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"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors

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Old 03-04-2010, 10:13 AM
  #931  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
Hey guys, thanks for your replies. I do build my diffs just as Jilles says in the videos (with ceramic balls). I also just replaced the belts last week, and they still appear to be brand new. The noise definitely seems to be coming from the diff. It seems to be beneficial to run it tight the first time, 'cause if you end up with a diff that slips for even one pack, it must be rebuilt afterwards.
What grease are you using? Try to use stickier and thicker grease compared to stock class. Also, do not use too much grease. For instance: associated grease is too thin and doesn't stick enough.

Another thing: adjust your throttle exponential....Mine is set at -33% !

Replace Tamiya diff spring for a HPI one.

Use locktide on your bolt and nut.
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Old 03-04-2010, 11:47 AM
  #932  
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Originally Posted by Govert
What grease are you using? Try to use stickier and thicker grease compared to stock class. Also, do not use too much grease. For instance: associated grease is too thin and doesn't stick enough.

Another thing: adjust your throttle exponential....Mine is set at -33% !

Replace Tamiya diff spring for a HPI one.

Use locktide on your bolt and nut.
I'm using Schumacher on the diff balls, and Muchmore black grease on the thrust. My last diff I tried gluing the rings to the outdrives and it was the best and longest my diff has ever lasted. I'll try some negative expo on the throttle, that's really where I'm getting into the most trouble with slipping. Still trying to teach my finger I'm not racing a 13.5.
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
I'm using Schumacher on the diff balls, and Muchmore black grease on the thrust. My last diff I tried gluing the rings to the outdrives and it was the best and longest my diff has ever lasted. I'll try some negative expo on the throttle, that's really where I'm getting into the most trouble with slipping. Still trying to teach my finger I'm not racing a 13.5.
Gluing could be good, but what I use is tamiya anti wear grease between diff ring and outdrive...sticks very well..

Schumacher and much more is ok.
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:49 PM
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Have to say, just built my first diff up using the Tamiya Hard friction damper greese (53176) that the team uses... coupled with a nicely roughed up out-drive facing diff ring, grips a lot better than before, and the diff feels very smooth and free.
I also took the time to remove the lugs off the pulley, also helps to free the diff up a bit more as well... and I thought my diffs were free before!
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Old 03-04-2010, 03:02 PM
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Could you please explain yourself regarding the removing of the lugs? Which part do you mean?
And by removing, do you mean completely removing or partly?
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Old 03-04-2010, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Govert
Could you please explain yourself regarding the removing of the lugs? Which part do you mean?
And by removing, do you mean completely removing or partly?
http://trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html
Have a look at that link from Lee Martins site, fourth picture down shows what I mean about the lugs. I know that that's for a 511, but it uses pretty much the same diff parts as the 416

HiH
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Old 03-04-2010, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Govert
Could you please explain yourself regarding the removing of the lugs? Which part do you mean?
And by removing, do you mean completely removing or partly?
It's explained at the following link. Basically they are little bumps on the pulley between the diff balls that are meant to reduce the amount of side to side play that the pulley has once assembled. Apparently these bumps cause a slight amount of uneven drag agianst the diff rings though, so people are now shaving them off...

http://www.trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html

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Old 03-04-2010, 03:38 PM
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Good one guys! Gonna cut it down tomorrow, first thing on my checklist.
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:20 AM
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Hi guys.. i'm new here..
just wanna ask ur favor.. how i can get sharp conner using 416we. I already adjust at my remote until 140% still can't get sharp turn.
Help me please..
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Mistique
Hi guys.. i'm new here..
just wanna ask ur favor.. how i can get sharp conner using 416we. I already adjust at my remote until 140% still can't get sharp turn.
Help me please..
you should only turn your transmitter up so it just hits the inside of the steering block. if you have more steering then that you are bending the front and you are getting less steering instead.

What you can do is have more weight in rear and you should get more steering on the car.

you can read here for different things u can do.

http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/tc/print.htm




have a nice day!
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy63
you should only turn your transmitter up so it just hits the inside of the steering block. if you have more steering then that you are bending the front and you are getting less steering instead.

What you can do is have more weight in rear and you should get more steering on the car.

you can read here for different things u can do.

http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/tc/print.htm




have a nice day!
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com
Thanks Bro..
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:15 AM
  #942  
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1 more thing... now i'm using 416WE, 11.5T team power motor and Tamiya esc Volac. Can i use 4.9 ratio (105t Spur , 44t Pinion)
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:07 PM
  #943  
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You will need to balance the rpm, power & motor temp

try to conservatively start from 5.5 fdr, ask your teammate to measure lap time & temp gun your motor

ps: if you do use esc with turbo / supercharge try higher fdr to prevent excessive heat on your motor

Originally Posted by Mistique
1 more thing... now i'm using 416WE, 11.5T team power motor and Tamiya esc Volac. Can i use 4.9 ratio (105t Spur , 44t Pinion)
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Old 03-17-2010, 06:03 PM
  #944  
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Have to say, just built my first diff up using the Tamiya Hard friction damper greese (53176) that the team uses... coupled with a nicely roughed up out-drive facing diff ring, grips a lot better than before, and the diff feels very smooth and free.
I also took the time to remove the lugs off the pulley, also helps to free the diff up a bit more as well... and I thought my diffs were free before!
hmm, used the same grease too, but the outdrive slips on the ring no matter how tight I made it. When I used the ball diff grease, it locked like how it is supposed to.
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:12 PM
  #945  
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What (Soft/medium/hard) insert to use for high-bite asphalt track on hot days?
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