TC3 Forum
#586
Tech Adept
Can anyone tell me if the blue alloy screw kit includes the screws for the chassis underside?
Does anyone one from the UK know where to get the RPM blue ball end cups or something similar?
Thanks.
Yorkie
Does anyone one from the UK know where to get the RPM blue ball end cups or something similar?
Thanks.
Yorkie
#587
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.
More TC3 results. Christmas Cup 23/12/2001. Malta.
Mod TC.
1st JOSHUA ANASTASI TC3 / Corally motor / Corally cells / Novak speedo / KO Propo servo.
2nd JOE ANASTASI MR4 (that's me) / Corally/Corally/Novak/KO.
3rd HAYDEN SCIBERRAS TC3 /Corally/LRP/Novak/KO.
1 hour endurance. Standard 27 turn motor.
1st TC3.
Happy Christmas.
regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
More TC3 results. Christmas Cup 23/12/2001. Malta.
Mod TC.
1st JOSHUA ANASTASI TC3 / Corally motor / Corally cells / Novak speedo / KO Propo servo.
2nd JOE ANASTASI MR4 (that's me) / Corally/Corally/Novak/KO.
3rd HAYDEN SCIBERRAS TC3 /Corally/LRP/Novak/KO.
1 hour endurance. Standard 27 turn motor.
1st TC3.
Happy Christmas.
regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
#588
Originally posted by Yorkie
Can anyone tell me if the blue alloy screw kit includes the screws for the chassis underside?
Does anyone one from the UK know where to get the RPM blue ball end cups or something similar.
Yorkie
Can anyone tell me if the blue alloy screw kit includes the screws for the chassis underside?
Does anyone one from the UK know where to get the RPM blue ball end cups or something similar.
Yorkie
Have you taked a look on Apex Models?
#589
Tech Adept
Thanks Corse-R,
I am in the middle of rebuilding my old TC3 and need to get some new parts.
Found the RPM ball cups on the Apex web site.
My CVDs need replacing but I was thinking that the composite drive shafts would have less weight and therefore less rotating mass. What do other people think? They would also be cheaper to replace in future.
I may end up buying a Racer kit and transfering the Ti turnbuckles and shock bodies, as this may be a cheaper option than buying all the individual spares that I need????
I'll be using the finished version for indoor stock racing at club level.
Yorkie
I am in the middle of rebuilding my old TC3 and need to get some new parts.
Found the RPM ball cups on the Apex web site.
My CVDs need replacing but I was thinking that the composite drive shafts would have less weight and therefore less rotating mass. What do other people think? They would also be cheaper to replace in future.
I may end up buying a Racer kit and transfering the Ti turnbuckles and shock bodies, as this may be a cheaper option than buying all the individual spares that I need????
I'll be using the finished version for indoor stock racing at club level.
Yorkie
#590
Last edited by Corse-R; 12-23-2001 at 11:26 PM.
#591
Originally posted by Yorkie
I am in the middle of rebuilding my old TC3 and need to get some new parts.
My CVDs need replacing but I was thinking that the composite drive shafts would have less weight and therefore less rotating mass. What do other people think? They would also be cheaper to replace in future.
I may end up buying a Racer kit and transfering the Ti turnbuckles and shock bodies, as this may be a cheaper option than buying all the individual spares that I need????
I am in the middle of rebuilding my old TC3 and need to get some new parts.
My CVDs need replacing but I was thinking that the composite drive shafts would have less weight and therefore less rotating mass. What do other people think? They would also be cheaper to replace in future.
I may end up buying a Racer kit and transfering the Ti turnbuckles and shock bodies, as this may be a cheaper option than buying all the individual spares that I need????
Take a good look to the IRS plastic CVD's and the Aluminium input shafts, they're worth every penny and with the plastic diffs you reduce to the maximum the inertia on the transom (I've used with mod motors ).
#592
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.
Yorkie. We have had very little trouble with TC3 alloy drive shafts. We run mod - see results of Christmas Cup meeting in yesterday's posts, on a grippy tarmac surface, so there is plenty of load on the transmission. I replaced my son's TC3 drive shafts at the start of the season, just to start off with a new set, just as I like to start off the season with many new bits as a precautionary measure. Incidentally we also use the "factory team" plastic diff halves. They are the lightest/strongest combination presently available.
I have sold plenty of TC3s, and indeed quite a few of them run in modithout any drive shaft problems. I sell many more MR4 drive shafts than TC3.
A happy Christmas to everyone.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
Yorkie. We have had very little trouble with TC3 alloy drive shafts. We run mod - see results of Christmas Cup meeting in yesterday's posts, on a grippy tarmac surface, so there is plenty of load on the transmission. I replaced my son's TC3 drive shafts at the start of the season, just to start off with a new set, just as I like to start off the season with many new bits as a precautionary measure. Incidentally we also use the "factory team" plastic diff halves. They are the lightest/strongest combination presently available.
I have sold plenty of TC3s, and indeed quite a few of them run in modithout any drive shaft problems. I sell many more MR4 drive shafts than TC3.
A happy Christmas to everyone.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
#593
Tech Adept
Johnbull,
Thanks for the info.
I have no problems with the durability of the alloy CVDs as these have lasted about 2 years (original issue) and lasted very well IMO.
I was just wondering what the advantage was of running the alloy compared to the composite? I race mostly stock with the TC3 and I am curious to know how much of a difference the alloy CVDs make?
I'm not into pretty "eye candy" and prefer sensible solutions.
Plus, as the handle suggests, I'm from Yorkshire, UK and as tight as an Duck's behind!!!
Merry Christmas to all and thanks for all the suggestions and help over the last year
Yorkie
Thanks for the info.
I have no problems with the durability of the alloy CVDs as these have lasted about 2 years (original issue) and lasted very well IMO.
I was just wondering what the advantage was of running the alloy compared to the composite? I race mostly stock with the TC3 and I am curious to know how much of a difference the alloy CVDs make?
I'm not into pretty "eye candy" and prefer sensible solutions.
Plus, as the handle suggests, I'm from Yorkshire, UK and as tight as an Duck's behind!!!
Merry Christmas to all and thanks for all the suggestions and help over the last year
Yorkie
#594
Tech Master
Originally posted by Yorkie
My CVDs need replacing but I was thinking that the composite drive shafts would have less weight and therefore less rotating mass. What do other people think? They would also be cheaper to replace in future.
My CVDs need replacing but I was thinking that the composite drive shafts would have less weight and therefore less rotating mass. What do other people think? They would also be cheaper to replace in future.
#595
Tech Fanatic
We race on carpet and changed our front end set up to 0 degree kickup and 4 degree caster blocks. Made a big difference in snappy steering; gained a lap on the current track layout.
Also tried out a used set of TRC foams yesterday and I am now a foam fan! Our track owner is interpreting recent ROAR rules and will be allowing either foams or rubber during our point series races.
Also tried out a used set of TRC foams yesterday and I am now a foam fan! Our track owner is interpreting recent ROAR rules and will be allowing either foams or rubber during our point series races.
#596
Originally posted by Yorkie
I was just wondering what the advantage was of running the alloy compared to the composite? I race mostly stock with the TC3 and I am curious to know how much of a difference the alloy CVDs make?
I was just wondering what the advantage was of running the alloy compared to the composite? I race mostly stock with the TC3 and I am curious to know how much of a difference the alloy CVDs make?
If you race stock, your best bet should grab some plastic CVD's and try to do the transmission as light as possible (less weight = less inertia).
If you put some 'shiny' CVD's you ruin all the advantages from the transmission of the TC3 putting weight on the transmission.
The power of your stock motor is very limited and every gram that you need to accelerate and brake is power lost to the wheels.
#597
Tech Adept
Corse-R,
Thanks for the info, that's was pretty much my train of thought also.
I think I'll order the racer kit after New Year and rob all the drivetrain parts.
Does the new racer kit come with droop screws in the wishbones and the composite outdrives?
Thanks,
Yorkie
Thanks for the info, that's was pretty much my train of thought also.
I think I'll order the racer kit after New Year and rob all the drivetrain parts.
Does the new racer kit come with droop screws in the wishbones and the composite outdrives?
Thanks,
Yorkie
#598
Tech Master
The racer kit does come with the droop screw suspension arms. It still has the steel outdrives in it, but I will check to make sure.
#599
SoCal Racin'
Tony,
Me and a couple of guys from Scottsdale were talking about taking a weekend roadtrip to the SoCal area. Any specific weekends stick out? What about race days? Is there a rotation where we could race Fri, Sat & Sun among a few tracks? Thanks, late...
Brent Thielke
Me and a couple of guys from Scottsdale were talking about taking a weekend roadtrip to the SoCal area. Any specific weekends stick out? What about race days? Is there a rotation where we could race Fri, Sat & Sun among a few tracks? Thanks, late...
Brent Thielke
#600
Tech Adept
racer kit
The racer kit has the plastic outdrives also ( bought one Feb 2001) , they are much cheaper than the steel units so it only makes sense to put them in there.