitz98
If im using a 6.5t or 5.5t motor would it be better for me to go with the 60a or 120a esc? Thanks
Just forget about the 60A...
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:47 AM
  #1762  
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Thinking of picking up an S1 to run in our local VTA. But, I'll probably get the R1 in case I want to switch to TC. How have they been in the VTA class?


The S1 kit is very temping tho....I can get a total VTA setup (with spares) for about what an xray or serpent KIT costs!
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Old 08-02-2013, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by poeee
Is it worth contacting Spec-R directly or should I just simply go source my own gear.
Toss them an email, they are actually pretty good to deal with and their postage is very quick.
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Old 08-02-2013, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Pinebox
Thinking of picking up an S1 to run in our local VTA. But, I'll probably get the R1 in case I want to switch to TC. How have they been in the VTA class?


The S1 kit is very temping tho....I can get a total VTA setup (with spares) for about what an xray or serpent KIT costs!
The S1 is also good in TC, I have 2, that i run in 17.5, 10.5 and mod.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by RogerDaShrubber
Toss them an email, they are actually pretty good to deal with and their postage is very quick.
(Edit: see below. No need to repeat myself.)

Gears can be had anywhere.

Last edited by .crispy; 08-06-2013 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:47 AM
  #1766  
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got the new 2.25 option chassi today, compeletely different carbon than std chassi, more flex, and more "soft" flex
will order the new topdeck too now, looking forward to try the car on carpet again now with the new parts
chassi is 85mm wide, same as my dremeled std chassi

regarding parts, if you dont have a lhs that sells spec r parts then egr mart or spec r`s own homepage is the best thing, really fast shipping and service, i order all my spec r stuff from them

Last edited by Bappe; 08-06-2013 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 08-06-2013, 12:04 PM
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Keep in mind, Bappe is in Sweden, so shipping from Hong Kong or the U.S. is six of one, half dozen of the other.

For U.S. addresses, TQ RC is the way to go. I don't know them. I have no ties to them. But I've used them a dozen times and they've yet to screw me over.

I got a broken driveshaft from them that was broken in the package. I e-mailed them with a picture. They refunded my money. I didn't even send anything back. Seem like good people.
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SamuraiJack
I had to shim A LOT on the outside between the bushing and the spur gear shaft (five 0.3 shims). Not sure if it was necessary, but I did not want the shaft gliding back n forth. Just a couple 0.1 shims on the inside.
Hey, are you able to post a picture of what your shimming looks like, Jack?
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:32 PM
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Went ahead and got a used S1, with a few spares, to race in our local VTA....
Gotta wait for it to get here next week to see just what shape it's in. But, it should be good to go from the pics. Motor, esc and tires are on the way. TQ RC shopping cart is full of spares and a body...finish up that order after I get the chassis.

Looking forward to on-roading again!
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:59 PM
  #1770  
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Remember the Saft DOES NOT spin like most touring cars, only the spur gear spins on the bearing you put inside it, the shaft moving back and forth means nothing and especially with th S1 shimming it can force the plastic bulkheads in or out allowing some tweak in the car.

I have tons of movement in my shaft with the optional POM inserts and it is no problem and super fast in VTA
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