ASM

iTrader: (30)

If they get too bad, Acer Racing has the entire TC3 set including the diff bearings for $19.99 (metal shielded). These perform real well and are great replacements. They also have teflon sealed bearing sets for $39.99, but I haven't seen or used those yet. These are great prices considering that you get the 4 large outdrive bearings, 12 hub/input shaft bearings, and the 4 small diff bearings. That's 20 bearings for $20!! Just an FYI for anyone looking to put in a whole new set.

SkarTisu

iTrader: (8)

TC3Racer: What I'd do in your case is to flush the bearings with motor spray. If they're brand new, and like the teflon sealed ones (I don't know, never seen them) they'll have a heavy grease packed in the bearing. If you spin the bearing in your hand, and find noticeable drag, then it's got that grease in the bearing. Flush the bearing a few seconds, spin it, then flush it again. Repeat this until you notice little to no friction when spinning it. Once you get to that point, either use compressed air to blow out the bearing, or let it sit for about 10-15 minutes like Tony mentioned, then put one or two drops of Trinity Royal Oil in it. You should then have a nearly frictionless bearing! Multiply that times 16(?) bearings, and you've saved a TON of drag!

I'm not sure how often they'd need relubing. If you're running the car inside, or on a meticulously swept parking lot, then you're probably good for a month or two.

REEDY

Anyone I've heard racers who dip their bearings on wd40 then relube them. Is this ok?

Cosmo

iTrader: (5)

Well, I have the seals removed in my bearings (only one seal) and they ahve lasted an entire season. I replace my bearings every off season anyways, so I don't think durability is an issue. At least not for me at my track.

Bosscat

I think you will find that dipping in WD40 will provide sufficient lubrication. No need to use any thing else. However you need to remember that if you remove a seal dirt will get in if you lube the bearing as well then the dirt will stay- trapped by the lube what ever it is WD40, Royal Oil, or even cooking oil!! Lube + Dirt = High wear because the two combine to make a very effective grinding paste.
I would suggest that if you remove a seal then clean the bearing forget the relube job unless you are going to re- clean and lube after every meeting at the minimum else the bearings are going to wear pretty quickly.
There are some dry lubes on the market think these are mainly for locks where dirt is always the enemy, you could try that but I don't know anyone who has.

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

that's why you only remove ONE seal. i've had bearing last an entire season using this method. I do, however, replace ALL the bearings before every big race. and, i do replace single bearing when i take a hit hard enough to break an arm or cvd or something like that. taking a hit that hard can cause the bearing race to bend...and this can cause problems...

everyone has their own methods that work for them, this is just what works for me....

my 2c

M Ignacio

Man my bearings were taunting me saying, " Hurry up and pop me!!" So I had to do it and pop one side of all my bearings on the TC3!!! Couldn't help it. I'll tell you this though. You can see and feel the difference. It's worth it. Just maintain it from race to race and you should be well on your way.

Brad Schaffert

I'm looking for more off power steering from my tc3. I'm currently running a front oneway unit with no swaybars. Shocks are stood all the way up. In front I'm running red springs with 70wt oil, rear gold springs with 50wt oil. Batteries are split and rear hubs are moved forward. I'm running on an asphalt high bite surface.

Thanks!!

TC3Racer

Look at Mark Pavaids' most recent setup. It should help. Its on the AE website and RC Car magazine.

ernestf

iTrader: (2)

where can i find the most recently TC3 setup from mark ?? i can only find setup sheet on 2000 but nothing on 2001. any hints ?

TC3Racer

I will try and find it. The one I saw was out here from cali. http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/setup/racersetups/tc3_reedyripon_2001.jpg Yeah there are 3 from 2001 that are for the tc3. one of them is for the tc3.

ernestf

iTrader: (2)

TC3Racer, thx for the info.

SkarTisu

iTrader: (8)

Brad,

To find more steering, there's lots of ways to go about it. Usually, I'll start at the back of the car and do the following:

- Go to stiffer springs
- Go to heavier oil
- Go to smaller pistons
- Stand the shocks up
- Lengthen the wheelbase
- Add a swaybar
- Increase rear ride height

I like to start at the back first since it seems like I get more "bang for the buck" on changes I make there. You could also go to the front end and do the following:

- Go to lighter springs
- Go to lighter oil
- Go to larger pistons
- Lay the shocks down
- Remove the swaybar (if you're running one, which I see you aren't)
- Add toe-out

As far as running other's setups, it doesn't do you a whole lot of good usually, other than a place to start that is somewhat close to fast. Everybody has different driving styles, surfaces and expectations of their car. If you can identify what you want the car to do and know what changes to make, then you'll be able to dial yourself in. Just remember to only change one thing at a time and test, so you know if your change worked the way you'd intended.

redsand

has anyone ever experienced with the antisquat thing ?

Corse-R

I've acustomed to run with the R2+0 A-arm brackets. The car is really fast, but, as a tradeoff the car is more sensitive and the rear end breaks loose.

This is the other 'anti-squat' setting for the TC3 with AE parts, I haven't tested with lesser.