Engine Wars Thread
08-21-2003, 08:34 PM
#76
Tech Fanatic
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
This is looks like real difference between turbo and regular plug. But if you pay attencion to the turbo thred-you will know it is much finner. I think it is easier to damge it if some debry will get there-specialy aluminum-it will ruined in second, but I am not sure, it just seems for me like this. What I saw in a lot of engines-which is realy shoked me-a lot of people use head shims made out of cooper-I would never do it, only soft AL.
This is looks like real difference between turbo and regular plug. But if you pay attencion to the turbo thred-you will know it is much finner. I think it is easier to damge it if some debry will get there-specialy aluminum-it will ruined in second, but I am not sure, it just seems for me like this. What I saw in a lot of engines-which is realy shoked me-a lot of people use head shims made out of cooper-I would never do it, only soft AL.
08-21-2003, 08:37 PM
#77
08-21-2003, 08:40 PM
#78
Tech Fanatic
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Vinyard
Anyway.. one question thou..
Like in 1:1 scale cars and motorbikes, I do check the plugs to see if my motor is burning fuel right.
Is there a guideline to check the plugs if my R/C engines is burning fuel in the optimium level??
Anyway.. one question thou..
Like in 1:1 scale cars and motorbikes, I do check the plugs to see if my motor is burning fuel right.
Is there a guideline to check the plugs if my R/C engines is burning fuel in the optimium level??
OS and Turbo glow plugs go gray sooner [easier] than McCoy plugs; this is not necessarily bad. Actually when A new plug wire just goes slightly gray after a 5 or 10 minute hard run it means your very close to an optimal horsepower tune, but be careful the next step is TOO LEAN!
My rule of thumb.
1} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum power 85%
2} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%
3} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted optimum power 100%
4} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = slightly lean DANGER!
5} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = extremely lean possible engine damage!
Note: You can only "Read" your plug in a nearly new state [Wire like new and shiny] A gray plug can still operate well. But after it has totally gone gray performance can start to fall off. To test just put in a new plug and if there is no difference in performance save the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or run right tray a new plug before making major tune change's
Good luck,
Ron Paris
08-21-2003, 08:43 PM
#79
Originally posted by EVOLUTION
How to "READ" your glow plug.
OS and Turbo glow plugs go gray sooner [easier] than McCoy plugs; this is not necessarily bad. Actually when A new plug wire just goes slightly gray after a 5 or 10 minute hard run it means your very close to an optimal horsepower tune, but be careful the next step is TOO LEAN!
My rule of thumb.
1} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum power 85%
2} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%
3} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted optimum power 100%
4} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = slightly lean DANGER!
5} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = extremely lean possible engine damage!
Note: You can only "Read" your plug in a nearly new state [Wire like new and shiny] A gray plug can still operate well. But after it has totally gone gray performance can start to fall off. To test just put in a new plug and if there is no difference in performance save the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or run right tray a new plug before making major tune change's
Good luck,
Ron Paris
How to "READ" your glow plug.
OS and Turbo glow plugs go gray sooner [easier] than McCoy plugs; this is not necessarily bad. Actually when A new plug wire just goes slightly gray after a 5 or 10 minute hard run it means your very close to an optimal horsepower tune, but be careful the next step is TOO LEAN!
My rule of thumb.
1} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum power 85%
2} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%
3} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted optimum power 100%
4} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = slightly lean DANGER!
5} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = extremely lean possible engine damage!
Note: You can only "Read" your plug in a nearly new state [Wire like new and shiny] A gray plug can still operate well. But after it has totally gone gray performance can start to fall off. To test just put in a new plug and if there is no difference in performance save the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or run right tray a new plug before making major tune change's
Good luck,
Ron Paris
08-21-2003, 08:45 PM
#80
Originally posted by eddiethefish
Any automation tool like Plug-n-Read for the Glow Plug?
Any automation tool like Plug-n-Read for the Glow Plug?
08-21-2003, 08:49 PM
#81
Tech Fanatic
Thread Starter
Originally posted by eddiethefish
Any automation tool like Plug-n-Read for the Glow Plug?
Any automation tool like Plug-n-Read for the Glow Plug?
I personally hardly do this cause you will more then likely cause dirt and dust to go into the engine but sometimes if you are running a glowplug in different conditions plus other factors like new nitro % it can help in diagnosis.
08-21-2003, 08:50 PM
#82
Originally posted by Manticore
i am interested to know 2 ~
i am interested to know 2 ~
I guess it's the same idea people change the car oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Though, as we know, it does not have to be at 3,000 and the oil filter does not have to get replaced that often.
$0.020
08-21-2003, 08:54 PM
#83
Tech Fanatic
Thread Starter
Originally posted by eddiethefish
Ridley's? I change my plug every two months. Don't really have any particular reason, but don't mind to spend extra $5 every two months though.
I guess it's the same idea people change the car oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Though, as we know, it does not have to be at 3,000 and the oil filter does not have to get replaced that often.
$0.020
Ridley's? I change my plug every two months. Don't really have any particular reason, but don't mind to spend extra $5 every two months though.
I guess it's the same idea people change the car oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Though, as we know, it does not have to be at 3,000 and the oil filter does not have to get replaced that often.
$0.020
08-21-2003, 08:58 PM
#84
Tech Elite
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the mystery of glo plugs.....
I talked with a gentleman at McCoy plugs,about 6 years ago..
he said he was the father.....
He talked about the difficulty of making a really good plug....I came away thinking its just not a welded filament...
one thing stuck in my mind......he said the best plug at the time was a #8 OS plug...that it was different than any of the other plugs on the market,including the other OS's..
After studying it for months,he still couldn't figure out why...
he also said he couldn't duplicate the material in that plug...
whats that got to do with turbo plugs?.....It goes to show,that no matter how simple it looks,every part of an RC car gets alot of thought....Sometimes more then we give credit for..
I talked with a gentleman at McCoy plugs,about 6 years ago..
he said he was the father.....
He talked about the difficulty of making a really good plug....I came away thinking its just not a welded filament...
one thing stuck in my mind......he said the best plug at the time was a #8 OS plug...that it was different than any of the other plugs on the market,including the other OS's..
After studying it for months,he still couldn't figure out why...
he also said he couldn't duplicate the material in that plug...
whats that got to do with turbo plugs?.....It goes to show,that no matter how simple it looks,every part of an RC car gets alot of thought....Sometimes more then we give credit for..
08-21-2003, 09:00 PM
#85
Originally posted by EVOLUTION
Fish,stop wasting money.
Fish,stop wasting money.
08-21-2003, 10:11 PM
#86
Originally posted by eddiethefish
couldn't help it, got too much of it.
couldn't help it, got too much of it.
08-21-2003, 10:19 PM
#87
Originally posted by Vinyard
Sent some over.. i'll help you with it.
Sent some over.. i'll help you with it.
08-21-2003, 10:48 PM
#88
Originally posted by fastharry
...one thing stuck in my mind......he said the best plug at the time was a #8 OS plug...that it was different than any of the other plugs on the market,including the other OS's..
After studying it for months,he still couldn't figure out why...
he also said he couldn't duplicate the material in that plug....
...one thing stuck in my mind......he said the best plug at the time was a #8 OS plug...that it was different than any of the other plugs on the market,including the other OS's..
After studying it for months,he still couldn't figure out why...
he also said he couldn't duplicate the material in that plug....
Very enlightening to hear that quote. Helped confirm my belief that the OS 8 plug is the best one I've ever found. Intriuging to see that an engine expert agrees. But I haven't had the chance to try the Odonnel 77 though, which seems to be extremely popular now (not available to me unfortunately).
08-21-2003, 10:48 PM
#89
Originally posted by eddiethefish
And, you'll gladly offer to pay for shipping cost, right?
And, you'll gladly offer to pay for shipping cost, right?
Would you like some WD40 too??
08-21-2003, 11:47 PM
#90
If you like the 77 try the 99 for humid days.