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Old 04-25-2006, 10:16 PM   #7156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcdougie
Tape the Lipo pack to the battery strap. That way you can still remove it from the car.
Thanks for the suggestion, but that would fail the girlfriend-proof requirement - that why I didn't include that as an option in the first post. She *won't* tape it herself, nor do I think she'd do a proper job of checking the tape between runs (I'm of course designated mechanic, fixer, and all things other than driver. lol) I also don't trust anything involving tape when it comes to running a lipo/brushless combo on a decent sized tracks - any impacts could be BIG and lateral impacts could be an issue if the car goes airborne. I could of course do that and just 'babysit' her car and battery and tape every time, but that will get old. Thought about running a bead of Shoe Goo down the chassis on each side of the pack, or using the Corally weights in front and back of it to keep it from twisting.. just hoping I'm missing some really obvious bulletproof way to mount it. The lipo packs just drop in the offroad stuff, which can spoil a person.. and possibly spoil a person to the point where they'd just run offroad over the summer. Starting to REALLY dislike having to fiddle with nimh packs.
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Old 04-26-2006, 12:28 AM   #7157
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Ok, how about 2 sided tape to the battery strap then reinforce it with a few wraps of strapping tape. I did that to my Pro4 and its plenty strong.
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Old 04-26-2006, 06:32 AM   #7158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE
For the cobalt, I run a 35/116 pinion/spur combo. As for the monster, I usually start out at 32/116. Alot of your gearing will also depend on how your track is laid out, how long the straight-a-way is, etc. Find out what your local guys are doing for your local track as far as gearing and rollout, and go from there. Oh, and with the gearing on the cobalt I just mentioned, it's rolling out around 30 with 63 mm (rubber) tires. Hope this helps.
Is the RDX still shipped with the 48p/78T spur gear? If it does, should a larger spur be a priority?

Thanks
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Old 04-26-2006, 06:38 AM   #7159
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yes it does come with 78t/48p not sure if you need bigger gear or not going to try the 78t this weekend


im looking at kt hobbies online does the RW spur gear fit the RDX?????
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:12 AM   #7160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason B
Is the RDX still shipped with the 48p/78T spur gear? If it does, should a larger spur be a priority?

Thanks
Yes it does. I personally prefer a larger 64p gear...110-115.

Quote:
Originally Posted by josh short
yes it does come with 78t/48p not sure if you need bigger gear or not going to try the 78t this weekend


im looking at kt hobbies online does the RW spur gear fit the RDX?????
Yes the RW gears (64P) that Kraig carries do fit the RDX.
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Old 04-26-2006, 08:30 AM   #7161
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Right people from across the pond, im needing your help.


My problem seems to be "tramping" of the front tyres, i race on a tight indoor carpet track (8 sec laps) in 27 stock

I am running Vtec 24r pre glues (control tyre)


FRONT
diff
shocks 3rd hole from outside
top link top row, 2 in
80w oil
19lb springs
Med ackerman
low roll centres with front one turned for kick up (not ultra low)
1.9 roll bar
tried all wheel bases
0 toe in


REAR
diff
shocks 2nd hole from outside
top link bottom row 3rd in
40w oil
17lb springs
low roll centres (not ultra low)
1.9 roll bar
1.5 toe in
tried all wheel bases

I did have some mid corner hooking and raising the front link sorted that... in an ideal world im looking for more higher speed turn in....without hooking, but to keep my power on steering.

i think that covers it LOL

Thanks
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Old 04-26-2006, 09:03 AM   #7162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasagnaCat
Anyone have a safe (and secure, and girlfriend-proof) way of fitting an Orion lipo pack into an RDX? I know the battery posts can be shimmed to clamp the pack down to the deck as pictured earlier in the thread, but that's not going (imho) to prevent lateral movement. Looking for some alternative other than Shoe Goo'ing battery straps to the lipos, which would work but would be costly buying either more packs or more straps. Also, as-is the fit is so tight that the top of the battery strap is this/close to binding on the bottom of the upper deck.

Suggestions (with pics?) appreciated.

No pics, but this is what i have been doing and it seems to work the best - not perfect yet but i am tinkering with a few ideas. On the stock chassis it seems to have a slot cut out for the tape - but the other side does not, but the other side does have a hole drilled that is ALMOST parallel to the "tape slot" - so what i did was dremel out the hole so i could fit some tape through it. These two slots are a little to long to fit the 4800 w/o having some "play" back and forth. Since you have to add some weight for the Lipo to balance the car, i placed a few bars on the very end of the battery to "make it longer" so there is no play back and forth. I then strap it up and it works pretty dang good - it still has a little lateral movement, but it is alot stronger than just using the strap.

here is a visual so you can kinda see what i am talking about



I am wanting to find something that i can place on the bottom of the battery to keep it from sliding back and forth - i was thinking the lining you use for your kitchen cabinets, but that is going to be too thick - i thought about 2 sided tape, but i want to be able to take my battery in and out with ease...

hope that helps
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Old 04-26-2006, 09:16 AM   #7163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianH28
Seconded: Should I cut the blue wire on my Novak speed controller and 4.5 motor? Or should I gear down. Iím running 105/30. 7.0 roll out.

Thanks for any adviceÖ.
You are WAY overgeared for that motor. Try more like 23/105 on the gearing which is like a 9.13 Final Drive.

Jeff
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Old 04-26-2006, 10:12 AM   #7164
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bump
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Last edited by Soul Food; 04-26-2006 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 04-26-2006, 01:19 PM   #7165
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*******My problem seems to be "tramping" of the front tyres, i race on a tight indoor carpet track (8 sec laps) in 27 stock*******


By tramping, i mean juddering.....seems like the front tyre is wanting to roll over its self........

Hard to explain.......if it was on the rear i would say the rear shocks are too stiff........:S heeeeeeeeeelp lol
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Old 04-26-2006, 01:57 PM   #7166
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so your car is running like on 3 wheel??? front left wheel or rigth wheel is lifting above the ground??? it sa that your problem???
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Old 04-26-2006, 03:09 PM   #7167
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well more of the front outside wheel going over a rummble strip......understeering but not smooth understeer more jittering and juddering..... make sense
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Old 04-26-2006, 04:06 PM   #7168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcdougie
Ok, how about 2 sided tape to the battery strap then reinforce it with a few wraps of strapping tape. I did that to my Pro4 and its plenty strong.
There's no room to do that, the battery strap is already pushed up against the top deck as it is... adding any layers of anything (tape, velcro, etc.) between the strap and the bar end up with a battery strap that won't fit under the deck.

Now if we had a milled out chassis made without battery slots but with a recessed area that the lipo fit down in...
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Old 04-26-2006, 04:43 PM   #7169
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Just wondering if anyone knows the exact spacing needed in the front arms to make the the rear and front the same width?

Cheers
Scott
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Old 04-26-2006, 05:24 PM   #7170
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2.5 mm total shims up front using narrow hexes...2 mm with wide hexes. This is for when narrow hexes are used on the rear...which is a must to be legal (I think rubber tires are just on the limit when using small amounts of toe and wide hexes in back (1.5 or less)).
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