Twist 2 Go

Hey everyone. The **NEW** NTC3 Tuning Guide is now available on the AE website.

thefuzzclub

TO THE EXPERTS:
I had a bad experienced on my RTR NTC3(2 speed). Yesterday, the servo for throttle got stocked up on full throttle(45mph+) and the car wont respond to my radio anymore. The car went out of control and crashed to the side walk. Broken parts are: front upper differential case, differential axle and twisted chassis

1. How can you prevent this to happen.
2. What is the effect of a twisted chassis? I am not racing, just bashing on parking lots. Will you recommend to change it? I haven't tried runing the car again so I dont know yet. Need your inputs please.

torchedlh

depends how it got stuck at full throttle.. if the servo linkage fell off, you're going to want to get a throttle return spring. if your radio just loss reception or the rx pack went low, you're going to need a failsafe which automatically puts the brakes on when it detecs these scenarios. anyway you should both.

Dbackmasta

Raced for the first time on Friday. Started with copper front and gold rear, with 40 shore on all four corners. That only laste for the warm up, because it was horrible. Back end came around on every corner. Went to Yellow up front, with 45 shore in front. THat seemed to work well. I might go to 60 wt oil in front to keep some more weight over the rear. I'm running a mugen mt-12 with the stock pipe and 20 percent. It's running at like 260. I was wondering if you guys are experiencing high temps with the stock pipe?

2Fast4U2

The pipe has nothing to do with temp. Richen the top end if that is to high for you. 260 is not high. 220-270 is not bad, Run it at what temp you need to. It will last over a year at 250. I know people that have run their MT at 250-300 and its almost 2 years old. Still runs good. Its wore out. But he still runs it 250-300 and has had no issues. Minus a glow plug here and there.

Baker has a set up on the AE site that works good all around.
Try a front Blade sway bar. And a rear sway. I have learned that on the AE car that if your going into a corner and its spins out. The rear of the car is to soft. Un loading the inside tire. Try Red in the back. I think that it is one rate stiffer.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

have any of us reached a conclusion on who has teh best centax clutch yet?......

also,anyone pop a 4 stroke in yet?...

finchy

hey fastharry,
have you tried any of the centax clutches out yet. If so which do you think is the best, I've being trying to get an answer from anyone on the forum, but no replies yet.

NTC3NUT

I have the Kawahara, and I love it. I think the K-Factory is the only other game in town. Your choice, both offer similar features for about the same price, depending on where you get them. I think Kawahara has the better reputation of the two.

2Fast4U2

Mr. Nut.- how is the durability of that clutch and how often do you take it apart. Just wondering the Maintenence frequency.
I take my care fairly apart once a week. But i would not want to have to mess with it on a race day. One great thing about that NTC3 is the ease of cleaning. Just remove radio tray, Engine, tank- and a can of Buggy blast. and its clean. Then check the bearing and stuff. Got to be the easiest car to clean I have ever worked on. That is one reason i like it.

Ahhhh, snowing today.
Were you up in cinci for last years nats? I was. Cool track.

NTC3NUT

I was in Cinnci for the Worlds (didn't race, just watched), track is awesome. The centax thrust bearing has to be greased every 3-4 runs. It is possible to do it with the motor in the car, but as you said the cars easy to take apart, so I always pulled the motor. I too tore mine down every weekend to clean it & check things out. It's a VERY easy car to maintain. The only other thing I had to do to my centax all season was to add a shim or two after its initial use. I think once it's set-up it's good to go for awhile. There is an infinate adjustability to this clutch.

thefuzzclub

Thanks for the asuggestion. I ordered the venum fail safe already.
while i'm waiting for my new chassis, temporarily i fixed the car
i replaced the front upper transmission case and straightened my drive shaft with a hammer. obviously, i can't seem to bring it back to its original straight form, but it can still be used. anyway, i still manage to put it back and tried running the car again. for me the speed is still awesome even on a stock .12 motor. but one thing is so noticable. the car is not as steady as before, when i pull the throttle hard, the car strongly veers to the right. when I release it to medium throttle, the car goes a little left. in short, it is now hard to run the car in a straight line. this is what you call tweaked right? i hope my term is correct. one reason i surely know is i have to change the chassis which i will surely do. what about my disaligned drive shaft? does it contribute to the massive turning of the car when I pull the throttle hard? need you thoughts again.

saka

check your front diff case if it's cracked or has play, droop (even) and shock if there in working order (same tension, balanced).

fuse01

ntc3nut,

do you have to shim up before the flywheel for the centax?
the gears does not line up with the spurs.

i still have problem with it.. no engaugement at low speed .. spring collor is at .02 screw in. unlock somemore n the screw will drop out.....

using kawahara centax please help..

when i tighten down the screw the car needs to spool up alot before it suddenly shoots out. very unforgiving.

Boomer

Fuzz, it does sound like you're tweaked. Have you checked your tweak? TO A POINT, you can fix this problem just by adjusting the preload on your shocks.

The shaft shouldn't have anything to do with pulling one way or the other.

BUT, I did the same thing and my LOWER case was also broken, but just not as obviously as the upper. When I would hit the throttle it would give just a touch which would change the entire angle of the front end, making me pull to one side. . .sounds like that may be a problem too.

To check it, twist on your shock tower and see if you have any play. . .if you do, check all three pieces (upper, lower and shock tower) to see if you have any breaks.

G'Luck to ya!

InitialD

fuse01, I'm not too familiar with the Centax on the NTC3 but it does sound that you have spacing problems. You spacing in between the bell housing and the shoe may be too far from each other and hence the reason why after revving hard it engages, even after loosening the spring.

I think you need to add shims in between the flywheel and the engine front bearing to narrow this gap... The gap should be about 0.5 to 0.7 mm. Be careful not to add 0.1 mm shims there or else you'll damage the engine front bearing. Use thicker shims first against the bearing and then later on put thinner shims if you need to.