aarcobra

iTrader: (12)

You might as well get the higher optioned kits. The shock looks to be about $35.00 and the wheels and tires are $28.00. Then you still have a Ferrari body like many (most?) will have. The diff and motor mounts add another $55.00. You still don't have all the goodies and have spent around $300.00!!
(For ref. the Pro is $250 and the AYTBR 1X is $280)

My only point, now, and from the beginning, is that the class needs to be more open. Spec classes are fine, but should be cheap and highly restricted. Opening the class up to all f104 varients that are 180mm wide creates a mess. FGP vs, graphite, plastic vs. aluminum, good shocks vs. cheap shocks etc. You may be correct that the other stuff doesn't really matter, but that won't be the preception. You might as well only allow the Ferrarri and call it FOIROC! Just paint 'em different weird colors like pink, purple, and pale yellow. ;-)

Please don't take offence to my replys, I just don't think the Toledo guys are seeing the whole picture. The rules allowing both a "realistic" and "performance" class solves many of the problems.

good racing,
Ned

aarcobra

iTrader: (12)

Missed the "modern" But that still leaves only three Tamiya bodies and a handful of "other". Does anyone in the USA stock the other bodies, or do you have to go to Asia? What about the actual width of the cars? I see 180mm, 183mm, and 187mm widths listed for Modern F1's. What do you need to do to get the widths down to 180mm (assuming they are over 180mm)?

Thanks for the info,
Ned

Vector03cobra

iTrader: (11)

Width seem to be controlled by.

Wheels, Rear hubs, front arms.

Does anyone sell the flexi cheater front wing?

Vector03cobra

iTrader: (11)

Ned, I know this is your favorit thread on RC tech

aarcobra

iTrader: (12)

Zuke-You are probably right! As I've said before, I'm basically jealous. I want to race the "weird" stuff and right now things are dead around here except for SCT.

See ya next weekend!

aarcobra

iTrader: (12)

Pan cars are pretty simple and narrowing the rear (if it is even necessary!) might just be removing some spacers. That might get complicated on the diff side as sometimes there aren't any/or enough. On the front I can't think of anything except the wheel width that would change it (except the front arms, but i assume all the "modern" chassis use the same parts).

I hope someone that has actually messed with these cars will clarify what the situation on width actually entails.

If there's a "cheater wing" I'm sure you have it!!!! lol

Ned

Dasmopar

I think the retro cars come with grooved rubber tires that are wider in the rear and the fronts might be different also but the front arms are wider also. I think someone called it a 130.5 when you add the narrow arms to the 103 qand then it is 180mm wide.

The tires that come in the kit are not a factor as they are all wrong. The rubber tires that come in the kit won't be the "good" rubber tires you will need to compete.

Dasmopar

The GP1 class is aimed at more experienced racers. Competition electronics are permitted and it was felt that the cars should be as true to life/scale as possible. Therefore it was decided that only cars resembling modern F1 cars should be allowed. These are basically the Tamiya F104 and HPI F10; both of which have narrower track width, narrower tyres and larger wheels than the older cars, as in real life.

Stolen from a different wibsite.

Dasmopar

Tamiya f104 pro


Tamiya f103 .

You can see the width of the rear tires is much wider on the 103.

Dasmopar

F103 VS F104

Dasmopar

I have great news for you Ned ! The F104X1 doesn't have disk damper type suspension. It has a Dampner tube! I know you are now searching the web over for a F104X1 but they are not out yet so you will have to wait till July to order yours.

Like I said before I'm sure any F1 car that shows up to race can race but won't be awarded any championship points which will not matter to a guy who is going to make 1 or maybe 2 races for the whole year. No extra entry fee or marshalling duties. lol

CR0SS

iTrader: (5)

Or you can get the Exotek chassis and eliminate the t-bar too.

robk

iTrader: (22)

All the graphite stuff is not needed for rubber tire, in fact it probably hurts performance. Also, the pro body is not the best because of the rear wing, which is small/low. The wings don't make a huge difference, but a lot of guys have noticed it's not as good. You may also take notice that only the black pro special comes with the aluminum motor mount, not the regular "blue" pro. You really have to get the black car to get all the aluminum stuff.

Not to mention any of these cars will need a set of tires for rubber on carpet, as the tamiya rubber is no good on carpet (pro cars come with foam, but we are talking rubber here). If racing on asphalt, a pair of the option rears is all you need for your Ferrari, and they can be had for under $10 a pair.

Again, i said you could be racing with the tires and the shock. The other stuff is nice but not 100% necessary. In fact one TCS F1 veteran told me he thought the plastic diff was better as it was lighter. Go figure...

Also, the Mclaren is the same kit, different body. A set of decals also does nicely to differentiate the cars.

As far as what these guys do, at this point it's up to them. I was just pointing out that you can get into the cars for a small sum, and be competitive.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Wide car = 103 rims and tires, 103 front end. The tires have a greater offset and width. The axle/diff is exactly the same. 103 front end is wider.

Narrow= 104 rims and tires, 104 front end

You can actually make a narrow 103 or other "Tamiya base" car with the correct 104 parts.

aarcobra

iTrader: (12)

Your last line says it "As far as what these guys do, at this point it's up to them." I was jsut pointing out that you can get into these cars for consideribly less if you allow more options in equipment and less money would mean more entries.

Ned