Just charged my NiMh for the first time
08-08-2003, 12:37 PM
#16
i herd those were really dead
like they had alot of run time
but they had no punch at all
your running stock right??
for qualifies i would run 2400's
and for the race i woudl run the gp's
like they had alot of run time
but they had no punch at all
your running stock right??
for qualifies i would run 2400's
and for the race i woudl run the gp's
08-08-2003, 12:50 PM
#18
Forgot to say, yea, I'm running stock.
I really got ripped on this deal. I gave him me...
-E-maxx
-3 bodies
-2 2400 batteries
and all it needed to run was an esc and charger and I got ....
-1 3300 sanyo pack with 1 run
-2 NIP 3000 sanyo packs
-$35
-and maybe a new set of Jaco foams
I really got ripped on this deal. I gave him me...
-E-maxx
-3 bodies
-2 2400 batteries
and all it needed to run was an esc and charger and I got ....
-1 3300 sanyo pack with 1 run
-2 NIP 3000 sanyo packs
-$35
-and maybe a new set of Jaco foams
08-08-2003, 01:41 PM
#19
You should keep the sanyo 3000s because they can take alot of abuse. For example: you can charge them at 8 amps with a .7 peak detect and youll have whole alot of punch on the track. They do get really warm but thats normal. Keep a fan handy at the track. I seen an oval racer charge a pack at 10 amps and he smoked half the field for the first 2-3 minutes of the race. Thats only because he accidently discharged his pack for 1-2 minutes before his main.
08-08-2003, 01:52 PM
#21
LOL, yea it would.
08-08-2003, 02:06 PM
#22
gp's are the way to go
the reason i said get some 2400's for practice/qualify is that they have ALOT of punch.
1500's just have a insane ammount but im not sure its ROAR legal cause its cheap.
im gonna keep that in mind when racing indoor season again. charge them at like 7 amps
i dont really care about those batteries anyways
the reason i said get some 2400's for practice/qualify is that they have ALOT of punch.
1500's just have a insane ammount but im not sure its ROAR legal cause its cheap.
im gonna keep that in mind when racing indoor season again. charge them at like 7 amps
i dont really care about those batteries anyways
08-08-2003, 02:14 PM
#23
Aight I'll do that. How much do you think I can get out of those batteries they're all promatch..
the 3300 has 1 run
and the 3000's are still in the shrink wrap
I was thinking maybe I could trade them for a set of NIP GP's and some 2400's?
the 3300 has 1 run
and the 3000's are still in the shrink wrap
I was thinking maybe I could trade them for a set of NIP GP's and some 2400's?
08-08-2003, 03:02 PM
#25
if your getting gp's
pm me or talk to me on msn at [email protected]
in hong kong you can get gp cells for about 5-6 dollers a cell
yes they are 3300's
i got a about 150 cells for my club and sold em. they put it on there dyno and it said it was better or equivalent to match packs
pm me or talk to me on msn at [email protected]
in hong kong you can get gp cells for about 5-6 dollers a cell
yes they are 3300's
i got a about 150 cells for my club and sold em. they put it on there dyno and it said it was better or equivalent to match packs
08-08-2003, 03:45 PM
#27
Mike,
5-6 amps is the way to go. 6 amps will give you a little more punch and will reduce _runtime_ a little but should not significantly reduce the cells _lifespan_. The SMC advice is spot on.
As far as costs of batteries, you might check out my sig, our matched packs start at 6.50 per cell.
5-6 amps is the way to go. 6 amps will give you a little more punch and will reduce _runtime_ a little but should not significantly reduce the cells _lifespan_. The SMC advice is spot on.
As far as costs of batteries, you might check out my sig, our matched packs start at 6.50 per cell.
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