Paul L

HI.
personally i would use the ceramic Thrust and the Carbide Balls. Ceramic Balls work well if your diff rings are sanded perfect to get good grip on the ball, but i would choose the Carbide balls because i feel like they will grip better naturally to the diff ring. I could be wrong but without doing more building and testing, that is what i think.

Thanks

jgraham37128

iTrader: (25)

Paul, how do you break your diff in after rebuilding it? Do you just tighten it right up to the tightness you prefer and run it or do you just get it snug and then run a few laps and then tighten or another method?

How do you know when the diff is as tight as it needs to be?

Thanks for all your help,


JG

jgraham37128

iTrader: (25)

Paul, how do you break your diff in after rebuilding it? Do you just tighten it right up to the tightness you prefer and run it or do you just get it snug and then run a few laps and then tighten or another method?

How do you know when the diff is as tight as it needs to be?

Thanks for all your help,


JG

bshookup

iTrader: (21)

Paul,

I just picked up an Exotek chassis for my T3 2010, and I was surprised at how thick and stiff it is. I was wondering what your thoughts were on running a stiffer than stock Exotek chassis on carpet with rubber tires. Any advantages/disadvantages.

- Brian

Paul L

No problem. after rebuilding the diff I start with it pretty loose, i will hold the spur and spin the diff each direction for a few seconds, then i will tighten it little by little and continue to spin and slip it. I will slip it by holding one tire and the spur with one hand and spinning the other tire. maybe all in all it takes me 3 min to do it completely. i check the tightness by feeling how hard it is to slip while holding the spur and one tire. for 17.5 it dosent have to be super tight but it should take a decent amount of effort to slip the diff. for mod i set it to where it will slip but it takes a lot of effort and almost skipps the belt. I know that is not a very specific answer but thats all i got. LOL

Thanks

Hi, if the Chassis is thicker than 2.5mms i think that it will not perform as well as the stock chassis. A thick chassis like 2.75 or 3mm will not have the stability that is needed for rubber tire. a softer chassis makes the car drive easier than a stiff chassis. a soft one will feel like it has more traction BC it does not allow the suspension to unload as much threw a corner and generally keeps the rear of the car stuck better. A chassis can be too soft also though and just be inconsistent threw sweepers and high load corners.
It depends how stiff this chassis is, if it is super stiff and thick i would say that you would be better off with a stock chassis for sure. if it is 2.5mms or less and just kinda stiff, maybe you can remove some top deck screws or stand offs and it will perform well.
On the T311 i feel like the stock chassis with the steering stiffners is the right amount of flex.

Thanks

bshookup

iTrader: (21)

Thanks Paul

Satchel

Paul when will you run the '11 car on asphalt for the first time?

Paul L

I did run the pre production car at west coast last year, the next time i run asphalt will be at the next asphalt race. I dont know what race comes first lol. reedy race, outdoor nationals, xray challange, ? lol, sorry

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

I'm sure it's the XRAY Challenge at West Coast Raceway April 30th - May 1st 2011 (shameless plug)

Paul L

Thanks Fred!

John_S

hey paul i was just wondering what you thaught the 1 deg rear hubs done to the car over the kit version. Keeping the same overall rear toe ofcource. I no this would change the wheelbase and possibly track width slightly, but was wondering how it made the car feel.

Xpress

iTrader: (3)

Paul do you know if these tires work on carpet?

Paul L

Hi. I think if i had 2 inboard +1 outboard the rear of woud roll a little more and the car would also be smoother entering the corner and have more steering on exit.
If i had 3deg all inboard the rear would stay flatter, have more entry corner steering and less exit. Inboard toe makes the rear feel stffer and has better forward traction. I like the way that the 1deg outboard makes the rear of the car roll, that is why i use them.

For carpet i use 1deg outboard a lot, for asphalt i normally run all inboard toe. Thanks!



I miss those things

Tron

iTrader: (17)

Hi Paul, do you have a FDR recommendation for a 17.5 TP z3r with the blue rotor? Zero timing class with a LRP SXX Stockspec v2. How about the stock red rotor? Timing setting on the can? It came at 20 degrees...

I will be running at west coast rc raceway.

Thank you in advance.

Brett

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

I'm pretty sure EA has run that setup. He might be better qualified to answer that one...

I don't think Paul runs much 17.5 blinky class...lol