fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I had my car for about 3 days before giving up on Durango ball cups. All of my cars have Lunsford turnbuckles and ball studs and cups from the 22. There isn't a more reliable setup.

redracerd

iTrader: (94)

you wouldnt say that if you had a 22t

Woulvesbaine

iTrader: (12)

Thanks much. I had flipped the arms but had previously kept the carriers to the same side (left carrier remained left carrier,etc.).

Looks like I should flip the carriers as well. Thanks.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

That is a big, heavy vehicle with very long arms which give lots of leverage to break things from forces at the wheel. A buggy doesn't have near the stresses on it as that truck does. Those parts wouldn't be good on a real car either.

Now saying all that, what setup is more reliable on the 22t?

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

I have not had a issue with ballcups on mine yet. Im actually running my car with the brandon collins setup and I must say it is pretty good except im running 24mm ride height front and rear. What do you guys suggest for just a little more off power steering? Also another question, My preload on my shocks seems kind of odd. Im running almost zero preload in the front and half way down the body on the rear. Most of you guys have it that way or am I not running enough rebound as Im running zero.

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

If you're running the stock Light Blue shocks that's how mine are. Those springs are just so damn soft lol

slammedwagon

I only finished building my DEX210 on Wednesday night before a national event here in NZ, the North Island champs. hit the track on Thursday for the practice session and changed the gearing to 81T spur and 26 pinion running in our stock class, which runs a 21.5t and open esc. first qualifier took it out and won by 3 seconds over of the NZ1 2wd driver. ended up qualifying 9th in the a-main finals. and over 3 final heats ended up 7th overall. was very happy how the 210 performed.

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

I had issues with the turnbuckles on my 410 but the 210 RTR turnbuckles have been great so far. I had intended on buying the Lunsford setup when I bought the car but forgot to add it to cart and I'm glad I did now.

rvrftw

iTrader: (1)

Hi, I bought a Durango DEX210 kit.
I am putting the diff together, and I have the following issues:
1. The small internal diameter thrust washer has too small a diameter to fit all the way down the shaft of the diff screw (it can fit over the threaded bit, but is stuck when it hits the non-threaded shaft)
2. The large internal diameter thrust washer has too big a outer diameter to fit into the outdrive (i.e. I can't get it down to past the circlip ridge, i can only just get it to fit flush with the inside edge of the outdrive by using force)

Is this a common problem? or am I missing something?

shagino

iTrader: (57)

1. Go get a needle file kit. I've never seen that issue.
2. I had that issue as well. http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post12503445

Dino_D

1. There is a bit of flashing between the thread and the non threaded part. You need to run a small file on it to get it to fit. Put the shaft on a drill to spin it and put the file on that area.
2. Make sure the thrust washers and thrust balls are oriented right.
There is a video and tips on the ball diff assembly, at the durango site, which really helps.

LM22D

iTrader: (33)

I'm running on a larger outdoor hard packed clay track with some light dust. I am currently using the stock aluminum chassis. Would there be a noticeable difference switching to the plastic +8.

blingy

iTrader: (6)

Is there any word on when the new car is going to be available or where you can get the old carb/c its not on durangos site even just the rtr?thnx

Atomicsickness

iTrader: (26)

I would say yes. I feel that is where the +8 chassis shines.

Woulvesbaine

iTrader: (12)

To echo Atomic I run mm on clay and prefer the rear grip of the dimec chassis. Note there are now a couple different materials. Maybe someone can comment further which one they'd suggest for your conditions.