300LikesTeam Associated TC4
07-26-2005, 10:26 AM
#5791
I noticed that the pins on my front drive shafts were wearing severly when I put the spool in. I only had about 3 runs this past Saturday, just wanted some practice, granted one was with a 9 turn. Also noticed the outdrives on the spool were a little oblong now. Is this normal for a spool and what can I do to prevent it. Im not used to this coming from Blades on the MI2.
07-26-2005, 11:19 AM
#5793
Originally Posted by BlackKat
How thick are the shims underneath the camber link? And how thick are the shims for underneath the pivot blocks? (the setup sheet leaves me to believe there seperate square, circle, triangle and X shims?...how do you tell the difference? are they just shaped differently)
07-26-2005, 11:36 AM
#5794
Originally Posted by BlackKat
Anyone?
Last edited by ml; 07-26-2005 at 02:53 PM. Reason: Corrected thickness
07-26-2005, 02:11 PM
#5795
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I know that somewhere I saw people talking about the square spur gear adapter. Im thinking of grabbing that and the drive shaft. Is the driveshaft considerably lighter than the stock one or should hold off on that.
I also have the out drive cups as well.
07-26-2005, 02:14 PM
#5796
Like ml said . . .but just for claification, the circular washers that go under the camber links are .030" each. I dont have a caliper to check the plastic shims that go under each arem mount block, but after looking at them and eyeballing it it appears that ml is correct .030 also. The shims are all interchgangeable between the O, X, [], and /\ blocks. You can just count the number of tabs on them. For example, three shims with one tab is the same thickness as one shim with three tabs. hpo that helps
@ racenut and john bull, Thaks for the great out of the box thinking. Ive got a new set of out drives that I will swap out. It looks like the outdrives are worn some but it seems to be a similar amount of wear on each side. Ill see. Thanks again to all who've put thought into this.
Andrew
@ racenut and john bull, Thaks for the great out of the box thinking. Ive got a new set of out drives that I will swap out. It looks like the outdrives are worn some but it seems to be a similar amount of wear on each side. Ill see. Thanks again to all who've put thought into this.
Andrew
07-26-2005, 03:10 PM
#5800
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
If Im not mistaken each notch on the shim represents 25 thousandths. so if you have a 2 and a 1 would make 75 thousandths.
07-26-2005, 05:12 PM
#5801
So, On the Accociated Team Driver setup sheets....Where 2 shims are used I can use one shim with two tabs instead....correct?
07-26-2005, 08:44 PM
#5804
Tweak Station vs Scales
Is there any reason I should consider using four scales to setup my car as opposed to a tweak board? I think I have finally narrowed my pulling problem from above down to tweak. I just dont have an acurate way of measuring it (I cant seem to get it right with the razor blade deal)
Andrew
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ghlight=scales
http://www.niftech.com/pix/cat/tweakboard.jpg
Andrew
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ghlight=scales
http://www.niftech.com/pix/cat/tweakboard.jpg
07-27-2005, 12:46 AM
#5805
ARM MOUNT SHIMS. I have played with different shims and found the #2 shim (50 thou) all round best so far on the TC4. It seems to be the easiest to drive.
However I haven't finished yet .... because:
The best set up on my Yoke BD is with 1mm more spacing under the front mounts than the rear, so that's certainly something I will be trying with the TC4. I also haven't got down to playing with anti dive etc so on both TC4 and Yoke BD I am presently running both front and rear flat.
Incidentally I am presently running both TC4s with BMI chassis, but they seem to be working well with the same set ups I had on the tub versions.
ANDREW D. I have always used a tweek station to balance out our cars. I presently have the Fastrax one from CML. It is exactly the same as the Integy and others but lots cheaper, and works with a lazer beam. I've seen some at twice the price, but they don't do anything the Fastrax one doesn't.
However I haven't finished yet .... because:
The best set up on my Yoke BD is with 1mm more spacing under the front mounts than the rear, so that's certainly something I will be trying with the TC4. I also haven't got down to playing with anti dive etc so on both TC4 and Yoke BD I am presently running both front and rear flat.
Incidentally I am presently running both TC4s with BMI chassis, but they seem to be working well with the same set ups I had on the tub versions.
ANDREW D. I have always used a tweek station to balance out our cars. I presently have the Fastrax one from CML. It is exactly the same as the Integy and others but lots cheaper, and works with a lazer beam. I've seen some at twice the price, but they don't do anything the Fastrax one doesn't.