172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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05-11-2013, 06:14 AM
#6751
The rb6 is soooo much better. Because the 22's front wheels are so far forward, its almost impossible to lawn dart. The is the only thing I like about the 22. The rb6 wins in every other facet of handling. Out of the box changes? Exotek rack and probably exotek suspension hangers with delrin inserts. The rear camber block is not the strongest either. But there are a couple tricks, to make it last longer. I would say out of the box, the rb6 needs more upgrades than the 22. But "need" may be too strong of a word. More like suggested.
05-11-2013, 07:19 AM
#6752
The changes that you make on the RB6 are durability changes. plastic to alum.
The changes that you HAVE to make on the 22 are tuning changes (as well as durability). You need to get the alum bulkhead, brass kick plate (both for weight), different offset hex's, rear camber block stiffens the car up, exotech steering rack to add ackerman back into the car and get rid of the stupid slider, not to mention bleeder caps, and the +10mm battery brace.
Bottom line is in order to get a 22 up to 'team' specs, you are spending 150-200 on top of the kit. The RB6 is there out of the box and any upgrades you make are either bling or durability. That's why I always laugh when people say how expensive the RB6 is. The ONLY car that isn't expensive is the B4.2. Even the DEX210 requires a ton of crap added driving the cost up.
05-11-2013, 07:21 AM
#6753
I have someone at our local track with both an RB5 and an RB6 that is wanting to sell me one of them, my choice. He is offering me the RB6 for $100 more than the RB5. Is it worth spending the extra $100 on the RB6?
05-11-2013, 07:23 AM
#6754
Honestly I drove both the RB5 and the RB6 last night at our local track and I currently have a TLR 22 and the 22 drives like a tank compared to both of those buggies. Needless to say the 22 is getting shoved aside.
05-11-2013, 07:58 AM
#6756
Bob, I didnt do any of those upgrades on my 22 and it works fine and I used lead in the front to get the weight. you can fit almost 2oz in the front bulkhead of the 22. A lot of people have stated the the rb6 rack and rear hangers are weak. The rear camber block uses set screws to make it stronger. I also used a long stud and put a nut on the bottom to keep the stud from pulling out. I completely dislike DNF's and if you dont want the alum pirces, then you will need to buy a bunch of spares because your lhs probably wont have parts. I know some people think you need a bucket of spares to race, lol, but I never carry any. I like to buy as things break, keeps the costs down, because your spares are worthless when you sell. The rb6 rear plastic hangers are like $12 because you need to buy an entire tree of parts. I would get the alum ones for peace of mind. If you break 2 rear plastic hangers, you could have just got aluminum. The rb6 hands down is the best handling buggy on the the market. Its only downside is price. The a-arms and mosr of the plastic is not too bad, but anything aluminum from kyosho requires you to sell a child. but luckily exotek, yaiba and strc are making parts for the car.
05-11-2013, 08:15 AM
#6757
The rb6 is soooo much better. Because the 22's front wheels are so far forward, its almost impossible to lawn dart. The is the only thing I like about the 22. The rb6 wins in every other facet of handling. Out of the box changes? Exotek rack and probably exotek suspension hangers with delrin inserts. The rear camber block is not the strongest either. But there are a couple tricks, to make it last longer. I would say out of the box, the rb6 needs more upgrades than the 22. But "need" may be too strong of a word. More like suggested.
05-11-2013, 08:19 AM
#6758
OH an also, saw on ebay. $399 for the rb6. I believe it is Speedtechrc selling em. A great hobby shop. Jeff a real good guy.
05-11-2013, 08:24 AM
#6759
If you have the money to spend, then the rb6 is definitely worth it. I was not knocking the car, as I do believe its the best. And when it comes to upgrades, "need" is very subjective. I "need" to finish races, so I think I need certain upgrades because I have no local parts support. If you are running 17.5 blinky, the alum will only add weight and you might want to try and stay with plastic. Someone told me that the delrin inserts help keep the breaking down on the plastic hangers. I have not broken a hanger with them in, but its only been a few weeks. But its like a $5 upgrade, so why not, lol.
05-11-2013, 08:47 AM
#6760
I have saved more money by switching to the rb6. Not replacing worn or broken parts. I love when people say they want one but complain about the price.... Lol. You get what you pay for 
.
.
05-11-2013, 09:30 AM
#6761
Bob, I didnt do any of those upgrades on my 22 and it works fine and I used lead in the front to get the weight. you can fit almost 2oz in the front bulkhead of the 22. A lot of people have stated the the rb6 rack and rear hangers are weak. The rear camber block uses set screws to make it stronger. I also used a long stud and put a nut on the bottom to keep the stud from pulling out. I completely dislike DNF's and if you dont want the alum pirces, then you will need to buy a bunch of spares because your lhs probably wont have parts. I know some people think you need a bucket of spares to race, lol, but I never carry any. I like to buy as things break, keeps the costs down, because your spares are worthless when you sell. The rb6 rear plastic hangers are like $12 because you need to buy an entire tree of parts. I would get the alum ones for peace of mind. If you break 2 rear plastic hangers, you could have just got aluminum. The rb6 hands down is the best handling buggy on the the market. Its only downside is price. The a-arms and mosr of the plastic is not too bad, but anything aluminum from kyosho requires you to sell a child. but luckily exotek, yaiba and strc are making parts for the car.
(sorry had to put my 2 cents in)
05-11-2013, 09:43 AM
#6762
LOL You didn't do any of those upgrades to your 22 and you wonder why it handles like a bulldozer.
And as I said, you replace KY parts for durability, not performance. 22 you replace parts TO GET performance...the durability is a byproduct.
oh and fwiw, I still have a plastic steering rack, although I will get the Kyosho gunmetal one when it's back in stock
bottom line is that once you are ready to invest 500+ in a RC Car to race it, you need to no longer consider the $ aspect. Either spend the money and race it, or shut up about it and don't. Like I told Fred, I was going to cheap out on a specific part but then I would feel like I was putting a plastic hubcap on a new Bentley. If I want cheap racing, I'll go run Short Course
And as I said, you replace KY parts for durability, not performance. 22 you replace parts TO GET performance...the durability is a byproduct.
oh and fwiw, I still have a plastic steering rack, although I will get the Kyosho gunmetal one when it's back in stock
bottom line is that once you are ready to invest 500+ in a RC Car to race it, you need to no longer consider the $ aspect. Either spend the money and race it, or shut up about it and don't. Like I told Fred, I was going to cheap out on a specific part but then I would feel like I was putting a plastic hubcap on a new Bentley. If I want cheap racing, I'll go run Short Course
05-11-2013, 04:04 PM
#6763
My car is super competitive with all stock plastic parts. I have not broken a rack...rear hanger or any part yet. The key is to try and go race by race without a major crash. I don't lawn dart or land on the back motor plate and I don't hit 90 degree pipes....stay away from them. I race with Dias and all the cast guys at west coast and ocrc....so lots of competition each night.
05-11-2013, 05:07 PM
#6765
Tech Adept
I have to chime in.
I own a lot of 2wd and even if I was not interested at all by Kyosho cars when I get back to the hobby I went naturally to them because the plastic are just great, harldly broke, and because just about every aspect of the car seems very well thought out.
Ballcups never came off (unless a very big crash where another brand of car would have broke wishbones and caster blocks), diffs are the best by far (I run a diff 6 months with a Bfast kit) and shocks are just great.
I race 13.5 boosted so transmission got hit pretty hard on high grip.
So RB6. Just awesome. Since July I broke a front shock tower, a mid rear bulkhead (at the ball end location) and one front wishbone. Got a thread gone on a caster block but I used a too short ball end.
I'm not gentle at all, got a lot of crashes and our club track got a triple jump that is a car breaker.
10 months of very hard use, beside a very hard crash that cost me the rear bulkhead (used on the shortest position, that explain it a bit) and a friend running the car and hit the pipe metal hook at full speed costing me a wishbone I'm looking at a shock tower I broke two days ago. Extremely sturdy.
That means a huge price on parts I didn't have to buy so I'm seriously thinking this car price is rather competitive in the long therm.
Options parts.
I put Lunsford turnbuckles and screws from a previous car RB5 based as well as a set of Boca orange but other than that I race it stock (mid motor).
For my style of driving, alloy steering rack was a must (I broke twice the plastic one at the same race, never had issues after using the Exotek one).
I put old blue alloy hubs from my older K car, might have broke once a ball end thread.
That would be about it if budget is a concern.
I noticed quite some slop from the plastic rear hangers using metal bushing and put some delrin one and it was way better, still is.
Any car needs some slop, at least offroad cars. I noticed right from the build that Kyosho really improve their part fitment over the 5 series, just the right amount of slop.
I have to say the rear/rear hanger in rear motor format isn't as strong as expected so I might advise for that part if you run rear motor.
I did tweak the front hinge pins holder and bent the front brace. Went for an alloy block from Ghea and a custom machined brace.
Considering how happy I am with the car, I'm planning to add more options parts from Kyosho as I have to say they offered the least they could do in the kit. Plastic hangers, plastic steering, plastic hubs, rather thin non ventilated motor plate,... But I will be happy to buy those upgrades parts as I just love the car.
Handling wise, the mid motor car is just amazing, up to the best conversion offered for rear motors cars and that was very hard to nail.
Rear motor is more conventional but yet I felt very comfortable running the car the few times I did. Will do more as we have some races on dirt but I do believe the car is up to the best here too.
Three points to check after 10 months :
- Some wear on diff outdrives and CVD
- Rear plastic blocks slope (might have been too much use of metal bushing)
- Steering parts got some serious slop, mainly due to not shim the Exotek plate and wear from alloy to alloy friction (bushings/plate)
Now I'm eager to see what they could do on the ZX6 !
I own a lot of 2wd and even if I was not interested at all by Kyosho cars when I get back to the hobby I went naturally to them because the plastic are just great, harldly broke, and because just about every aspect of the car seems very well thought out.
Ballcups never came off (unless a very big crash where another brand of car would have broke wishbones and caster blocks), diffs are the best by far (I run a diff 6 months with a Bfast kit) and shocks are just great.
I race 13.5 boosted so transmission got hit pretty hard on high grip.
So RB6. Just awesome. Since July I broke a front shock tower, a mid rear bulkhead (at the ball end location) and one front wishbone. Got a thread gone on a caster block but I used a too short ball end.
I'm not gentle at all, got a lot of crashes and our club track got a triple jump that is a car breaker.
10 months of very hard use, beside a very hard crash that cost me the rear bulkhead (used on the shortest position, that explain it a bit) and a friend running the car and hit the pipe metal hook at full speed costing me a wishbone I'm looking at a shock tower I broke two days ago. Extremely sturdy.
That means a huge price on parts I didn't have to buy so I'm seriously thinking this car price is rather competitive in the long therm.
Options parts.
I put Lunsford turnbuckles and screws from a previous car RB5 based as well as a set of Boca orange but other than that I race it stock (mid motor).
For my style of driving, alloy steering rack was a must (I broke twice the plastic one at the same race, never had issues after using the Exotek one).
I put old blue alloy hubs from my older K car, might have broke once a ball end thread.
That would be about it if budget is a concern.
I noticed quite some slop from the plastic rear hangers using metal bushing and put some delrin one and it was way better, still is.
Any car needs some slop, at least offroad cars. I noticed right from the build that Kyosho really improve their part fitment over the 5 series, just the right amount of slop.
I have to say the rear/rear hanger in rear motor format isn't as strong as expected so I might advise for that part if you run rear motor.
I did tweak the front hinge pins holder and bent the front brace. Went for an alloy block from Ghea and a custom machined brace.
Considering how happy I am with the car, I'm planning to add more options parts from Kyosho as I have to say they offered the least they could do in the kit. Plastic hangers, plastic steering, plastic hubs, rather thin non ventilated motor plate,... But I will be happy to buy those upgrades parts as I just love the car.
Handling wise, the mid motor car is just amazing, up to the best conversion offered for rear motors cars and that was very hard to nail.
Rear motor is more conventional but yet I felt very comfortable running the car the few times I did. Will do more as we have some races on dirt but I do believe the car is up to the best here too.
Three points to check after 10 months :
- Some wear on diff outdrives and CVD
- Rear plastic blocks slope (might have been too much use of metal bushing)
- Steering parts got some serious slop, mainly due to not shim the Exotek plate and wear from alloy to alloy friction (bushings/plate)
Now I'm eager to see what they could do on the ZX6 !
Last edited by mojo tom; 05-11-2013 at 05:19 PM.