marvi

iTrader: (82)

thanks for info guys

wolfeman09

What cvds is everyone using with their one ways?

Buda

Is it much of a differance in traction changing the whhel base from med to short or to long?

diesel31

wolfeman,

i've used composites & the aluminum ones, but they both still pale in comparison to the mip steel cvd's. the composites have very little durability and have a tendency to snap at the outdrives. the aluminum cvd's bend.

don't get me wrong, the mip's will also bend, but they just seem to hold up better. of course, there is an increase in rotational weight, but the trade-off makes up for it.

by the way, whenever you hit a dot or the car gets lifted, remember to let off the throttle. when car finally lands, the wheel will want to spin backwards, but the one-way will resist that. somethings gotta give, and more often than not, it's gonna be the cvd.

diesel31

i used to run a short wheel base, but then tony phelan told me that i could extend it w/o giving up too much traction, and at the same time increase steering. he was right, and i've run a medium wheel base ever since (spacers on each end).

Airwide

Hey everyone! I just updated my equipment on my homepage.

And if you haven't noticed, there are som pics from DHI Cup in the gallery.

wolfeman09

Diesel > Thanks for the info. I switched to the composite ones and everything was good and then i put in the one way and broke some of them.

Buda > there is a difference, the shorter the wheelbase the more traction you have You can d/l the AE TC3 manual from the website and in the back it gives you all the info. This is a great resource and has been update frequently since I own one of the first manuls and a lot of changes have been done to it.

rcruv

Heard stiffer spring can give more traction dpends on the track condition.
Anybody know more about this?

I set up the toe out of front wheels again.
Now car's turning equally left and right.
Also noticed it's turning so much sharper than before when toe out was not set up correctly.
Interesting.

Also lowered ride height to 4.5mm. This may have affect on steering I guess.

Tomorrow I'm finally off to lhs buying first upgrade to my TC3.

After reading all your recomendations, I will buy
- BRP wide bumper
- Trinity blue foam bumper, nerf wing
- springs, shock oil
- motor heat sink long
- sorex 36r or 32r
- hpi green inserts
- dish wheels

Anybody knows who's selling carbon fiber dish wheels in US?

Corse-R

As a rule of thumb:

At better traction on the surface, you need to put stiffer springs.
At lesser traction on the surface, you need to put softer springs.

On the years I drove my TC3 never I used stiffer springs than the red.

Let's take a look to this: With softer springs the car transfers their weight to the wheels and this weight compresses more the spring. With more weight transferred to the exterior wheels when cornering, more grip has the wheel and less weight, and thus less traction has the inner wheels. This is chassis roll (on all three axis: roll / pitch / yaw).

You can control the amount of chassis roll putting different oils. You can vary the speed of the damping changing oils (with thinner oils, the damping should be soft and prone to absorb each mogul on the surface with ticker oils the damping should be hard and perfect for surface that are like a billiard table).

There are other tunning parameters that affect cornering: caster and kick up, camber and shock position.

If your car is very quick and itchy on the steering you can swap the caster blocks for the 2 or 4 degree castor blocks. As caster increases you get more straight running stability and less steering capability.

About the ground clearance, at lesser clearance you lower the car, but makes more abrupt (it lacks chassis roll).

About the carbon fiber wheels. I prefeer to use straight nylon dish wheels, if I crash the wheels flexes a little. I never seen a competitive racer with CF wheels on racing. Are quite less expensive and if you ruin a wheel placing another pair is a question of few bucks.

dw

Hi,

Corser, Damping doesn't affect the amount of roll. It only affects the speed of it.This is because as the velocity of a damper approaches zero, so does the force. If you want less roll you have to do something with springs, roll bars or reduce the distance between the roll centre and the centre of gravity.

Do you guys have much trouble with hinge pins on the tc3?Managed to bend 4 hinge pins in 1 lap last race I did. Hit 1 side of the car,bent 2 front ones, then not realising it was broke did the other side a couple of corners later.

Dave

rcruv

Thanks for info guys.
I appreciate it.

I think I have lots of things to learn.

Wow is it that easy to break hinge pins?

Corse-R

Dave, please read another time my post....

You can control the amount of chassis roll putting different oils. You can vary the speed of the damping changing oils

If you put a thicker oil you're forcing to the shock to move less (and thus the chassis). With a so much thicker oil you can almost do a chassis flip (I did one in the past by this cause) a year ago I made a turn (very high speed turn at almost full throttle and the chassis flip and I ended the turn on two wheels) is an experience that I don't recomend to none .

The problem with the hinge pins is a pain in the a.. for me, I solved partially installing lunsford Ti hinge pins. They are so strong that the hinge pin don't bend, but a bad crash can break the arm or strip the brackets...

Well... if you slam your car, you can bend something (a ti pin too) but you need to be so brute to do this.

Dragon Slayer

I guess it depends on how hard you hit the boards....We have a new track-ozite w/wooden barriers.....i have hit my fair share of boards and havent bent a pin yet....may depend on the angle that you hit????I got punted one time and hit a brick wall at the end of the straight...hit about about 3' up...didnt break anything.....it sure sounded ugly

dw

sorry but I disagree. Yes the chassis will roll less with heavier oil for quick changes of direction of short duration, but only because the force lasts for a very short time so the car suspension can't respond quickly enough. For any corner of reasonable length though this is not true as there is still a force when the maximum roll angle is reached.
When the car reaches its maximum angle of roll the force must be entirely compensated for by the springs as the damper is not moving and therefore can't produce a force. The force a spring produces is proportional to the amount it has been compressed, so it must be compressed the same amount regardless of the damper settings. This means that the maximum angle the car reaches is independant of damper settings.

Dave

racerdave

I have bent quite a few hinge pins (I am not that great of a driver)
I found that the Lunsfurd Ti pins are the easiest to bend, I think that is why they started selling them in pairs for the the tc3. I pefer the AE or BRP pins. I check the front pins after every race day or between heats if my car is handling strange. I cut the back of the holes where the bumper fits under the gearbox so that I only have to remove 2 screws.