Team Corally RDX Touring Car
#7156
Tech Elite
iTrader: (161)
Originally Posted by rcdougie
Tape the Lipo pack to the battery strap. That way you can still remove it from the car.
#7158
Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE
For the cobalt, I run a 35/116 pinion/spur combo. As for the monster, I usually start out at 32/116. Alot of your gearing will also depend on how your track is laid out, how long the straight-a-way is, etc. Find out what your local guys are doing for your local track as far as gearing and rollout, and go from there. Oh, and with the gearing on the cobalt I just mentioned, it's rolling out around 30 with 63 mm (rubber) tires. Hope this helps.
Thanks
#7160
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by Jason B
Is the RDX still shipped with the 48p/78T spur gear? If it does, should a larger spur be a priority?
Thanks
Thanks
Originally Posted by josh short
yes it does come with 78t/48p not sure if you need bigger gear or not going to try the 78t this weekend
im looking at kt hobbies online does the RW spur gear fit the RDX?????
im looking at kt hobbies online does the RW spur gear fit the RDX?????
#7161
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Right people from across the pond, im needing your help.
My problem seems to be "tramping" of the front tyres, i race on a tight indoor carpet track (8 sec laps) in 27 stock
I am running Vtec 24r pre glues (control tyre)
FRONT
diff
shocks 3rd hole from outside
top link top row, 2 in
80w oil
19lb springs
Med ackerman
low roll centres with front one turned for kick up (not ultra low)
1.9 roll bar
tried all wheel bases
0 toe in
REAR
diff
shocks 2nd hole from outside
top link bottom row 3rd in
40w oil
17lb springs
low roll centres (not ultra low)
1.9 roll bar
1.5 toe in
tried all wheel bases
I did have some mid corner hooking and raising the front link sorted that... in an ideal world im looking for more higher speed turn in....without hooking, but to keep my power on steering.
i think that covers it LOL
Thanks
My problem seems to be "tramping" of the front tyres, i race on a tight indoor carpet track (8 sec laps) in 27 stock
I am running Vtec 24r pre glues (control tyre)
FRONT
diff
shocks 3rd hole from outside
top link top row, 2 in
80w oil
19lb springs
Med ackerman
low roll centres with front one turned for kick up (not ultra low)
1.9 roll bar
tried all wheel bases
0 toe in
REAR
diff
shocks 2nd hole from outside
top link bottom row 3rd in
40w oil
17lb springs
low roll centres (not ultra low)
1.9 roll bar
1.5 toe in
tried all wheel bases
I did have some mid corner hooking and raising the front link sorted that... in an ideal world im looking for more higher speed turn in....without hooking, but to keep my power on steering.
i think that covers it LOL
Thanks
#7162
Originally Posted by LasagnaCat
Anyone have a safe (and secure, and girlfriend-proof) way of fitting an Orion lipo pack into an RDX? I know the battery posts can be shimmed to clamp the pack down to the deck as pictured earlier in the thread, but that's not going (imho) to prevent lateral movement. Looking for some alternative other than Shoe Goo'ing battery straps to the lipos, which would work but would be costly buying either more packs or more straps. Also, as-is the fit is so tight that the top of the battery strap is this/close to binding on the bottom of the upper deck.
Suggestions (with pics?) appreciated.
Suggestions (with pics?) appreciated.
No pics, but this is what i have been doing and it seems to work the best - not perfect yet but i am tinkering with a few ideas. On the stock chassis it seems to have a slot cut out for the tape - but the other side does not, but the other side does have a hole drilled that is ALMOST parallel to the "tape slot" - so what i did was dremel out the hole so i could fit some tape through it. These two slots are a little to long to fit the 4800 w/o having some "play" back and forth. Since you have to add some weight for the Lipo to balance the car, i placed a few bars on the very end of the battery to "make it longer" so there is no play back and forth. I then strap it up and it works pretty dang good - it still has a little lateral movement, but it is alot stronger than just using the strap.
here is a visual so you can kinda see what i am talking about
I am wanting to find something that i can place on the bottom of the battery to keep it from sliding back and forth - i was thinking the lining you use for your kitchen cabinets, but that is going to be too thick - i thought about 2 sided tape, but i want to be able to take my battery in and out with ease...
hope that helps
#7163
Originally Posted by BrianH28
Seconded: Should I cut the blue wire on my Novak speed controller and 4.5 motor? Or should I gear down. I’m running 105/30. 7.0 roll out.
Thanks for any advice….
Thanks for any advice….
Jeff
#7165
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
*******My problem seems to be "tramping" of the front tyres, i race on a tight indoor carpet track (8 sec laps) in 27 stock*******
By tramping, i mean juddering.....seems like the front tyre is wanting to roll over its self........
Hard to explain.......if it was on the rear i would say the rear shocks are too stiff........:S heeeeeeeeeelp lol
By tramping, i mean juddering.....seems like the front tyre is wanting to roll over its self........
Hard to explain.......if it was on the rear i would say the rear shocks are too stiff........:S heeeeeeeeeelp lol
#7166
so your car is running like on 3 wheel??? front left wheel or rigth wheel is lifting above the ground??? it sa that your problem???
#7168
Tech Elite
iTrader: (161)
Originally Posted by rcdougie
Ok, how about 2 sided tape to the battery strap then reinforce it with a few wraps of strapping tape. I did that to my Pro4 and its plenty strong.
Now if we had a milled out chassis made without battery slots but with a recessed area that the lipo fit down in...
#7169
Just wondering if anyone knows the exact spacing needed in the front arms to make the the rear and front the same width?
Cheers
Scott
Cheers
Scott