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Old 12-26-2010, 05:15 AM   #2386
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all right thanks a lot, I forgot the intern ratio is different from my T3 ( 2 for BD5 and 1,9 for X ray)
so I need between 70 and 82 teeths.

where to buy Xenon spur please?

Last edited by Nico'; 12-26-2010 at 05:30 AM.
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Old 12-26-2010, 05:55 AM   #2387
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Hi,

I've found Zenon 48 Dp spur gears at RC market but there is a problem, they have no big holes to allow to adjust the space between pinion gear teeths and spur gear teeths.
How do you proceed please?

Nico'
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:20 AM   #2388
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Hi,

I've found Zenon 48 Dp spur gears at RC market but there is a problem, they have no big holes to allow to adjust the space between pinion gear teeths and spur gear teeths.
How do you proceed please?

Nico'
Use a drill+ reamer.
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:25 AM   #2389
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Or purchase R & W Racing spurs in 48 pitch. That is what I am using on my BD 5.
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:50 AM   #2390
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Or purchase R & W Racing spurs in 48 pitch. That is what I am using on my BD 5.
I discovered I have 3 of them for my 1/12 Corally, 72 teeths in 48 DP but always no big hole to adjust space between teeths.

Do you succeed to adjust space betweem teeths witj RW spurs?

Or do you use a drill?
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:52 AM   #2391
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I discovered I have 3 of them for my 1/12 Corally, 72 teeths in 48 DP but always no big hole to adjust space between teeths.

Do you succeed to adjust space betweem teeths witj RW spurs?

Or do you use a drill?
I think he has the new motor mount, with the new motor mount you don't need to worry about all this.
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Old 12-26-2010, 08:06 AM   #2392
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whats the best price you've seen on a NIB BD5 Worlds kit?
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Old 12-26-2010, 02:54 PM   #2393
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Nico,

I have a BD5 and a BD5W and I use a R & W 70 tooth spur on both cars. I also use a 2mm hex with a ball tip for tightening the motor screw. I do however place the motor screw into the motor loosely before final tightening up. I can not put the screw through the spur gear. In most cases because of the pinion size I have to loosen the motor and angle the motor to get the pinion in.

As Keefy has said, you can redrill and ream a larger hole in the spur, however I would do that twice just so everything is uniform and balanced.

Regards,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 12-26-2010 at 02:55 PM. Reason: sp
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Old 12-26-2010, 11:39 PM   #2394
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Nico,

I have a BD5 and a BD5W and I use a R & W 70 tooth spur on both cars. I also use a 2mm hex with a ball tip for tightening the motor screw. I do however place the motor screw into the motor loosely before final tightening up. I can not put the screw through the spur gear. In most cases because of the pinion size I have to loosen the motor and angle the motor to get the pinion in.

As Keefy has said, you can redrill and ream a larger hole in the spur, however I would do that twice just so everything is uniform and balanced.

Regards,

Calvin.

Allright Calvin,

thank you a lot, I understand what you mean and I think I will see it exactly when I will receive my BD5WR car kit ( middle January) , ( I' looking forward for it

I still need to solve one thing, it is to find a 2nd ball ring to built a ball diff ( I' ve already ordered all the other parts of the ball diff) can someone give me the sizes of this ball diff please? (because in the manual online there is only 2 sizes and not the intern diameter)

thanks a lot and have a good day,

Nico'
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Old 12-27-2010, 01:07 AM   #2395
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is it a 8X5X2,5 mm ball ring needed?

8 is external diameter,
5 is intern diameter,
and 2,5 is width ?
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Old 12-27-2010, 06:38 AM   #2396
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Hi Martin, i read this post of yours with interest. You say that you set droop with the shocks attached ?? Is this correct as I was always told to remove shocks when setting droop. Also do you set ride height 1st as I would think this would alter your droop setting ?? Thanks for any advise





What I do after EVERY Run is:

-Take off tires, clean them, put them aside

-Remove battery and batt-tape

-put the car on a Glassplate (I do have a glas setupboard which is abslutely necessary for proper car setup) untighten topdeck screws and make sure it's absolutely flat, if the rearend of the car is higher and won't go down onto the glassplate your chassi is broken and you do best to order a new one!

-tighten topdeckscrews and put the car on Droop blocks (Hudy in my case) and set the droop with shocks connected to 6 front, 5 rear. Sometimes I use 6.2/5 if traction is high

-After that I insert battery tape, put on the tires after I have reglued them, put a battery (just for setup) in the car and setup rideheight as following:

*set rideheight on one side of the car then take a calliper and make sure the spring tension is the same left and right ( on the bd5 it's usually something between 2.6mm and 3.0mmin front, depending on tires), do the same on the opposite side of the car.
NOTE: If the rideheight is not the same left and right after /during this process, don'T worry, that will be corrected in the next step

* now take a 2mm screwdriver, insert it into the middle screws that holds the bumper (front) or place it in the middle of the chassi (under the rib in the rear suspension block) and lift the car up so that the wheels just leave the ground.

As you have already made sure tweak, droop and spring tension are exavtly the same, the only part left is the shocktowers which tend to move on the upper bulkheads if you hit a curbing or anything hard (freshly built shocks required!).

So now if the tires won't lift off exactly the same the shocktower on the opposite side of the car is twisted. You will actually see the shocktower fall back into place as soon as you untighten the screws holding it. If you have straightened it, lift the car up again and you will find the tires to lift off equally.
Do the same on the opposite side of the car.

* With this process you get several advantages:
1, your car is always tweakfree and the wheelload is equal left and right
2, it is much more sensitive than a tweakboard ever could be
3, you actually see "where" your car is tweaked (part and wether it is the front or the rear!) which makes fixing the issue much easier

back to setup process:

- setting the camber. I use 1.5 front and 2 rear 99% of times as for me it just feels best. I set the Camber (just like pretty much any good driver) with a Camber Gauge (one like the RPM for example) as a Setup System like the Hudy is INCORRECT! The values you get from that do not match the actuall camber angle with tires on. This is absolutely important to know!! The only thing the hudy system is really usefull for is to check toe-out up front, but that I do with a calliper as it's the faster way

Having set the camber you can remove the "setup battery" and do your addative.
The whole process takes about 5-10 minutes, sometimes it goes even faster if you have not hit anything during your run.
But it's 5minutes a run absolutely worth it as you will always have a car driving properly.

Hope that helps a bit.[/QUOTE]
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:27 PM   #2397
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Hello

Would anyone give me some advice on how to have more on-power steering? My car keeps pushing outwards when running through the long corners.
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:43 PM   #2398
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Hello

Would anyone give me some advice on how to have more on-power steering? My car keeps pushing outwards when running through the long corners.
Try lengthening the front wheelbase (1mm on back of front arm), and also try 1.5mm inner front camberlink shim. You can also try Arm sweep (42fr block and 43.5ff block) and front shock position in 2nd from bottom.
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:45 PM   #2399
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Hello

Would anyone give me some advice on how to have more on-power steering? My car keeps pushing outwards when running through the long corners.
Mount the wing in a more forward position.
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:29 PM   #2400
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Try lengthening the front wheelbase (1mm on back of front arm), and also try 1.5mm inner front camberlink shim. You can also try Arm sweep (42fr block and 43.5ff block) and front shock position in 2nd from bottom.
Thanks very much. Will give it a try!
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