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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-11-2013, 07:01 PM
  #7561  
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Originally Posted by jkirkwood
Those suspension holders allow you to adjust width and/or toe-in. Anti-squat is still adjusted via shims under the hangers. I put them on my car a few weeks ago and cannot fault their fit & finish at all. Here's a bit more information here. If I get time in the next few days I'll scan in the eccentrics chart they provide with the hangers.

Good luck with the new RB6.
Thanks for that and apologies again for missing the post on them.
I look forward to that info if you get the time.

I also look forward to getting this car on the track as I loved my 22 so I have high expectations on this car
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:00 PM
  #7562  
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Guys any reason not to go the full WC hog? Red pads, WC discs and all?
I run this setup in mod (lrp 8.5 boosted 23/76), I like it more then the avid. I like the direct feel of the wc setup compared to the softer more slip setup on the avid. I would like to try red avid pads but. Some of the guys I run with love the avid some like the kit or wc so it's personal preference.

But if your running anything slower then a 10.5 I would run the avid to use the smaller spurs. Keeping the motor up the ass of the gearbox is often over looked in stock.
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:13 PM
  #7563  
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Hi all, new to RCtech. I just bought an RB6 form pro shop futaba, should hopefully be here by next week. Trying to read through as much pages as possible but if anyone can save me some time. I would just like to know what parts need to be swapped out. I think I read the steering plate and steering arms should be switched for the aluminium ones. Is there anything else? Also looking at spending about $350 on a servo, motor and esc for open class any recommendations would be helpful.
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:33 PM
  #7564  
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I went with the Avid Triad slipper and Tekin RS gen2 with a gen2 motor. Can't go wrong with Tekin.

Rear Aluminum hubs are a plus as well.
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:50 PM
  #7565  
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Originally Posted by skengines
I went with the Avid Triad slipper and Tekin RS gen2 with a gen2 motor. Can't go wrong with Tekin.

Rear Aluminum hubs are a plus as well.
Thanks for the quick reply. did you go the 8.5turn tekin? and what gearing are you using?
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Old 07-13-2013, 10:24 PM
  #7566  
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I swapped out rear alum hangers RF, RR, with law32 delrin inserts; rear alum hubs; Exotek rear bulkhead. Alum steering would be good too. Cheers,
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:34 AM
  #7567  
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Originally Posted by Tom87
Have you tried the avid axles yet Ben? Is the rear width the same as standard kyosho wheel vers avid with pl, jc eats wheel?
I installed them on my car.

I just installed AKA wheels and the nut would not sit flush with the thread on the axle (too short). With the AVID axles there is not much more thread available. I'd say about 7 lines. Very easy install and quality product.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Brutelizer
Thanks for the quick reply. did you go the 8.5turn tekin? and what gearing are you using?
I'm running a 17.5 in mine.

Also I would get the 1.3X4 shock piston. Tapered of course. I ran the stock pistons and the car bottomed out way to easily. It didn't upset the car but the chassis slap wasn't good.

Car feels better with the 1.3 X4 piston as it provides more pack.
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:02 PM
  #7569  
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What is the purpose of using rb5 front axels and hexes?
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:13 PM
  #7570  
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Originally Posted by turtlebmx
What is the purpose of using rb5 front axels and hexes?
This has been covered many times, people run the rb5 front axles due to the fact that the hex is separate and deeper allowing you to run jconcepts and other various wheels that would otherwise rub in the spindle.
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:24 PM
  #7571  
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Thanks
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:56 PM
  #7572  
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Originally Posted by skengines
I'm running a 17.5 in mine.

Also I would get the 1.3X4 shock piston. Tapered of course. I ran the stock pistons and the car bottomed out way to easily. It didn't upset the car but the chassis slap wasn't good.

Car feels better with the 1.3 X4 piston as it provides more pack.
I am interested in this, what do the tapered ones do and what brand?
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Life_livin
This has been covered many times, people run the rb5 front axles due to the fact that the hex is separate and deeper allowing you to run jconcepts and other various wheels that would otherwise rub in the spindle.
Besides that don't have to worry about that little screw in the rear of stock 6 axles!
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:23 PM
  #7574  
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Where can I find the kyosho rear , rear motor aluminum suspension holder with the different incert pills. A main don't have it in stock and neither does Kyosho.
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:28 PM
  #7575  
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Originally Posted by Life_livin
This has been covered many times, people run the rb5 front axles due to the fact that the hex is separate and deeper allowing you to run jconcepts and other various wheels that would otherwise rub in the spindle.
That's interesting, I hadn't heard that before. I've been running plastic spacers for when I swap wheels back and forth with my B4. I'll have to get a set.
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