Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Associated RC 12 R5.2 >

Associated RC 12 R5.2

Like Tree24Likes

Associated RC 12 R5.2

Old 08-11-2016, 05:34 AM
  #946  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
 
NomadRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Virginia
Posts: 205
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Racermac73 View Post
For removing the big wires I've found if you take side cutters and clip the wires off close to the solder tabs it takes far less heat and time to remove what is left. Trying to remove the wires in full generates a lot of unnecessary heat on the circuit board. Once removed TQ brand 16ga wire and TQ sensor wire are perfect to the motor as they flex very easily. TQ 1000 wire to the battery.
+1
NomadRacer is offline  
Old 08-14-2016, 07:00 AM
  #947  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
 
NomadRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Virginia
Posts: 205
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default Xenon Side Links

Any knowledge of using these side links?

http://xenon.ocnk.net/product/499
Attached Thumbnails Associated RC 12 R5.2-xenonsidelink.png  
NomadRacer is offline  
Old 08-14-2016, 03:10 PM
  #948  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Racermac73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Palmyra, Virginia
Posts: 2,043
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

They should work fine, Roche uses associated and those are a replacement for the roche
Racermac73 is offline  
Old 08-14-2016, 04:48 PM
  #949  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
 
NomadRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Virginia
Posts: 205
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Racermac73 View Post
They should work fine, Roche uses associated and those are a replacement for the roche
Sounds good. I have two sets of each type coming so if you want to try some, give me a shout
NomadRacer is offline  
Old 09-03-2016, 07:50 AM
  #950  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
gee-dub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Fontana, CA
Posts: 638
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Build Help - Binding

I am about 1/3 of the way thru assembly and having significant issues with binding. Based on a general search of this (and other) threads, below are some rctech.net take-aways I have found. Any additional input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Rear, Step #2 Shock Assembly: The pivot ball (#4637) has significant binding in the shock eyelet.

Rear, Step #4 - Rear Links: The rear drag links, regardless of screw adjustment, bind on both ends. I found a post recommending the Yokomo YRX links as a replacement. Is this the generally accepted solution or should I be doing something with the stock parts?

Chassis, Step #4 - Side Spring Perches: The coils seem to rub the upper guide and lower trailing link to the point a 'clicking' sound is made as the coils snap into place during compression.

Front Bulkhead, Step #4: Everything: Literally. The kingpins (greased or not greased, lightly polished with 1500 grit), the ball ends, arms. I have a fluted ream on the way to (hopefully) help with some of this. The binding is far past the point I would expect 'normal running' break-in to alleviate the situation.

Again, thanks in advance.
gee-dub is offline  
Old 09-03-2016, 08:19 AM
  #951  
Tech Fanatic
 
RacinJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Mesa Az
Posts: 845
Default

Originally Posted by gee-dub View Post
I am about 1/3 of the way thru assembly and having significant issues with binding. Based on a general search of this (and other) threads, below are some rctech.net take-aways I have found. Any additional input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Rear, Step #2 Shock Assembly: The pivot ball (#4637) has significant binding in the shock eyelet.
This may sound odd but it works for me. Slowly remove and reinstall the shock over the pivot ball until the binding is gone. You an also squeeze the outside of eyelet lightly with a pliers to help free it up.

Originally Posted by gee-dub View Post
Rear, Step #4 - Rear Links: The rear drag links, regardless of screw adjustment, bind on both ends. I found a post recommending the Yokomo YRX links as a replacement. Is this the generally accepted solution or should I be doing something with the stock parts?
Before installing the side links on the car, I install the pivot balls then tighten the screws until the the gap in the link is closed. After that I set the links aside for a day or two. Before installing the link on the car, I remove the screw completely and spread the gap with a flat screw driver. Spread the gap until the pivot ball is loose in the link.

Install the links on the car and adjust the link screws so the link moves freely without feeling loose.

Originally Posted by gee-dub View Post
Chassis, Step #4 - Side Spring Perches: The coils seem to rub the upper guide and lower trailing link to the point a 'clicking' sound is made as the coils snap into place during compression.
Compress the spring fully onto the perch. If you fell a click in the spring, slowly turn the spring clockwise until the "clicking" stops.

Originally Posted by gee-dub View Post
Front Bulkhead, Step #4: Everything: Literally. The kingpins (greased or not greased, lightly polished with 1500 grit), the ball ends, arms. I have a fluted ream on the way to (hopefully) help with some of this. The binding is far past the point I would expect 'normal running' break-in to alleviate the situation.
Heat your reamer with a lighter and ream the pivot balls. This works for me.

If the pivots are still tight, install the pivot balls and work the kingpins around in each pivot. They'll free up nicely.
RacinJ is offline  
Old 09-03-2016, 09:32 AM
  #952  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New Bern, N.C.
Posts: 1,575
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

It is very common for the side links on most brands of pan car to fit too tightly on their pivot balls even without any pressure being applied by their little adjusting screws. To solve this binding, you'll need a way to spread the ends if the side links slightly. Speedmerchant sells a set of tiny little o-rings that fit into the little gap and act to push the ends open just enough so that they are sloppy on the pivot balls. Then you can use the little adjuster screws to pull the gap back closed just enough to yield minimum slop but with no binding either. Instead of SM's special tiny o-rings (which are hard to find) I purchased a short length of tiny silicone fuel line from my LHS, and then I slice off my own little silicone spacers with a sharp Xacto knife. My home made silicone side link spacers cost almost nothing and yet they work like a charm to spread the side link ends just enough so that they become lose on the pivot balls......allowing me to use the tiny side link adjusting screws for their intended purpose.
vafactor is online now  
Old 09-05-2016, 04:04 PM
  #953  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 20
Default

Anyone know which chassis brace and shock mount upright used Kevin Hebert in WC-Beijing?
DomenL is offline  
Old 09-05-2016, 05:43 PM
  #954  
Tech Fanatic
 
RacinJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Mesa Az
Posts: 845
Default

Originally Posted by DomenL View Post
Anyone know which chassis brace and shock mount upright used Kevin Hebert in WC-Beijing?
It looks like a redrilled for inboard side springs, standard R5.2 cross brace and the second shock mount that came with the "Lipo" conversion kit. It is a three position shock mount for chassis mounting the antenna/ shock base. (P/N 4697)

Last edited by RacinJ; 09-05-2016 at 09:08 PM.
RacinJ is offline  
Old 09-05-2016, 07:35 PM
  #955  
Tech Regular
 
JeffofSpace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Seattle
Posts: 443
Default

Originally Posted by NomadRacer View Post
Sounds good. I have two sets of each type coming so if you want to try some, give me a shout
These are awesome...no bind, easy to install...super smooth operation. Was a little confused at first, but after examining how the screws attach I saw that the 'offset' is to the outside. Any theories on why the offsetting helps so much (or seemingly so)?
JeffofSpace is offline  
Old 09-09-2016, 07:31 PM
  #956  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
Fredp1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 376
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Kevin Hebert car at the worlds seemed to have the esc mounted forward.
Does anyone know of what the weight bias was?

What's would be an ideal weight bias front to back on low grip asphalt?

Do you run the battery across the car or in line?
Fredp1 is offline  
Old 09-18-2016, 07:47 PM
  #957  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
gee-dub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Fontana, CA
Posts: 638
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Still working on assembly, thanks to all for the previous tips for freeing-up binding.

Now, next question.

As built <I hope> to the instructions, the pod at full droop (if I am using that term correctly) seems to have negative droop. This is to say, if you were to look at the plane of the chassis and pod from the side, it would look something like ______ / as opposed to flat (_____ _) or even positive droop (____ \).

Is this how the kit build is supposed to be? I asked someone at the track who runs a different model, and they said to simply unscrew the shock eyelet. Assuming that is the case, how much of a downward angle should the pod typically have from an even-level plane with the chassis plate?

Thanks in advance.
gee-dub is offline  
Old 09-19-2016, 07:46 PM
  #958  
Tech Regular
 
JeffofSpace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Seattle
Posts: 443
Default

Originally Posted by gee-dub View Post
Still working on assembly, thanks to all for the previous tips for freeing-up binding.

Now, next question.

As built <I hope> to the instructions, the pod at full droop (if I am using that term correctly) seems to have negative droop. This is to say, if you were to look at the plane of the chassis and pod from the side, it would look something like ______ / as opposed to flat (_____ _) or even positive droop (____ \).

Is this how the kit build is supposed to be? I asked someone at the track who runs a different model, and they said to simply unscrew the shock eyelet. Assuming that is the case, how much of a downward angle should the pod typically have from an even-level plane with the chassis plate?

Thanks in advance.
Fully race ready the pod should decline downwards about 1mm or like 1 or 2 percent or so (from what I understand) when chassis is lifted up. When sat down on table the car should be level. Adjust shock length (blue aluminum bit covered by spring retainer). It sounds like your shock needs to be longer to achieve this.
JeffofSpace is offline  
Old 10-12-2016, 02:59 AM
  #959  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 605
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Can someone please measure the height of the front shock mount point (at the centre of the pivot ball) from the chassis? I'm making a custom shock mount for mine, but it didn't come with the original mount.
Scott_T is offline  
Old 10-17-2016, 05:16 AM
  #960  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Athens Greece
Posts: 116
Default Question about h

Hi i want to know were can buy an Asso RC125,2 kit for low price, and the store must send International because i am not from the United States .
drover is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.