New Yokomo TC, the BD-5
#2386
all right thanks a lot, I forgot the intern ratio is different from my T3 ( 2 for BD5 and 1,9 for X ray)
so I need between 70 and 82 teeths.
where to buy Xenon spur please?
so I need between 70 and 82 teeths.
where to buy Xenon spur please?
Last edited by Nico'; 12-26-2010 at 04:30 AM.
#2387
Hi,
I've found Zenon 48 Dp spur gears at RC market but there is a problem, they have no big holes to allow to adjust the space between pinion gear teeths and spur gear teeths.
How do you proceed please?
Nico'
I've found Zenon 48 Dp spur gears at RC market but there is a problem, they have no big holes to allow to adjust the space between pinion gear teeths and spur gear teeths.
How do you proceed please?
Nico'
#2389
Or purchase R & W Racing spurs in 48 pitch. That is what I am using on my BD 5.
#2390
Do you succeed to adjust space betweem teeths witj RW spurs?
Or do you use a drill?
#2393
Nico,
I have a BD5 and a BD5W and I use a R & W 70 tooth spur on both cars. I also use a 2mm hex with a ball tip for tightening the motor screw. I do however place the motor screw into the motor loosely before final tightening up. I can not put the screw through the spur gear. In most cases because of the pinion size I have to loosen the motor and angle the motor to get the pinion in.
As Keefy has said, you can redrill and ream a larger hole in the spur, however I would do that twice just so everything is uniform and balanced.
Regards,
Calvin.
I have a BD5 and a BD5W and I use a R & W 70 tooth spur on both cars. I also use a 2mm hex with a ball tip for tightening the motor screw. I do however place the motor screw into the motor loosely before final tightening up. I can not put the screw through the spur gear. In most cases because of the pinion size I have to loosen the motor and angle the motor to get the pinion in.
As Keefy has said, you can redrill and ream a larger hole in the spur, however I would do that twice just so everything is uniform and balanced.
Regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 12-26-2010 at 01:55 PM. Reason: sp
#2394
Nico,
I have a BD5 and a BD5W and I use a R & W 70 tooth spur on both cars. I also use a 2mm hex with a ball tip for tightening the motor screw. I do however place the motor screw into the motor loosely before final tightening up. I can not put the screw through the spur gear. In most cases because of the pinion size I have to loosen the motor and angle the motor to get the pinion in.
As Keefy has said, you can redrill and ream a larger hole in the spur, however I would do that twice just so everything is uniform and balanced.
Regards,
Calvin.
I have a BD5 and a BD5W and I use a R & W 70 tooth spur on both cars. I also use a 2mm hex with a ball tip for tightening the motor screw. I do however place the motor screw into the motor loosely before final tightening up. I can not put the screw through the spur gear. In most cases because of the pinion size I have to loosen the motor and angle the motor to get the pinion in.
As Keefy has said, you can redrill and ream a larger hole in the spur, however I would do that twice just so everything is uniform and balanced.
Regards,
Calvin.
Allright Calvin,
thank you a lot, I understand what you mean and I think I will see it exactly when I will receive my BD5WR car kit ( middle January) , ( I' looking forward for it
I still need to solve one thing, it is to find a 2nd ball ring to built a ball diff ( I' ve already ordered all the other parts of the ball diff) can someone give me the sizes of this ball diff please? (because in the manual online there is only 2 sizes and not the intern diameter)
thanks a lot and have a good day,
Nico'
#2395
is it a 8X5X2,5 mm ball ring needed?
8 is external diameter,
5 is intern diameter,
and 2,5 is width ?
8 is external diameter,
5 is intern diameter,
and 2,5 is width ?
#2396
Tech Regular
Hi Martin, i read this post of yours with interest. You say that you set droop with the shocks attached ?? Is this correct as I was always told to remove shocks when setting droop. Also do you set ride height 1st as I would think this would alter your droop setting ?? Thanks for any advise
What I do after EVERY Run is:
-Take off tires, clean them, put them aside
-Remove battery and batt-tape
-put the car on a Glassplate (I do have a glas setupboard which is abslutely necessary for proper car setup) untighten topdeck screws and make sure it's absolutely flat, if the rearend of the car is higher and won't go down onto the glassplate your chassi is broken and you do best to order a new one!
-tighten topdeckscrews and put the car on Droop blocks (Hudy in my case) and set the droop with shocks connected to 6 front, 5 rear. Sometimes I use 6.2/5 if traction is high
-After that I insert battery tape, put on the tires after I have reglued them, put a battery (just for setup) in the car and setup rideheight as following:
*set rideheight on one side of the car then take a calliper and make sure the spring tension is the same left and right ( on the bd5 it's usually something between 2.6mm and 3.0mmin front, depending on tires), do the same on the opposite side of the car.
NOTE: If the rideheight is not the same left and right after /during this process, don'T worry, that will be corrected in the next step
* now take a 2mm screwdriver, insert it into the middle screws that holds the bumper (front) or place it in the middle of the chassi (under the rib in the rear suspension block) and lift the car up so that the wheels just leave the ground.
As you have already made sure tweak, droop and spring tension are exavtly the same, the only part left is the shocktowers which tend to move on the upper bulkheads if you hit a curbing or anything hard (freshly built shocks required!).
So now if the tires won't lift off exactly the same the shocktower on the opposite side of the car is twisted. You will actually see the shocktower fall back into place as soon as you untighten the screws holding it. If you have straightened it, lift the car up again and you will find the tires to lift off equally.
Do the same on the opposite side of the car.
* With this process you get several advantages:
1, your car is always tweakfree and the wheelload is equal left and right
2, it is much more sensitive than a tweakboard ever could be
3, you actually see "where" your car is tweaked (part and wether it is the front or the rear!) which makes fixing the issue much easier
back to setup process:
- setting the camber. I use 1.5° front and 2° rear 99% of times as for me it just feels best. I set the Camber (just like pretty much any good driver) with a Camber Gauge (one like the RPM for example) as a Setup System like the Hudy is INCORRECT! The values you get from that do not match the actuall camber angle with tires on. This is absolutely important to know!! The only thing the hudy system is really usefull for is to check toe-out up front, but that I do with a calliper as it's the faster way
Having set the camber you can remove the "setup battery" and do your addative.
The whole process takes about 5-10 minutes, sometimes it goes even faster if you have not hit anything during your run.
But it's 5minutes a run absolutely worth it as you will always have a car driving properly.
Hope that helps a bit.[/QUOTE]
What I do after EVERY Run is:
-Take off tires, clean them, put them aside
-Remove battery and batt-tape
-put the car on a Glassplate (I do have a glas setupboard which is abslutely necessary for proper car setup) untighten topdeck screws and make sure it's absolutely flat, if the rearend of the car is higher and won't go down onto the glassplate your chassi is broken and you do best to order a new one!
-tighten topdeckscrews and put the car on Droop blocks (Hudy in my case) and set the droop with shocks connected to 6 front, 5 rear. Sometimes I use 6.2/5 if traction is high
-After that I insert battery tape, put on the tires after I have reglued them, put a battery (just for setup) in the car and setup rideheight as following:
*set rideheight on one side of the car then take a calliper and make sure the spring tension is the same left and right ( on the bd5 it's usually something between 2.6mm and 3.0mmin front, depending on tires), do the same on the opposite side of the car.
NOTE: If the rideheight is not the same left and right after /during this process, don'T worry, that will be corrected in the next step
* now take a 2mm screwdriver, insert it into the middle screws that holds the bumper (front) or place it in the middle of the chassi (under the rib in the rear suspension block) and lift the car up so that the wheels just leave the ground.
As you have already made sure tweak, droop and spring tension are exavtly the same, the only part left is the shocktowers which tend to move on the upper bulkheads if you hit a curbing or anything hard (freshly built shocks required!).
So now if the tires won't lift off exactly the same the shocktower on the opposite side of the car is twisted. You will actually see the shocktower fall back into place as soon as you untighten the screws holding it. If you have straightened it, lift the car up again and you will find the tires to lift off equally.
Do the same on the opposite side of the car.
* With this process you get several advantages:
1, your car is always tweakfree and the wheelload is equal left and right
2, it is much more sensitive than a tweakboard ever could be
3, you actually see "where" your car is tweaked (part and wether it is the front or the rear!) which makes fixing the issue much easier
back to setup process:
- setting the camber. I use 1.5° front and 2° rear 99% of times as for me it just feels best. I set the Camber (just like pretty much any good driver) with a Camber Gauge (one like the RPM for example) as a Setup System like the Hudy is INCORRECT! The values you get from that do not match the actuall camber angle with tires on. This is absolutely important to know!! The only thing the hudy system is really usefull for is to check toe-out up front, but that I do with a calliper as it's the faster way
Having set the camber you can remove the "setup battery" and do your addative.
The whole process takes about 5-10 minutes, sometimes it goes even faster if you have not hit anything during your run.
But it's 5minutes a run absolutely worth it as you will always have a car driving properly.
Hope that helps a bit.[/QUOTE]
#2397
Tech Apprentice
Hello
Would anyone give me some advice on how to have more on-power steering? My car keeps pushing outwards when running through the long corners.
Would anyone give me some advice on how to have more on-power steering? My car keeps pushing outwards when running through the long corners.
#2400
Tech Apprentice