Tamiya TRF415
#9511
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
Originally Posted by pete68
hi !
if i have a trf 415 can it be converted to a 415msx but keeping the 415 suspension or i have to change it to the ms version first !!
thanks!!
Pete68
if i have a trf 415 can it be converted to a 415msx but keeping the 415 suspension or i have to change it to the ms version first !!
thanks!!
Pete68
#9512
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Kevin CBR: thats basically what I'm talking about... Guess I'll have to chop the pins down... wheres my dremmel
Neosan: I got mine from Rainbow Ten. Part #49358. Link: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=49358
HiH
Ed
Neosan: I got mine from Rainbow Ten. Part #49358. Link: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=49358
HiH
Ed
#9513
Tech Apprentice
I got the new Tamiya spool from RainbowTen. Part number 49358.
#9514
If you are going to chop down pins get some xray inner hinge pins the material
is far better than the tamiya hinge pins.
James
is far better than the tamiya hinge pins.
James
#9515
Thank you guys !!!
I think is late... I've seen the list and is gone !!!
I think is late... I've seen the list and is gone !!!
#9516
Originally Posted by TryHard
Junn,
One Question first, what tyres? Most of what I say here refers to rubbers... other people shoudl be able to help with foams.
Regarding the LWT suspension, If you get an MS version, you won't need the conversion, as the car already comes with it. If it's the std car your looking at, deffiently consider the LWT kit, if more than anything for the wider range of shock position tuning it offers.
For the Worlds kit (the other part you mention) the bar things are the narrow suspension blocks (generally refered to as the X series blocks). Basically on a 415, you can change the inboard toe angle (and width of the car) by changing these blocks. The range goes (widest to narrowest) D, C, B, A, X, XA, XB, XC, XD, each with a 0.5deg change in toe angle, but also with a progressively narrower car. I.E. a D/B combination provides 1 deg, as does a B/X, however the B/X will result in a narrower car than D/B.
To be honest, the X series blocks are not a must have on their own to start with, although they do have some benifits 1) if you get the worlds kit, you also get 0deg toe-in alloy hubs (a very wise buy... holds the smaller, 950 size hub bearings better, reducing failure, which the 950's are prone too), all the toe is set inboard, and then the X series make more sense. ie D/XA produces 3deg of toe, which is probably a good bet for mod.
2) On the front, the blocks can be flipped (as is shown in this pic: block flip ) allowing more options of tuning on the front, a favourite being running inboard toe-out (usually around 1deg).
One other usuful thing to get with the car is a Spool. I've recently been running the new tamiya one with delrin outdrives, it's very nice, and provides a very useful performance boost. Of course you need a locked centre pulley to replace the 1-way pulley, but if you get a worlds kit, you get one anyway.
Other bits and bobs: For the std car, MS spec shock towers work well with LWT suspension, also the DJ suspension is pretty spot on too, but not a must have to start with. The belt stabiliser is a good bet too, as are the white belts (although I have heard the Echo ones are good too), but not sure if these are required for an MS.
Apart from that, stock up on the usual's (wishbones, C-hubs, steering blocks), as well as getting a good range of the previously mentioned suspension blocks (at least 2 of each... but does depend which car, std or MS)
Hopefully some of it makes sense.... it'll make more when you get a 415
Anymore questions feel free to ask
Oh and one final thing... have a look at the link in my sig. Admitadly I haven't updated it in a while, but as I've now graduated uni (2:1 baby!), I have more time on my hands to put to that sort of thing. I have a few more setups and extras to put on there... some time in the nearish future
Phew long post.....NEXT!
One Question first, what tyres? Most of what I say here refers to rubbers... other people shoudl be able to help with foams.
Regarding the LWT suspension, If you get an MS version, you won't need the conversion, as the car already comes with it. If it's the std car your looking at, deffiently consider the LWT kit, if more than anything for the wider range of shock position tuning it offers.
For the Worlds kit (the other part you mention) the bar things are the narrow suspension blocks (generally refered to as the X series blocks). Basically on a 415, you can change the inboard toe angle (and width of the car) by changing these blocks. The range goes (widest to narrowest) D, C, B, A, X, XA, XB, XC, XD, each with a 0.5deg change in toe angle, but also with a progressively narrower car. I.E. a D/B combination provides 1 deg, as does a B/X, however the B/X will result in a narrower car than D/B.
To be honest, the X series blocks are not a must have on their own to start with, although they do have some benifits 1) if you get the worlds kit, you also get 0deg toe-in alloy hubs (a very wise buy... holds the smaller, 950 size hub bearings better, reducing failure, which the 950's are prone too), all the toe is set inboard, and then the X series make more sense. ie D/XA produces 3deg of toe, which is probably a good bet for mod.
2) On the front, the blocks can be flipped (as is shown in this pic: block flip ) allowing more options of tuning on the front, a favourite being running inboard toe-out (usually around 1deg).
One other usuful thing to get with the car is a Spool. I've recently been running the new tamiya one with delrin outdrives, it's very nice, and provides a very useful performance boost. Of course you need a locked centre pulley to replace the 1-way pulley, but if you get a worlds kit, you get one anyway.
Other bits and bobs: For the std car, MS spec shock towers work well with LWT suspension, also the DJ suspension is pretty spot on too, but not a must have to start with. The belt stabiliser is a good bet too, as are the white belts (although I have heard the Echo ones are good too), but not sure if these are required for an MS.
Apart from that, stock up on the usual's (wishbones, C-hubs, steering blocks), as well as getting a good range of the previously mentioned suspension blocks (at least 2 of each... but does depend which car, std or MS)
Hopefully some of it makes sense.... it'll make more when you get a 415
Anymore questions feel free to ask
Oh and one final thing... have a look at the link in my sig. Admitadly I haven't updated it in a while, but as I've now graduated uni (2:1 baby!), I have more time on my hands to put to that sort of thing. I have a few more setups and extras to put on there... some time in the nearish future
Phew long post.....NEXT!
thanks for your time, I didnt realise there was so much to setting up a 415. Thats why someone said the Xray was easier to setup because of the pivot ball suspension, but I am still going with the 415
The 415 I am buying is standard, second hand. I am definately geting the LW suspension and the MS upgrade kit and the MS shock towers but I am confused about the DJ suspension, can you have that and the LW kit installed at the same time?
what does installing the front blocks upside down achieve? whenyou say that you can create toe out on the front is that inboard as well and not in the turnbuckles?
Sorry for the 20 questions
thanks for your help, oh yeah, I am running rubbers, dont like foams
#9517
D6 gearing
Hi
one more question, whats a good pinion/spur setup for a Trinity D6 12 turn d?
its a short windy track, thats for a 415
thanks again
one more question, whats a good pinion/spur setup for a Trinity D6 12 turn d?
its a short windy track, thats for a 415
thanks again
#9518
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Junn, If you are running 48 pitch, I like to work with a 78t spur. As for pinions, depends on what size tracks you race at. With a 12x2 D6 I would probably start with a FDR of 8.00-7.50. It really comes down to your track size & layout.
So that would be a 78t spur & a 22-23 pinion. The internal ratio of the 415 is 2.187/1.
Since your on rubbers, thats a roll out of 25mm-26mm.
So that would be a 78t spur & a 22-23 pinion. The internal ratio of the 415 is 2.187/1.
Since your on rubbers, thats a roll out of 25mm-26mm.
#9519
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by junn
Try Hard you da man!!!!!!
thanks for your time, I didnt realise there was so much to setting up a 415. Thats why someone said the Xray was easier to setup because of the pivot ball suspension, but I am still going with the 415
thanks for your time, I didnt realise there was so much to setting up a 415. Thats why someone said the Xray was easier to setup because of the pivot ball suspension, but I am still going with the 415
To be honest though, the range of adjustments on the 415 is one of the things I like about it (and I'm sure others hate) because there is always something new to try out. I've been running the car for well over a year now, and am still nowhere near finished trying things out on the car. Don't worry though, the base setup is pretty spot on, I just like to fiddle
Originally Posted by junn
The 415 I am buying is standard, second hand. I am definately geting the LW suspension and the MS upgrade kit and the MS shock towers but I am confused about the DJ suspension, can you have that and the LW kit installed at the same time?
Originally Posted by junn
what does installing the front blocks upside down achieve? whenyou say that you can create toe out on the front is that inboard as well and not in the turnbuckles?
To solve this problem, a number of racers modified there other blocks, allowing them to be "flipped", and pushed up with spacers, so they could clear the belts. The X-series blocks are already modified to allow them to be flipped from the off (they even come with the required spacers), as displayed in the pic.
One other advantage is that it allows you to drop the rear hinge pin point, relative to the front. Whilst adding kick-up, it also lowers the roll centre.
Regarding inboard toe, I tend to find it adds mid-corner steering to the car, which is espesically useful with a spool. I was running 1.5deg on inboard, but have now dropped back to 1deg. At the moment thats a C/A combo, but i have the std suspension on for indoor running, outdoor I was running A/XA
Originally Posted by junn
Sorry for the 20 questions
thanks for your help, oh yeah, I am running rubbers, dont like foams
thanks for your help, oh yeah, I am running rubbers, dont like foams
Ed
#9521
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Heya Guys.
Just wondering if anyone had any experience with running toe out on the arms of the 415.
I want to achieve 1.5 toe in on my 415, problem is i only have the 2 degree rear hubs.
So what if i used a D block and a C block on the rear, that should give 1.5 using the 2degree rear hubs.
Would there be any issues setting it up this way?
Thanks.
Glenn
p.s this is the standard suspension by the way!
pps if anyone has any good setups for outdoor asphalt please let me know!
Just wondering if anyone had any experience with running toe out on the arms of the 415.
I want to achieve 1.5 toe in on my 415, problem is i only have the 2 degree rear hubs.
So what if i used a D block and a C block on the rear, that should give 1.5 using the 2degree rear hubs.
Would there be any issues setting it up this way?
Thanks.
Glenn
p.s this is the standard suspension by the way!
pps if anyone has any good setups for outdoor asphalt please let me know!
#9522
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
hmmm....
I think I've tried that before, it works, but be wary of a couple of points. It will lengthen your wheelbase for one, so that might need to be adjusted (stick a 2mm shim behind the arm). I'm pretty sure it affect the way the suspension works in some complicated way too.. just i can't explain it
Best bet is too either leave it a 2deg (ie D/D) or get the 1deg hard rear uprights.
For setups, take a look at the link in my sig, not sure theres any for outdoor asphalt with std suspension though.
HiH
Ed
(and yes, i'm currently stuck at home, bored silly.... hence the quick replies I hate being unemployed)
I think I've tried that before, it works, but be wary of a couple of points. It will lengthen your wheelbase for one, so that might need to be adjusted (stick a 2mm shim behind the arm). I'm pretty sure it affect the way the suspension works in some complicated way too.. just i can't explain it
Best bet is too either leave it a 2deg (ie D/D) or get the 1deg hard rear uprights.
For setups, take a look at the link in my sig, not sure theres any for outdoor asphalt with std suspension though.
HiH
Ed
(and yes, i'm currently stuck at home, bored silly.... hence the quick replies I hate being unemployed)