tony q

iTrader: (35)

nope, i haven't rebuild my diff since i got mine last year. its still smooth.

razzo

same here.. 30+ packs through (carpet foam/stock) and still smooth as new. Been getting about 50 runs before rebuild. This with almost completely locked rear diff. Using yok parts for front diff, and that one hasn't been rebuilt since last fall, and it's still butter smooth.

One thing noticist at least on my car, diff gets crunchy from diff lube flying out from main ball/rings. Not the usual thrust bearing. Diffs balls been getting flat spotted, and deep gauge on the rings, causing diff to go bad (even with carbide balls). Changed to thicker diff lube last rebuild (been using AE clear, but changed to Green Aero-Lube) and diff lube doesn't seem to flying out of the diff as much.

koabich

Hey giys, I am wondering if someone can help me out. What is the difference between the Suspension blocks that come with the Standard 415 and the Suspension blocks that come with the 415MS. The 415MS all have an "X" marked on them.

TRF415boy

you mean the worlds kit ? The MS doesn't have the X-blocks, it comes with the normal blocks, but the worlds kit comes with X-A --> X-D that are narrower than the usual ones.

koabich

Sorry for the confusion, yes you are correct!
Thanks!!

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Tamiya Hard Rear Upright
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=245&id=1710

Tamiya TA04 Toe-In rear upright set
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=245&id=1714


Thanks for the info....so the Hard Upright gives 1deg and the Toe-in upright is basically the stock 2deg 415 pieces.

--------------------

Ran my 415 for the first time w/ rubber tires on carpet last night. The car was much smoother then my Pro4 out of the corners...very stable all around even with the double one-ways.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Yup on the blocks, I checked this this evening, the Hard set is deffiently 1deg, and the Toe-In set deffiently 2 deg.
I swtiched during the evening to check.
Measured 2deg toe in with the Hard hubs and D-B blocks (1deg inboard), and then swtiched to the Toe-In hubs and D-C blocks (0.5deg inboard), measured 2.5deg.

BTW it also looks like the hard set uses slightly less carbon/graphite in the moulding, when comparing the two sets, it looks more blakc plasticy, whilst the toe-in set has the smae level of graphite as the std arms.

On a different note, I had some BIG problems tonight with my car, felt soooo nervous to drive, made it very hard.
Anyway, managed to trace it down to the lowered steering rack....
Basically, if your running the lowered rack (a la Marc R worlds setup), with the std suspesion you need only 3mm of shims underneath.... otherwise you get a VERY nervous and twitchy car (i assume it relates to bump steering)
Actually thining about it, I've run it like that for the past few meetings... even the BIWS finals... guess the really high grip levels and tight and twisty track from this evening showed it off to it's worst. Oh well live and learn (still managed to Q 9th in the C... Finished 2nd )

HiH
Ed

ttso

iTrader: (1)

Got chance to run my 415 with Novak SS5800 brushless today (with crappy old battery..). The performance is very satisfied, especially on direction changing. But I do found the motor is kind too easy to be scratched if I run too close to shoulder...

Key

iTrader: (1)

I have a TRF 415 steering link question. Just wondering where you can find those plastic 'o' ring holders that replace the plastic ball cups on the steering?

Here is a pic just to have an idea.

BrainTeased

iTrader: (4)

who still runs on asphalt with the std 415 kit with good results?

KoE

iTrader: (6)

do i have to invert the xblock when used in rear of front susp ? the belt kinda scraping the block lightly

stonedgti

iTrader: (15)

Yes you do, and also add a 3mm shim underneath.

Ill Factor

iTrader: (2)

Can anyone tell me if the 2.5mm MS lower deck chassis will work with the stock 415 parts? I would like to be able to move to the 2.5mm chassis if possible.

Jonas

Hello guys,

I run my 415 for 4 month now and i find it very very difficult to drive... It's like this car likes agressive drive and likes to be puch all over the 5min round.... I have a smooth and cool drive...I can't push the car because i don't' find it much more adaptable to me...

Firstly it's not a set up problem,...the car is always well because if another good driver drives it, he gets better run and far better laps than me and the car handles in the same way......

Just now, the car drives me mad on track because i'm not sure to be pleased by the car,....It didn't make any difference between the first run/first time and my last race....I'm not enjoy the way i have to drive......

So excuse me to unfortunate but just want to know if most of you ever notice this require or it's only me who have a problem.....

PS: It's a very good car and i like the way it is.....Good potential but not in my hands.....

V12

iTrader: (1)

I know some guys here used the old suspension on the 415MS for carpet racing. But as the holes for the suspension blocks are much closer you won´t be able changing the wheelbase. But from what I heard the fixed wheelbase is in a perfect position.
I also think of the 2.5mm chassis as this should work better outdoors than the 3mm.