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Old 08-21-2003, 09:34 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
This is looks like real difference between turbo and regular plug. But if you pay attencion to the turbo thred-you will know it is much finner. I think it is easier to damge it if some debry will get there-specialy aluminum-it will ruined in second, but I am not sure, it just seems for me like this. What I saw in a lot of engines-which is realy shoked me-a lot of people use head shims made out of cooper-I would never do it, only soft AL.
This is why they are not recommended for off road use.You have to make sure there is no dirt around the plug and head otherwise it will effect sealing.
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:37 PM   #77
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check this out, he knew better then any one of us !
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:40 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vinyard


Anyway.. one question thou..
Like in 1:1 scale cars and motorbikes, I do check the plugs to see if my motor is burning fuel right.
Is there a guideline to check the plugs if my R/C engines is burning fuel in the optimium level??
How to "READ" your glow plug.
OS and Turbo glow plugs go gray sooner [easier] than McCoy plugs; this is not necessarily bad. Actually when A new plug wire just goes slightly gray after a 5 or 10 minute hard run it means your very close to an optimal horsepower tune, but be careful the next step is TOO LEAN!
My rule of thumb.
1} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum power 85%
2} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%
3} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted optimum power 100%
4} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = slightly lean DANGER!
5} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = extremely lean possible engine damage!

Note: You can only "Read" your plug in a nearly new state [Wire like new and shiny] A gray plug can still operate well. But after it has totally gone gray performance can start to fall off. To test just put in a new plug and if there is no difference in performance save the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or run right tray a new plug before making major tune change's

Good luck,
Ron Paris
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:43 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOLUTION
How to "READ" your glow plug.
OS and Turbo glow plugs go gray sooner [easier] than McCoy plugs; this is not necessarily bad. Actually when A new plug wire just goes slightly gray after a 5 or 10 minute hard run it means your very close to an optimal horsepower tune, but be careful the next step is TOO LEAN!
My rule of thumb.
1} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum power 85%
2} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%
3} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted optimum power 100%
4} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = slightly lean DANGER!
5} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = extremely lean possible engine damage!

Note: You can only "Read" your plug in a nearly new state [Wire like new and shiny] A gray plug can still operate well. But after it has totally gone gray performance can start to fall off. To test just put in a new plug and if there is no difference in performance save the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or run right tray a new plug before making major tune change's

Good luck,
Ron Paris
Any automation tool like Plug-n-Read for the Glow Plug?
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:45 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
Any automation tool like Plug-n-Read for the Glow Plug?
i am interested to know 2 ~
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:49 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
Any automation tool like Plug-n-Read for the Glow Plug?
Unless you have xray vision then NO!!!!

I personally hardly do this cause you will more then likely cause dirt and dust to go into the engine but sometimes if you are running a glowplug in different conditions plus other factors like new nitro % it can help in diagnosis.
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:50 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
i am interested to know 2 ~
Ridley's? I change my plug every two months. Don't really have any particular reason, but don't mind to spend extra $5 every two months though.

I guess it's the same idea people change the car oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Though, as we know, it does not have to be at 3,000 and the oil filter does not have to get replaced that often.

$0.020
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:54 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
Ridley's? I change my plug every two months. Don't really have any particular reason, but don't mind to spend extra $5 every two months though.

I guess it's the same idea people change the car oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Though, as we know, it does not have to be at 3,000 and the oil filter does not have to get replaced that often.

$0.020
Fish,stop wasting money.Oil filter can go 10,000km no worries.
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:58 PM   #84
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the mystery of glo plugs.....


I talked with a gentleman at McCoy plugs,about 6 years ago..

he said he was the father.....


He talked about the difficulty of making a really good plug....I came away thinking its just not a welded filament...

one thing stuck in my mind......he said the best plug at the time was a #8 OS plug...that it was different than any of the other plugs on the market,including the other OS's..

After studying it for months,he still couldn't figure out why...

he also said he couldn't duplicate the material in that plug...

whats that got to do with turbo plugs?.....It goes to show,that no matter how simple it looks,every part of an RC car gets alot of thought....Sometimes more then we give credit for..
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:00 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOLUTION
Fish,stop wasting money.
couldn't help it, got too much of it.
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:11 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
couldn't help it, got too much of it.
Sent some over.. i'll help you with it.
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:19 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vinyard
Sent some over.. i'll help you with it.
And, you'll gladly offer to pay for shipping cost, right?
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:48 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
...one thing stuck in my mind......he said the best plug at the time was a #8 OS plug...that it was different than any of the other plugs on the market,including the other OS's..

After studying it for months,he still couldn't figure out why...

he also said he couldn't duplicate the material in that plug....
I really like that plug. Even though I use it on a Novarossi based engine (MR12), I find the plug's reliability and durability make up for any slight loss of compression (as it is shorter than most plugs). It doesn't really ever 'go bad'. I've tried as many plugs as my LHS carries, and this one last 5 times longer, performance tank to tank varies very slightly. So little, I wouldn't need to touch the carb an entire day if the temperature and humidity stayed around the same (its happened). This fact that it stays so consistent is the reason I use it. If I were to use a different plug that might make slightly more power, I might not actually be able to make more power every time I put the car on the track, plus they don't last as long, and crap out more often.

Very enlightening to hear that quote. Helped confirm my belief that the OS 8 plug is the best one I've ever found. Intriuging to see that an engine expert agrees. But I haven't had the chance to try the Odonnel 77 though, which seems to be extremely popular now (not available to me unfortunately).
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:48 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
And, you'll gladly offer to pay for shipping cost, right?
But of coz..
Would you like some WD40 too??
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Old 08-22-2003, 12:47 AM   #90
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If you like the 77 try the 99 for humid days.
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