"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors
10-04-2009, 05:53 PM
#631
10-05-2009, 01:04 AM
#632
jilles, any tips to make the car hv more steering/ angle to run on layout that have alots of 180deg turn (hairpin) ??
if the track layout is very technical n hv a lots of small chicane that require a very fast responce steering, will u still use thick oil and no rebound ??
what is the different if front inboard 0deg vs inboard toe out 1.5deg ???
thanks
if the track layout is very technical n hv a lots of small chicane that require a very fast responce steering, will u still use thick oil and no rebound ??
what is the different if front inboard 0deg vs inboard toe out 1.5deg ???
thanks
10-07-2009, 01:12 AM
#633
Hi Jilles, this is a great thread!!!
I have some question regarding driving skills, maybe dumb though! I am sort of an intermediate driver........ in our local race, I am among the end of A main and beginning of B main, I want a break through, so I am looking forward to improve my driving skills:
1. When I am driving, I am so much concentrated on my own car alone, so when I am tailing someone, if he make mistake, I follow him, or sometimes, I would even crash into him. I always wonder how you guy do it to aviod accident. You guys seems to know before the car ahead will crash and avioded it. So, my question is: When you are driving, where do you look at your car? I mean do you concentrate looking at your own car or do you also look ahead?
2. I know that practice makes perfect. I would like to know, how do you practice before you became a world class racer? Do you concentrate practice in particular area, i.e. braking, apez, emotion, etc?
3. I always have this problem, whenever our local track change the track layout, my friends only need to run 5-6packs to get to know the new layout, but I require double the time and graduately picking up as quick as my friends are. Any tips for improvement on pick up new layout sooner?
4. If you are in a totally new track and your car is totally wrong and is no source for referrence setup, what are most important settings you would look into first, second, third and so on?
Thank you very much in advance.
Alan
I have some question regarding driving skills, maybe dumb though! I am sort of an intermediate driver........ in our local race, I am among the end of A main and beginning of B main, I want a break through, so I am looking forward to improve my driving skills:
1. When I am driving, I am so much concentrated on my own car alone, so when I am tailing someone, if he make mistake, I follow him, or sometimes, I would even crash into him. I always wonder how you guy do it to aviod accident. You guys seems to know before the car ahead will crash and avioded it. So, my question is: When you are driving, where do you look at your car? I mean do you concentrate looking at your own car or do you also look ahead?
2. I know that practice makes perfect. I would like to know, how do you practice before you became a world class racer? Do you concentrate practice in particular area, i.e. braking, apez, emotion, etc?
3. I always have this problem, whenever our local track change the track layout, my friends only need to run 5-6packs to get to know the new layout, but I require double the time and graduately picking up as quick as my friends are. Any tips for improvement on pick up new layout sooner?
4. If you are in a totally new track and your car is totally wrong and is no source for referrence setup, what are most important settings you would look into first, second, third and so on?
Thank you very much in advance.
Alan
10-07-2009, 05:48 AM
#634
Hi
I was trying to catch up reading this forum.
front: 1c/1c vs 1d/1d, what is the main difference?
how are they supposed to handle?
I was trying to catch up reading this forum.
front: 1c/1c vs 1d/1d, what is the main difference?
how are they supposed to handle?
10-11-2009, 06:54 AM
#635
Hello everyone,
My apologizes for not being active on this forum for a while.
Entitymugenmtx,
Most Lipo fit perfect into the 416. The rearbulkhead and the servo post are perfect support to fit any lipo.
Phil,
Less shim gives smoother/less steering.
Especially on small tracks I use 5mm or 5.5mm.
Mark,
On the "X" most parts remain same as WE. I haven't received the "X" yet but as far I know, the bulkhead and topdeck has changed. So I think they will release these parts separate.
Lay-in the shocks give less traction but more reaction.
Sudhar93,
I'm sure Tamiya oil and Muchmore oil are not the same. I advice to go for one shockoil so when you make any shockoil change you stick with the same brand.
Lilhill,
I also discoverd this "problem". I normally use little foam on both sides of the Lipo pack so when you tape the pack it can't move anymore. Some racers use double sided tape before using regular tape.
Artwork,
I have tested Orion motors/batteries soon you will find some news about this. For speed controller I will use Nosram.
Mark,
Hope to see you guys soon in the states! Haven't been there since last year Vegas!
Billythekid,
1) Normally for high grip you can use a hard insert. The only problem is that a tyre with a hard insert will overheat quickly. So in morning time with good traction you can use a harder inserts, when the track temp in the afternoon will rise, I prefer to use medium insert to avoid tyre overheating.
2) I have little experience with inserts as all races are controlled tyre/wheel and insert.
3) In most condition a medium/soft insert is always the best compromise.
4) Harder insert has better cornerspeed but has not always good traction, I would like a tyre which is rather soft so it provides good traction in all conditions.
For the weight transfer I mean overall less steering with weight in front, more overall steering with weight in the rear.
Kschu;
I always tested on a very small indoor track and I find running 6mm ackermann spacer is better for the tight 180 corners. You can also dremel some alu from the steering brace to have more lock on the steering.
When you want more reaction I suggest to go softer oil.
I have done many tests with inboard toe-out. Inboard toe-out gives more steering in middle and exit corner but always lack steering into the corner.
Awth,
1. When racing I always look at my car but I know exactly what is happening in front of me and behind me. Sometimes I look also to other cars or even on the scoreboard. This is something that you will get when you race more and more.
2. When you race a lot you will get better, only drive on 1 track will not make you a better driver.
3. experience
4. always look what the fast guys are doing. Tyres, bodies, additives, raceline etc. Normally when you have a good basic set-up your car will always work good enough to drive around.
Ronaldo 1-2-3-4,
1C/1C makes front more narrow, more steering
1D/1D makes front more wide, less steering, more stability
Jilles
My apologizes for not being active on this forum for a while.
Entitymugenmtx,
Most Lipo fit perfect into the 416. The rearbulkhead and the servo post are perfect support to fit any lipo.
Phil,
Less shim gives smoother/less steering.
Especially on small tracks I use 5mm or 5.5mm.
Mark,
On the "X" most parts remain same as WE. I haven't received the "X" yet but as far I know, the bulkhead and topdeck has changed. So I think they will release these parts separate.
Lay-in the shocks give less traction but more reaction.
Sudhar93,
I'm sure Tamiya oil and Muchmore oil are not the same. I advice to go for one shockoil so when you make any shockoil change you stick with the same brand.
Lilhill,
I also discoverd this "problem". I normally use little foam on both sides of the Lipo pack so when you tape the pack it can't move anymore. Some racers use double sided tape before using regular tape.
Artwork,
I have tested Orion motors/batteries soon you will find some news about this. For speed controller I will use Nosram.
Mark,
Hope to see you guys soon in the states! Haven't been there since last year Vegas!
Billythekid,
1) Normally for high grip you can use a hard insert. The only problem is that a tyre with a hard insert will overheat quickly. So in morning time with good traction you can use a harder inserts, when the track temp in the afternoon will rise, I prefer to use medium insert to avoid tyre overheating.
2) I have little experience with inserts as all races are controlled tyre/wheel and insert.
3) In most condition a medium/soft insert is always the best compromise.
4) Harder insert has better cornerspeed but has not always good traction, I would like a tyre which is rather soft so it provides good traction in all conditions.
For the weight transfer I mean overall less steering with weight in front, more overall steering with weight in the rear.
Kschu;
I always tested on a very small indoor track and I find running 6mm ackermann spacer is better for the tight 180 corners. You can also dremel some alu from the steering brace to have more lock on the steering.
When you want more reaction I suggest to go softer oil.
I have done many tests with inboard toe-out. Inboard toe-out gives more steering in middle and exit corner but always lack steering into the corner.
Awth,
1. When racing I always look at my car but I know exactly what is happening in front of me and behind me. Sometimes I look also to other cars or even on the scoreboard. This is something that you will get when you race more and more.
2. When you race a lot you will get better, only drive on 1 track will not make you a better driver.
3. experience
4. always look what the fast guys are doing. Tyres, bodies, additives, raceline etc. Normally when you have a good basic set-up your car will always work good enough to drive around.
Ronaldo 1-2-3-4,
1C/1C makes front more narrow, more steering
1D/1D makes front more wide, less steering, more stability
Jilles
10-11-2009, 10:19 AM
#636
Jilles, that is excellent info. I just switched to the 416WE and picked up 3 tenths right away using Ollie Meggits setup from Tryhards site. I mainly run indoor carpet rubber tire 17.5 and 13.5. What are your thoughts on the difference between running a spool, diff or one-way in the front? I know for higher power classes the spool is the prefered choice, but when running a spec class, providing there are no heavy braking areas, would a one-way be faster?
Thank you for your time answering these questions.
Dwayne Flodell
Thank you for your time answering these questions.
Dwayne Flodell
10-11-2009, 10:22 AM
#637
Jilles, one more question. When you run the front in-board toe-out what blocks do you normally use on carpet?
Thanks
Thanks
10-11-2009, 08:35 PM
#638
Jilles, do you use any exponential or curve on your radio setup? if so can you give us any advice?
10-11-2009, 11:23 PM
#639
Kschu;
I always tested on a very small indoor track and I find running 6mm ackermann spacer is better for the tight 180 corners. You can also dremel some alu from the steering brace to have more lock on the steering.
When you want more reaction I suggest to go softer oil.
I have done many tests with inboard toe-out. Inboard toe-out gives more steering in middle and exit corner but always lack steering into the corner.
Jilles
I always tested on a very small indoor track and I find running 6mm ackermann spacer is better for the tight 180 corners. You can also dremel some alu from the steering brace to have more lock on the steering.
When you want more reaction I suggest to go softer oil.
I have done many tests with inboard toe-out. Inboard toe-out gives more steering in middle and exit corner but always lack steering into the corner.
Jilles
How bout rebound? do u still running no rebound eventhough d track is small n technical ??
10-12-2009, 07:05 AM
#640
Does harder inserts = harder tyres? F1 commentators always say that the harder tyres take longer duration to warm up, does it mean it takes longer duration to overheat too? I always thought harder tyres are less susceptible to overheating until JGH's post. Can someone please help clear my doubts? thank you.
10-12-2009, 07:14 AM
#641
Does harder inserts = harder tyres? F1 commentators always say that the harder tyres take longer duration to warm up, does it mean it takes longer duration to overheat too? I always thought harder tyres are less susceptible to overheating until JGH's post. Can someone please help clear my doubts? thank you.
Harder tyre is mean harder compound of rubber.
Insert is like an air inside your real car tyres.....
10-12-2009, 08:08 AM
#642
Dwayne,
In some cases the one-way is still very fast. Like stock racing or tracks with smooth lay-out you could be faster with one-way. Normally the car tends to oversteer more with one-way. With spool you can race better against the other guys on the track. The stopwatch will tell you.
If I will use inboard toe-out I suggest to you blocks 1B/1D or 1A/1D.
R1Wurks,
Yes, I use expo on the steering, -25% normally. Throttle normally 0% but with stock racing I can suggest 20-30% for better punch.
kschu,
Normally I never use rebound on outdoor tracks, indoors I use little rebound.
Ronaldo,
I thought you where talking only about inserts. Harder tyre will be better against overheating, that's the reason in Thailand we use 40R tyre and in europe 32R for example.
Jilles
In some cases the one-way is still very fast. Like stock racing or tracks with smooth lay-out you could be faster with one-way. Normally the car tends to oversteer more with one-way. With spool you can race better against the other guys on the track. The stopwatch will tell you.
If I will use inboard toe-out I suggest to you blocks 1B/1D or 1A/1D.
R1Wurks,
Yes, I use expo on the steering, -25% normally. Throttle normally 0% but with stock racing I can suggest 20-30% for better punch.
kschu,
Normally I never use rebound on outdoor tracks, indoors I use little rebound.
Ronaldo,
I thought you where talking only about inserts. Harder tyre will be better against overheating, that's the reason in Thailand we use 40R tyre and in europe 32R for example.
Jilles
10-12-2009, 08:43 AM
#643
Jilles, thank you very much for your answers. I have a regional race next week and it is our first big carpet race of the season. I will let you know how it works.
Thanks.........Dwayne Flodell
Thanks.........Dwayne Flodell
10-14-2009, 04:03 AM
#645
Chassis scraping?
Hi Jilles,
Thanks for your time and expertise on this thread, the information is invaluable to us!
My question is about the chassis scraping.
I have found that from brand new my 416WE scraps the sides excessively through chassis roll (and the motor bottom edge a little). It is now only ~10 race days old and the sides of the chassis are worn to almost a sharp edge!
Is this normal? I always use the same roll centre settings as per your standard (and similar) setups. Does your car do the same thing? Is there anything you do to stop this?
Thanks
Cookie
Thanks for your time and expertise on this thread, the information is invaluable to us!
My question is about the chassis scraping.
I have found that from brand new my 416WE scraps the sides excessively through chassis roll (and the motor bottom edge a little). It is now only ~10 race days old and the sides of the chassis are worn to almost a sharp edge!
Is this normal? I always use the same roll centre settings as per your standard (and similar) setups. Does your car do the same thing? Is there anything you do to stop this?
Thanks
Cookie