WallyRC

I will try and post some pics later too. I changed mine up and used some pivot balls with longer screws and mounted the ball cups where the waterfall screws already exist. Allows battery to go further rearward.

WallyRC

If you keep the same shape as the old ones, just add in ridges to hold shorty and beef up the sidepods material and rigidity, should eliminate the need for the turnbuckle mod for stiffness??
What ya think??
Thanks for working on this!!

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I'm with Cain. When you figure out pricing I would like a set for sure. If pre paying helps you out I will have no problem with that.

Thanks
Brian

Cain

iTrader: (294)

+1 . Check your pm Laker67 as I think I would like to go that route.

Okay, so back to a bit more discussions on setup, Right now the two vehicles I have are a dex210v2 for my daughter and a dex210v2 Plan B for myself. Talking to the Plan B manufacturer he says to just run the vehicle in mid condition regardless of track conditions, so I am going to run with that and work on setup.

My daughters vehicle I am thinking of leaving in mid configuration as well but it will have the standard pack style setup but with a shorty. Now mind you, I have weights, etc I can check on the rear to get more grip. I am wondering if I should look into putting on the 4 gear setup for her by default.

Another driver who I length a dex210v2 to at the time (or whatever it was) ran it in the loose conditions I have commented on from my last race in mid configuration and was lighting it up, so I think she will be good to go, but I am curious.

Also, I am assuming at one of the tracks I'll run at it will have the stock class we did indoors. I don't know for sure though. What items do you find you set that stay common going from stock 17.5 to mod (8.5 max)?

I'll finally get to use some of those yellow wheels I "love" so much, on her vehicle lol.

Lastly, anyone recall what the fix is for the binding case issue short of a new case?

Vujkovicv

iTrader: (1)

I've been running the dex210v3 for about 5 months now and only recently noticed that the durango drivers (amezcua and jp) run theirs in right hand drive. I run a mm3 left hand drive setup. Can someone tell me the difference and benefits/cons of each please?

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

Cosmetically, I'd prefer it that way but I'm guessing it wouldn't be as stiff as what you'd get with the turnbuckles or the stock sidepods. I wonder how hard it would be to design a new waterfall piece that could go over the battery.

Laker, if you're looking for someone to test the sidepods, let me know. I can print them out at work.

bdyche

iTrader: (5)

With mid motor, just remember to pay attention to tire selection on the loose tracks. For the past few years I have run mid motor (other brands) without issues outdoors. 4 gear will be better for outdoors as it will shift more weight to the rear on acceleration.

For setup I have found that if a setup works, it doesn't really matter what motor I put in it. I have been running my V3 in MM3 configuration with a 7.5T in it and switched to a 17.5T for a couple of bigger races and did better than I could have imagined with my old dedicated "stock" car that had all of the lightweight parts and high end bearings.

For the transmission binding, it really just takes patience. I spent about an hour on the transmission case on my DEX210V3 to get it right (once the gears were broken in). I ended up using finer shims on the top shaft and removing all of the shims for the differential in order to get it to roll free. The kit directions are very much just a guide. Pay special attention to how tight you are tightening the transmission case screws. If you find that they are tight and there still seems to be binding, don't be afraid to use some 0.1mm shims (I personally use 1/8 scale clutch shims) between the halves of the transmission to get it to roll free.

Laker67

iTrader: (69)

Yeah, that might work out! I did have a bit of a hang up last night though. Apparently I scheduled a Windows 10 update a while back and shorty after I posted the side pod design the update happened. Now Solidworks 2014 won't work with the new OS so I have to get my hands on the 2015 version. I'm working on that now so hopefully I'll be able to finish up the design this week.

Also, I can make the pods to look however you guys want, so if everyone likes the stock design I can go that way. I just though about narrowing it up so there might be more body options, so you guys let me know what's preferd and I'll move that direction.

ekt

iTrader: (4)

Do you mean MM4 vs MM3? Here's an article from TD that explains some of the differences between the layouts http://www.team-durango.com/ttt-arti...rticle_id=4472

Have you tried right clicking on the program icon and using the 'troubleshoot compatibility' option? It's allowed me to run older programs before

Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks for the info on the tranny cases.

Yeah I'll have to play with those. To confirm you are running shims "in" the cases between the case halves where the screws go through to "space the case" I guess for a lack of a better term?

I do back the screws off etc right now and can get it feel about right, but wouldn't mind a better option than doing that if possible even if that involves shimming the case.

Vujkovicv

iTrader: (1)

No, I mean difference between left hand drive and right hand drive.

bdyche

iTrader: (5)

Yes, "space the case." Play with internal shimming first, though. When I ran another brand we would sometimes end up with 0.2mm of shims between the halves of the transmission and a thin bead of silicone caulking or permatex at the seam to keep dirt out.

bdyche

iTrader: (5)

I've never heard of that term before regarding an RC car layout. Could you post pictures for clarification?

WallyRC

I think he is talking about the direction the motor is pointing.

That occurs whether your running 4 gear or 3 gear in your transmission.
Not a preference of motor position. Go to the Durango website and look at the different configurations. Changes handling characteristics.

Vujkovicv

iTrader: (1)

notice the position of the motor plate. Its a tuning option on our cars. kinda hard to miss. I know all about mm3,mm4, rm3 and 4, but this is something completely different. what im thinking is it reverses the way the motor spins and more weight will transfer to the back for more forward bite if its in right hand drive.