Shock setup ??'s for 1/8 buggy
#1
Shock setup ??'s for 1/8 buggy
I have a Hyper 7 PCR buggy I just picked up after a 7 year absence from nitro. Great buggy, just the suspension seems way too soft. Its amazing how things have changed.
What weight oil comes from the factory and what weight do you recommend, (front/rear) and what springs to use. I do have a local track that I will be running on, so it wont be a "parking lot bandit". Any info would be great. Thanks
Schlep
What weight oil comes from the factory and what weight do you recommend, (front/rear) and what springs to use. I do have a local track that I will be running on, so it wont be a "parking lot bandit". Any info would be great. Thanks
Schlep
#2
If you're unfamiliar with modern setups, you'll be suprised by just how soft 1/8th scales like to run. They're so heavy that it's impossible to stop them from bottoming on anything more then medium jumps. It's better to set them up to handle the best that they can when on the ground. Try Ofna's website and search for setup sheets. They will have setups used by Paul Coleman among others and these should be good starting points for running at a track.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
#3
I would definitely check out the setup sheets at Ofna.
In my Storm, I run 37.5 all around.
In my Storm, I run 37.5 all around.
#4
Tech Apprentice
Schlep,
I am also new to nitro coming from on road elect. One thing that read on another thread that was said by Aaron Waldron (I believe it was him...if not I apoligize) was that he thought of the underside of the chassis as the 5th shock absorber...after my 1st run, I knew exactly what he meant.
I am also new to nitro coming from on road elect. One thing that read on another thread that was said by Aaron Waldron (I believe it was him...if not I apoligize) was that he thought of the underside of the chassis as the 5th shock absorber...after my 1st run, I knew exactly what he meant.
#5
I have several setup sheets that came with the buggy, but I cant find any that are complete. All the ones I see are blank. Ill try to do another search for Paul's setup.
I havent been to the track with this thing yet, maybe I should give it a try in the stock trim and see how it performs. I am amazed at how low this buggy sets.
Thanks for the feedback guys,look forward to learning from you all.
Schlep
I havent been to the track with this thing yet, maybe I should give it a try in the stock trim and see how it performs. I am amazed at how low this buggy sets.
Thanks for the feedback guys,look forward to learning from you all.
Schlep
#6
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
this is a link to the starting grid ofna section. their should be some setups in there if not just ask many pros post on this site.
http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/bac...howforgotten=2
http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/bac...howforgotten=2
#7
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
I found a setup that josh wheeler uses.
1602 of 3489 by Dave Wheeler (wheelers) on Thu May 13 22:01:57 2004:
I do not know how to do that so get a sheet and I will list the boxes
I checked
Front suspension
toe angle o
ride height little above level using the dog bones
rebound height full travel
caster 22 degree
sway bar 2.5
shock tower top hole 2
upper arm hole 2
shock bottom inside hole
ackerman arm B hole
I run the sway bar pretty loose
0 degree camber
blue springs
1.4 pistons 60 weight
diff spider 2000 75 full
center diff 7000 standard
Rear of car
3 degree toe in
ride height a little above level
camber 2 degree
rebound full travel
sway bar 2.8 tight
shock tower top 5 hole
shock bottom inside hole
upper arm inner 2 hole
upper arm outer 2 hole
run a short chassic with spacers in the rear to be as short as
possible (Good rear bite )
wing flat
diff 3000 standard
The key I think to the progress we have made is we have installed
aluminun dog boned center and rear
That seemed to make the car more responsive. This buggy has great
steering and awesome rear bite on a loose track. I think we got the
best rear bite of any car and still no push Let your sway bars work,
move them around based on traction If you let the car roll then the sway
bars kick in and the car squats real good and becomes extremely stable
in the turns This set up works with Josh and Justin, I do not know if
all driving styles will like it Go for it
1602 of 3489 by Dave Wheeler (wheelers) on Thu May 13 22:01:57 2004:
I do not know how to do that so get a sheet and I will list the boxes
I checked
Front suspension
toe angle o
ride height little above level using the dog bones
rebound height full travel
caster 22 degree
sway bar 2.5
shock tower top hole 2
upper arm hole 2
shock bottom inside hole
ackerman arm B hole
I run the sway bar pretty loose
0 degree camber
blue springs
1.4 pistons 60 weight
diff spider 2000 75 full
center diff 7000 standard
Rear of car
3 degree toe in
ride height a little above level
camber 2 degree
rebound full travel
sway bar 2.8 tight
shock tower top 5 hole
shock bottom inside hole
upper arm inner 2 hole
upper arm outer 2 hole
run a short chassic with spacers in the rear to be as short as
possible (Good rear bite )
wing flat
diff 3000 standard
The key I think to the progress we have made is we have installed
aluminun dog boned center and rear
That seemed to make the car more responsive. This buggy has great
steering and awesome rear bite on a loose track. I think we got the
best rear bite of any car and still no push Let your sway bars work,
move them around based on traction If you let the car roll then the sway
bars kick in and the car squats real good and becomes extremely stable
in the turns This set up works with Josh and Justin, I do not know if
all driving styles will like it Go for it
#8
That is the first setup that I've seen where the front diff has lighter weight fluid then the rear (common is 5000ft, 7000ctr, 1 or 2000rr).
I don't run a Hyper, they could be different.
I don't run a Hyper, they could be different.
#9
fyredup - That was me!
You're never going to stop the car from bottoming out (unless you down-side every jump). Trying to fight this tendency will cause more harm than good. Tune your suspension for good handling and let the chassis thump the ground once in a while..haha.
You're never going to stop the car from bottoming out (unless you down-side every jump). Trying to fight this tendency will cause more harm than good. Tune your suspension for good handling and let the chassis thump the ground once in a while..haha.