Associated RC 12 R5.2
#946
For removing the big wires I've found if you take side cutters and clip the wires off close to the solder tabs it takes far less heat and time to remove what is left. Trying to remove the wires in full generates a lot of unnecessary heat on the circuit board. Once removed TQ brand 16ga wire and TQ sensor wire are perfect to the motor as they flex very easily. TQ 1000 wire to the battery.
#947
#949
#950
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Build Help - Binding
I am about 1/3 of the way thru assembly and having significant issues with binding. Based on a general search of this (and other) threads, below are some rctech.net take-aways I have found. Any additional input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Rear, Step #2 Shock Assembly: The pivot ball (#4637) has significant binding in the shock eyelet.
Rear, Step #4 - Rear Links: The rear drag links, regardless of screw adjustment, bind on both ends. I found a post recommending the Yokomo YRX links as a replacement. Is this the generally accepted solution or should I be doing something with the stock parts?
Chassis, Step #4 - Side Spring Perches: The coils seem to rub the upper guide and lower trailing link to the point a 'clicking' sound is made as the coils snap into place during compression.
Front Bulkhead, Step #4: Everything: Literally. The kingpins (greased or not greased, lightly polished with 1500 grit), the ball ends, arms. I have a fluted ream on the way to (hopefully) help with some of this. The binding is far past the point I would expect 'normal running' break-in to alleviate the situation.
Again, thanks in advance.
Rear, Step #2 Shock Assembly: The pivot ball (#4637) has significant binding in the shock eyelet.
Rear, Step #4 - Rear Links: The rear drag links, regardless of screw adjustment, bind on both ends. I found a post recommending the Yokomo YRX links as a replacement. Is this the generally accepted solution or should I be doing something with the stock parts?
Chassis, Step #4 - Side Spring Perches: The coils seem to rub the upper guide and lower trailing link to the point a 'clicking' sound is made as the coils snap into place during compression.
Front Bulkhead, Step #4: Everything: Literally. The kingpins (greased or not greased, lightly polished with 1500 grit), the ball ends, arms. I have a fluted ream on the way to (hopefully) help with some of this. The binding is far past the point I would expect 'normal running' break-in to alleviate the situation.
Again, thanks in advance.
#951
I am about 1/3 of the way thru assembly and having significant issues with binding. Based on a general search of this (and other) threads, below are some rctech.net take-aways I have found. Any additional input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Rear, Step #2 Shock Assembly: The pivot ball (#4637) has significant binding in the shock eyelet.
Rear, Step #2 Shock Assembly: The pivot ball (#4637) has significant binding in the shock eyelet.
Install the links on the car and adjust the link screws so the link moves freely without feeling loose.
Front Bulkhead, Step #4: Everything: Literally. The kingpins (greased or not greased, lightly polished with 1500 grit), the ball ends, arms. I have a fluted ream on the way to (hopefully) help with some of this. The binding is far past the point I would expect 'normal running' break-in to alleviate the situation.
If the pivots are still tight, install the pivot balls and work the kingpins around in each pivot. They'll free up nicely.
#952
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
It is very common for the side links on most brands of pan car to fit too tightly on their pivot balls even without any pressure being applied by their little adjusting screws. To solve this binding, you'll need a way to spread the ends if the side links slightly. Speedmerchant sells a set of tiny little o-rings that fit into the little gap and act to push the ends open just enough so that they are sloppy on the pivot balls. Then you can use the little adjuster screws to pull the gap back closed just enough to yield minimum slop but with no binding either. Instead of SM's special tiny o-rings (which are hard to find) I purchased a short length of tiny silicone fuel line from my LHS, and then I slice off my own little silicone spacers with a sharp Xacto knife. My home made silicone side link spacers cost almost nothing and yet they work like a charm to spread the side link ends just enough so that they become lose on the pivot balls......allowing me to use the tiny side link adjusting screws for their intended purpose.
#953
Tech Initiate
Anyone know which chassis brace and shock mount upright used Kevin Hebert in WC-Beijing?
#954
It looks like a redrilled for inboard side springs, standard R5.2 cross brace and the second shock mount that came with the "Lipo" conversion kit. It is a three position shock mount for chassis mounting the antenna/ shock base. (P/N 4697)
Last edited by RacinJ; 09-05-2016 at 09:08 PM.
#955
These are awesome...no bind, easy to install...super smooth operation. Was a little confused at first, but after examining how the screws attach I saw that the 'offset' is to the outside. Any theories on why the offsetting helps so much (or seemingly so)?
#957
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Still working on assembly, thanks to all for the previous tips for freeing-up binding.
Now, next question.
As built <I hope> to the instructions, the pod at full droop (if I am using that term correctly) seems to have negative droop. This is to say, if you were to look at the plane of the chassis and pod from the side, it would look something like ______ / as opposed to flat (_____ _) or even positive droop (____ \).
Is this how the kit build is supposed to be? I asked someone at the track who runs a different model, and they said to simply unscrew the shock eyelet. Assuming that is the case, how much of a downward angle should the pod typically have from an even-level plane with the chassis plate?
Thanks in advance.
Now, next question.
As built <I hope> to the instructions, the pod at full droop (if I am using that term correctly) seems to have negative droop. This is to say, if you were to look at the plane of the chassis and pod from the side, it would look something like ______ / as opposed to flat (_____ _) or even positive droop (____ \).
Is this how the kit build is supposed to be? I asked someone at the track who runs a different model, and they said to simply unscrew the shock eyelet. Assuming that is the case, how much of a downward angle should the pod typically have from an even-level plane with the chassis plate?
Thanks in advance.
#958
Still working on assembly, thanks to all for the previous tips for freeing-up binding.
Now, next question.
As built <I hope> to the instructions, the pod at full droop (if I am using that term correctly) seems to have negative droop. This is to say, if you were to look at the plane of the chassis and pod from the side, it would look something like ______ / as opposed to flat (_____ _) or even positive droop (____ \).
Is this how the kit build is supposed to be? I asked someone at the track who runs a different model, and they said to simply unscrew the shock eyelet. Assuming that is the case, how much of a downward angle should the pod typically have from an even-level plane with the chassis plate?
Thanks in advance.
Now, next question.
As built <I hope> to the instructions, the pod at full droop (if I am using that term correctly) seems to have negative droop. This is to say, if you were to look at the plane of the chassis and pod from the side, it would look something like ______ / as opposed to flat (_____ _) or even positive droop (____ \).
Is this how the kit build is supposed to be? I asked someone at the track who runs a different model, and they said to simply unscrew the shock eyelet. Assuming that is the case, how much of a downward angle should the pod typically have from an even-level plane with the chassis plate?
Thanks in advance.
#959
Can someone please measure the height of the front shock mount point (at the centre of the pivot ball) from the chassis? I'm making a custom shock mount for mine, but it didn't come with the original mount.
#960
Tech Adept
Question about h
Hi i want to know were can buy an Asso RC125,2 kit for low price, and the store must send International because i am not from the United States .