5LikesTamiya TB-03
07-30-2009, 03:04 PM
#497
Well, I got my steering upgrades and installed them tonight: carbon link, steering set, and high torque servo saver. It all worked like a charm and the steering is very solid now. No more drunken sailor in a straight. Definitely money well spent.
I just can't believe that Tamiya would ship steering like that in what is otherwise an awesome kit. Don't get me wrong, I'm very happy with my TB03, but that's probably in part to fully expecting to have this problem when I bought it. I can see the argument for trying to sell hop ups, but as sloppy as the stock steering is, you'd think it'd be better business to fix the kit.
I just can't believe that Tamiya would ship steering like that in what is otherwise an awesome kit. Don't get me wrong, I'm very happy with my TB03, but that's probably in part to fully expecting to have this problem when I bought it. I can see the argument for trying to sell hop ups, but as sloppy as the stock steering is, you'd think it'd be better business to fix the kit.
If they had spec'd thinker walled barrel shims it would have taken out most of it.
07-30-2009, 03:09 PM
#498
My standard Raybrig NSX 2007 one weighs 141g w/ plactic wing.
My LW ebbro 350R weighs 96g w/ op.604B wing. This is after reinforcing the body with some tape and shogoo BUT I lost the rear bumper
so it should be more around 110g? The normal version is supposed to be about 159g.
So I am guessing the LW NSX body should come around 100g.
My LW ebbro 350R weighs 96g w/ op.604B wing. This is after reinforcing the body with some tape and shogoo BUT I lost the rear bumper
so it should be more around 110g? The normal version is supposed to be about 159g.So I am guessing the LW NSX body should come around 100g.
Guess I will have to go into my wallet to get another body. 100G is what I'm shooting for. Guess I might have to get a LW NSX then....I like to be different though.
07-30-2009, 03:15 PM
#499
Glad to hear you got your steering sorted. It will make the car so much more precise to drive. Yeah, I totally agree with you about the steering play, Maybe the designers were out for beers that day If they had spec'd thinker walled barrel shims it would have taken out most of it.
If they had spec'd thinker walled barrel shims it would have taken out most of it.Anyway, I can't wait for the weekend. It really is one of those "night and day" kind of upgrades.
07-30-2009, 04:16 PM
#500
I noticed that too? Any handling tips from this Timmie? Conventionally you want the heavier shock body assembly to be sprung weight.
Thanks for all of the weights Timmie! I will be fine tuning my TB to put it on a diet also. The rules for RCGT show 1400g's also. Ready to race I'm at a portly 1535g! (But it's still kicking their butts! Hahaha)
I'm going to the Tamiya track this Saturday. I'll bring bodies and a stop watch.
Jimmy W
Thanks for all of the weights Timmie! I will be fine tuning my TB to put it on a diet also. The rules for RCGT show 1400g's also. Ready to race I'm at a portly 1535g! (But it's still kicking their butts! Hahaha)
I'm going to the Tamiya track this Saturday. I'll bring bodies and a stop watch.
Jimmy W
Haha I think you two are the first that caught that
Maybe someone else mentioned it before but I don't remember...I did this for a couple of reasons. One, it makes spring changes easier for me. I never pop shocks off to change things, It wears out the fit on the shock ends. So instead I use Tamiya hex headed ball studs. Makes it quick and easy. When I want to change springs I have a nice straight shot to the hex ballstud going into the corner of the chassis instead. If the shocks were in the position like the kit says I would have to take them loose at the rockers and that is harder to do in my opinion. Two, is the weight. I always try to get weight to the center of the chassis. Even though it sits higher like this, I still want as much in towards the middle. The shock bodies do become unsprung weight by having them situated like I have them, but I think the effect is reduced with it being a part of a cantilever design. I might be wrong, but it works for me
And what negatives this has on the car doesn't outweigh my desire for being able to change springs quickly without having to pop something off. It's a trade off like anything else I guess. Yeah Jimmy kick there butt! hehe I like reading your blogs on the TRF site, they get me all pumped and ready to race! Awesome, I'm glad your heading over to there track. Tell me how the traction is please since they just re sealed it.. Wow 1400 for RCGT? you guys must be flying! Thanks in advance for the body testing
07-30-2009, 04:27 PM
#501
Oh btw, my TB-03 came in 2nd at the A main of 17.5 against other $400+ cars.
Thanks to timmie for the setup. I made some changes to the car such as a front slipper spool (to protect drive train from crashes) and slight front arm sweep for more turn in. I do notice that the car has slight high speed understeer, but controllable so I guess that works out fine. Geared at 4.25 and motor temps around 140F. Could go lower but I found it to have better corner exit at that gearing.
So far loving the car. It's also refreshing to see bodies other than the cheese wedge ones that desperately needs a population control. This chassis would make an excellent RCGT car too imo.
Thanks to timmie for the setup. I made some changes to the car such as a front slipper spool (to protect drive train from crashes) and slight front arm sweep for more turn in. I do notice that the car has slight high speed understeer, but controllable so I guess that works out fine. Geared at 4.25 and motor temps around 140F. Could go lower but I found it to have better corner exit at that gearing. So far loving the car. It's also refreshing to see bodies other than the cheese wedge ones that desperately needs a population control. This chassis would make an excellent RCGT car too imo.
07-30-2009, 04:41 PM
#502
Redbones,
Thats cool you made a slipper spool. I would like to see this as well. Good thinking. I made a modified spool that uses 416 delrin cups and sleeves to help reduce chatter and to reduce weight. But it requires a modification to the diff housings to run. So I'm not going to use until after TCS races. I would like to try out what you made though, it could be like a tunable spool!
Here are some pics of the spool I made
Thats cool you made a slipper spool. I would like to see this as well. Good thinking
. I made a modified spool that uses 416 delrin cups and sleeves to help reduce chatter and to reduce weight. But it requires a modification to the diff housings to run. So I'm not going to use until after TCS races. I would like to try out what you made though, it could be like a tunable spool! Here are some pics of the spool I made
07-30-2009, 05:47 PM
#504
Tech Master
Redbones,
Thats cool you made a slipper spool. I would like to see this as well. Good thinking. I made a modified spool that uses 416 delrin cups and sleeves to help reduce chatter and to reduce weight. But it requires a modification to the diff housings to run. So I'm not going to use until after TCS races. I would like to try out what you made though, it could be like a tunable spool!
Here are some pics of the spool I made
Thats cool you made a slipper spool. I would like to see this as well. Good thinking
. I made a modified spool that uses 416 delrin cups and sleeves to help reduce chatter and to reduce weight. But it requires a modification to the diff housings to run. So I'm not going to use until after TCS races. I would like to try out what you made though, it could be like a tunable spool! Here are some pics of the spool I made
This method makes the diff very tight on my 416, but still kinda loose with the stock plastic outdrives I'm using. Going to see how it will work when I do get the alloy ones installed.
As far as weight is concerned, I compared the 416 spool to the 416 slipper diff, and there was only about 1-2g of difference. I'm assuming it would be the same with the tb03 one. But that idea of using the 416 spool cups seems like a great one.
07-30-2009, 05:55 PM
#505
I replaced three of the balls in the diff with the slipper pegs from traxxas. I had to shave them down so it fits into the holes, and then shave the flat ends down to exactly 3mm. Then I was able to get a fairly tight diff that still has a differential function.
This method makes the diff very tight on my 416, but still kinda loose with the stock plastic outdrives I'm using. Going to see how it will work when I do get the alloy ones installed.
As far as weight is concerned, I compared the 416 spool to the 416 slipper diff, and there was only about 1-2g of difference. I'm assuming it would be the same with the tb03 one. But that idea of using the 416 spool cups seems like a great one.
This method makes the diff very tight on my 416, but still kinda loose with the stock plastic outdrives I'm using. Going to see how it will work when I do get the alloy ones installed.
As far as weight is concerned, I compared the 416 spool to the 416 slipper diff, and there was only about 1-2g of difference. I'm assuming it would be the same with the tb03 one. But that idea of using the 416 spool cups seems like a great one.
And thanks for the tip on the 416 cups Timmie!
07-30-2009, 07:43 PM
#507
07-30-2009, 09:36 PM
#508
Tech Master