mrx

iTrader: (19)

Need your opinion on this jp p7l tune engine, how do you guys break-in this and what are the best pipe to go along with? Any precaution or attention on this new jp line of engines? Is the engine came shimmed for 25% of nitro? Any comment is greatly appreciated.

Happy racing

ALG

this is an email sent by JP for breaking in.

"Breaking procedure.
First time, 3 fuel tank on the bench with propeller with 5% of castor oil added inside the fuel normally used (25%). (Hudy tool is OK)
A good way is to use your filler (bottle used for refuel the car) and add inside 20cc of castor oil (it’s close to the volume of a 24x36 film box). Like that you make the quantity you need easily.
After that, you fix the engine on the car, and run with the same fuel ( castor oil added) and your engine riche. The temperature must be around 80°C to 85°C.
We use 2 fillers with the castor oil added in the fuel in a first time (1 liter in total). The third filler, when it’s come empty (half) we add fuel inside (no oil anymore), you do that 1 time again.
During this braking procedure you go with the engine really rich at first and step by step more lean. 80°c to 95°C
After that you can go with the normal fuel and step by step make a right adjustment of your engine. 110°C to 130°C
This breaking procedure is important now because the engines are more tight and the piston is more easy to damage with racing fuel during the critical time who is the breaking procedure.
I hope this information is able to help you in the breaking procedure of your JP Engine.

Best Regards,

J-Paul Calandreau"

Hope it helps you.

Have fun and you have made a great choice with JP engines

mrx

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for the info bro, so do i need to add extra head shim when breaking in using 25% nitro?

ALG

That engine comes shim for 25% nitro,
I would recomend for run in the engine to go with a 16% nitro if possible, if not use your same racing fuel and add some oil as explain on the above quote from JP.

have fun and keep us posted on your engine.

btw what pipe are you using?

mrx

iTrader: (19)

I see there are two .30 alu and one .10 copper shim in it, do i remove the copper shim after the breakin? I have heard some says using Cyrul breakin method work best on Novarossi base engine and alot of guys around here were using his method too with great success. I really dont know which is the best pipe for this engine by now i have nova 9886, rb 086, picco 7206 and ninja fls 2053. I will try the ninja for breakin this engine, what other pipe are recommended?

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Leave the shims the way it is if using 25% fuel.

You got a few options, Nova Rossi/JP EFRA 2015 with a medium conical header, the Max 2018 pipe set also works good with this engine, the pipe that will give you the most power will be the 2052 but it burns more fuel, and if run time is not an issue then go with the 2052, now on your existing list of pipe the best will be the 9886.

ALG

This is OK, Sam or Nigel is correct.

The 2015 or the 2018 is the pipe to use, but for raw power go with 2052, the only problem with this pipe is the run time.

have fum

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Andy,
What have you been racing more lately, on-road or off-road?

Roelof

The last time I am usint the JP 2031 and the new 3036 and I must say that both are very good pipes.

mrx

iTrader: (19)

Finally broken in during the weekend and i was very happy with it. I use cyrul method and add some more castro in the 25% fuel as mention from jp itself and i found that the engine is little unstable with the rpm especially at the last two tank of the whole process! Temps were in 195-200 after 10 tanks and i start to run it on the track for another tank and seems like the engine sometimes rev up quickly and slow down to the point that the car barely move with full throttle. Any ideal?

mrx

iTrader: (19)

Finally broken in during the weekend and i was very happy with it. I use cyrul method and add some more castro in the 25% fuel as mention from jp itself and i found that the engine is little unstable with the rpm especially at the last two tank of the whole process! Temps were in 195-200 after 10 tanks and i start to run it on the track for another tank and seems like the engine sometimes rev up quickly and slow down to the point that the car barely move with full throttle. Any ideal?

mrx

iTrader: (19)

Finally broken in during the weekend and i was very happy with it. I use cyrul method and add some more castro in the 25% fuel as mention from jp itself and i found that the engine is little unstable with the rpm especially at the last two tank of the whole process! Temps were in 195-200 after 10 tanks and i start to run it on the track for another tank and seems like the engine sometimes rev up quickly and slow down to the point that the car barely move with full throttle. Any ideal?

mrx

iTrader: (19)

So sorry.....triple post

ALG

looks like you are lean on the high needle, this engines get better with age, like the red wine. looks as the engine has not finished the run-in prooces.

the engine will show its potencial still run the engine on the rich side and you will notice when to lean it

Have fun

mrx

iTrader: (19)

The high end needle is sticking out from the housing about 1 1/2 turn out and i think the engine is too rich, the car will not barely move forward at a stop point and i guess i have to run in the engine more.....thanks for everything guys.