ThiagoSena

i really want to buy one of this.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

A couple of local RC suppliers nearby me, get ones custom made by RW Racing down to 60 teeth specifically to fit the Sakura Zero/XI.
Another option is to buy direct from 3 Racing as they have ones down to 65 teeth, and they have a free shipping promotion going. http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4514

Just out of curiosity, what are the class specs for where you race? is it for example 17.5 motor with a "blinky" or "zero timing" esc, as we may be able to help you pick out a reliable combo that will give you good performance and meet the requirements of where you race.

Yes, the stock tires are rubbish, along with the kit servo saver.

As for how long the Sorex 36 tires will last, it all depends on the surface you race on and how many times a week do you race/practice with the car.
If you race once a week on medium grip surface, then you should get at least 3-4 maybe more race meets out of a set of tires. To extend the life you get swap the tires from side to side after a race meeting as most tracks have more corners in either left or right turns and one side will wear out quicker. For example if the track has more left turns, then after the meet swap the left tires over to the right, and then the right tires over to the left.

Cheers
Rob.

6376vette

On carpet my sweep 32 tires lasted a good month and a half. racing and practice every week. I estimate 500 laps or so before I felt like they were getting thin. maybe more.

check your low voltage cut off. it may be set too high. Seen a lot of systems shut down intermittently when it was set to 3.2 v per cell. also what motor temps are you getting. could be going into thermal shut down.

just to throw this out there. absolutely love my viper vtx10r. ran it with a few different 17.5 and 21.5 motors and never had a single problem.

sliding_on13

iTrader: (2)

Quick question does the front solid axel and the one way fit in the rear as well?

Yogi-

Yes

ttsquirrel

t

i think i am set up ok now. the first race, i was using turnigy 80Amp and 21t motor combo. programming card would not work and i didnt know hot to set up with radio as no instructions came with it and no info on hobbyking website. second race, i changed out esc with a ezrun 35A that i have a programming card for. low voltage was set to 3.2 and i have not checked motor temp. low battery voltage should be set to what?

now i have the ezrun esc with the motor that came with it. all seems fine now. i can run over five minutes and still can touch motor without burning my finger. i just bought a temp gauge and will start checking that also.

here is a hypothetical question... what if i cant get the correct temps with the fdr i want? right now i have a 72 sput and 33 pinion for a 4.364 fdr. i would rather have a fdr closer to 4 but i will have to check the motor temps to see if that is possible. so if motor temps are too high you go to smaller pinions, but how do you keep correct fdr?

im probably just a little paranoid....

anyway thanks for info


TTS

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

Is it the same motor as this one? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_1855KV.html

If the motor you have is the same as the one above, then you should be aiming for a FDR between 3.3 - 3.6, and have a high flow fan mounted near the motor to keep it cool.
I'm currently running an FDR of 3.2 but I can get away with that fdr as it's winter here and I have a high flow fan & heat sink on the motor and always make sure my car has a free drive train.

Leave the low voltage setting to 3.2, and you may want to invest in one of these esc's as they are reliable and will work with the Hobbywing LED programming card, especially if you're thinking of only racing in Zero Timing classes. http://www.falconsekido.com/products...c-esc-for-1-10

Cheers
Rob.

6376vette

if you are running a 4.3 and overheating you may have a bind in the drive train somewhere. bad bearing, binding diff etc. or you could have way too much wheel spin causing the motor to momentarily free rev. either of these can build heat.

I would set the cut off at 3.0 for racing. in reality you shouldn't get to this point during a race. the problem with 3.2 is the voltage drop when you load up the motor. An example would be hard acceleration out of a tight turn. on a weaker battery the voltage could momentarily drop low enough to trigger the cut off.

ttsquirrel

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=42712
above is what i orginally put in the car. the programming card did not work with the esc and no instructions with esc so i couldnt set it up.

then i put in the following esc with the above motor. that didnt work well so i went down 2 on the pinion but it still would freeze up.

http://www.raidentech.com/upcokitezses.html


above is what i have in the car now. this motor is way too much for me. i am running in the novice class as i have never raced before. I wanted to start out with 21.5 turn motor and learn how to run the track before i got a more powerful motor. well now the motor is like a 8 or 9 turn and way to powerful for me. at least the car is running. did a five minute run last night and motor temp stayed right at 140. my fdr isnt exactly what i would like but i think ill leave it until i race again on friday. i have a 2.o IR running a 72/33 for a 4.364. if i change to bigger pinion to lower fdr, wont i make the motor run hotter? i'll just see how it performs friday.

how do i know if i am having too uch wheel spin and how would i fix that?

TTS

TTS

brothainchrist0

iTrader: (145)

Hey guys! Quick question. I am going to convert the chassis to a shorty lipo set up and want to know if you buys thought it would be more beneficial to have the battery all the way forward or all the way to the rear?

Thanks!
Kyle

Yogi-

You could use a foam spacer and use the same battery mount then you can run it forward or back depending on you tuning needs .

brothainchrist0

iTrader: (145)

Ya but I want to be able to move the esc and the receiver over on that side to help balance the car better. The Dang motor and servo are so heavy on one side

Kevin Marcy

Unfortunately, the motor/ESC combo you've chosen is a sensorless system, so changing to a 21.5T motor would probably not work well. Sensorless ESCs do not work well with high-turn motors due to start-up issues. The one basic rule of brushless systems (sensored or sensorless) is if it's too hot, go smaller on the pinion gear. There isn't any "magic" FDR that fits all tracks & all cars. The 9T motor you've got is also probably why you haven't gotten much advice on gearing since most racers are running sensored 17.5T or 21.5T motors.

Spinning tires will NOT make your motor too hot. All motors pull more amps at low RPMs, with the amp draw decreasing as the RPMs go up. (Amps = heat.) The only way under-gearing can maybe make your motor hotter is if the car is so slow that you spend 100% of the time at full throttle.

6376vette

A bad set up that spins the tires out of the turns will make the motor hot. You unload and instantly full load the tire when it finally grips and you put a high strain on the motor. this causes heat because of the spike in amps from the sudden load. I have fought this many times on our unpredictable carpet track. Good traction and the motor runs cool. next week same gearing battery esc etc and lower traction the motor over heats until you set the car up properly for track conditions.

Yogi-

Then I'd run it back. I have more trouble with rear traction than the front.

Maybe even look at the xi sport steering and flip the servo over to the right like the tao6 MS.