Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Plus Keven's shock mount isn't an Associated part when you look through the window of the body-

https://www.teamassociated.com/pictu...ps-7299_lg.jpg

Scott_T

iTrader: (5)

Looks a bit like a floating servo mount in there.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

What is a better way for the battery transverse or inline just picked up a r5.2 with spares reciver ready for 225.
Its setup as inline but what does transverse do to the car

1/4milecrazy

iTrader: (5)

Ok so 1/12th newb here looking for some suggestions. First off, where should I go to learn about chassis adjustments and what they do. I'm not looking for someone elses set-up sheet, I want to know what adjustments affect the car in what way. I can dial a 2wd buggy right where it needs to be, but I want to learn pan car. I acquired an R5.2 used, so I am not sure what the set-up is right now, but I do know that the car has had the spacers added to the front but the R5.1 brace has not been installed. I have one I am gonna put in.

Took the car out to day and it felt pretty good except for one thing. There is a chicane leading onto the back straight and the car does something strange getting out onto the straight. On power, almost seems like it is "diffing out" (off-road terms). I was going to tighten up the diff a little but was afraid it would cause a push so I didnt try yet. I want to rebuild the diff first.

Running on CRC black carpet. Track layout changes often, so where would be a good starting point for springs and tires? I have 3 boxes of tires that were given to me as well, CRC, RC4less and Jacos, all different shures, should I try them all and see what I like? I normally would start there but that would end up being almost a million different combinations. Is it safe to assume that lower shure would be a softer tire? And last question. Natural rubber vs synthetic, whats the deal there.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

Dont mind me asking but what track is it u run at 360 in ny giving ur location i run there aswell

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

Also if it is 360 the track has a spec tire for 12th scale 13.5 and 17.5 at the track mod is open tire. The guys running 12th there are some of the fastest in the country i would ask them but if the car is good all over the track and not at the turn right b4 the straight i would leave it not to sacrifice messing with it on the rest of the track for that 1 section

1/4milecrazy

iTrader: (5)

Haven't been to 360 yet but I do plan on getting out there one day. Been running at RC world in Middletown. Ran 1/12th, TC and VTA there last year.

1/4milecrazy

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, usually I would not change the car for one corner except for the fact that it pretty much stops when it does it. If I had to describe it I would say it feels as though the combination of corner speed and the aggresiveness of getting on the throttle it seems like it is lifting the inside tire enough to lose contact with the ground. I know tightening the diff will fix the problem, but I would also like to read, in depth, what tightening the diff is going to effect. Can I tighten the diff and make another change that will give me more steering to compensate for what a tighter diff will take away?

Unfortunately there was nobody else there with a pan car last night. But as well I dont want someone to say "here use this set-up" and be done with it, I need to know why/what/how/when.

Oh and BTW what is the spec tire for 360? I will have to pick some up so I know what to expect when I do go there.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

I truely dont know being i just picked up a 5.2 but its listed on there facebook.
Think about coming by peopl like phill trotta keven herbert mike hanulec all run there and are all willing to help keep everyone getting as fast as they can if u can instead of the tolls to rc world come out this thurs for club race b4 stock wars

1/4milecrazy

iTrader: (5)

Ill go do some poking around on their facebook page. Thanks. Cant make Thursdays due to working at the Hobby shop. But I will keep an eye on their schedule.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

Normal racedays are weds and sun with practice on sat this week its thurs just for stock wars after that its back to normal hope to see u there soon not to many ae drivers there

1/4milecrazy

iTrader: (5)

Sundays might be the ticket. We are racing every other Sunday right now. I am getting a TC6.1 soon to replace my old TC5 that I am using in 17.5 so my TC5 might end up USGT or replacing my TC3 for VTA.

I found some set-up stuff online that I am gonna try a few things out. Got a tire truer too, Gonna order some different rate springs for the car as well. I have to figure out what changes this car needs when it is not doing what I want it to do.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

Might want to look into getting a tc7 being that omni models on ebay has them for 275 shiped right bow

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

I modified my 12r5.2 to use a silva shock. The length is right at 66mm (I think that's right) but it doesn't let you build any droop or slop in it even when the collar is not touching the spring. Do I have too much oil in it? How much rebound should it have? I think somebody said you should have about 10% of the shaft sticking out after you push it in? Help please. I looked at Edwards video on droop and it still has not sunk in....

Fredp1

iTrader: (11)

I set my rebound to be as little as possible as you want the shock to act like a damper, not like a spring.
It can be a bit frustrating to minimise rebound as its all about how you cap the blabber and shock cap.
I fully extend the shock shaft, set the bladder on the body slowly push the shock shaft expelling any excess oil/air then seal the bladder. I then very slightly pull the shock shaft back out and it should suck the bladder down causing a seal. Then carefully cap the shock.

For droop have a look at this method. Its the way I do it.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/xra...dChassisFront/

You need to know the shock has 2 adjustments
1) the tension on the spring - controls centre ride height/sag
2) the length of the shock - controls rear pod droop

The tension is adjusted by the shock collar nut. It puts tension on the spring causing the centre of the chassis to lift or sag. The spring tension adjusts your centre ride height measured at the FRONT of the REAR pod. I set it about 0.2mm less than the ride height measured at the rear of the pod. Some people keep the centre ride height the same as the rear.

The pod droop, I put the 2 hudy blocks under the main chassis. This will allow the rear pod to be suspended purely by the length of the shock.
I set my pod droop to be about 1.5mm lower than the main chassis.
This means the rear pod should be hanging lower than the main chassis a bit like this ----\. You adjust pod droop by the length of the shock.
With the rear pod drooping, measure the height at the rear of the pod with the hudy droop gauge
Adjust/screw/unscrew the plastic ball cup at the bottom of the shock attached to the spring retainer to lengthen or shorten the shock.

If you do not have a hudy droop gauge/blocks, just set you car on the bench and measure centre ride height at the front of the rear pod. Then lift the car from the centre without lifting the front/rear wheels. The car will look something like this /\. Now measure the new centre ride height. The difference between the 2 measurements will be your droop.


The confusion I found that sometimes the terms sag and droop get interchanged.
Sag is all about keeping the chassis level or sagging in the centre with both wheels on the ground
Droop is the height difference between the main chassis and the rear pod, when the rear pod is drooping below the main chassis.

Also note, when you adjust droop, it may effect the pod sag and vise versa as described in Edwards video.


Hope this helps.