HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

IMO, you would benefit from hopups on this car. The LW shafts helps in acceleration. Combine this with the LW 2speed and you reduced a great amount off the drivetrain. The LW 2speeds (1.0 and .8 module) allows a greater range of tuning. The LW stuff makes even some less mild RE engines run faster. My MT12 ran very noticable faster with those upgrades. The Graphite shock towers adds more tuning options if you can't seem to find that setup for the track. I found setups that I didn't find with the stock setup and my car handles even better. For now I'll get the steering upgraded and more spare parts for the car. Gonna setup the car again for Floyd.

KLANDERMAN

All the LW parts are awesome, but knowing what I know now about the R-40, I would first put the car together stock and get a feel for what it is, after a while I would get the LW shafts and the LW 2 speed to see the acceleration difference with the stock shafts and stock tranny. After all this is said and done, get the graphite shock towers, the graphite side belt tensioner, graphite steering brace and so on... By the time you do al these mods, youll be familiar with the car and know exactly if you need to spend your $$$ on the changes... I would concentrate more on a nice .12 3 port engine, header and tuned pipe, a fail safe device and a nice radio before I do any changes...
GOOD LUCK!

KLANDERMAN

HEY HARK- that car looks awesome, how long did it take you to put it together? Did you do an all nighter by the way??? MAN it looks so big compared to the R-40... Let me know where I can get all the spare parts and maybe I'll get the mrx4 instead of the proceed....

WeatherB

iTrader: (4)

I find that the car has better accelaration than my Serpent thanks to the centax's lightweigh flywheel. I can't handel the insane acceleration already. Can't imagine how it would be with all that lightweight stuff.

KLANDERMAN

If your acceleration is fine and you don't want more LW parts, make sure you get your car dialed, so this way you can drive it better. I thought I wouldn'd need any LW parts at first, but when competing at the trac many car had better handling and acceleration than me. Now with the LW parts I get to hang behind the IMPACTS which are bigger, better and faster, so bottom line the LW parts are awesome, but they are expensive, so think about it and go do some racing...

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Yeah you probably should get the better performing car. Plus it probably has better part support.

Unless you can find a proceed kit for real cheap. Get the mrx4 or whatever is doing well and your local shop has stock of.

KLANDERMAN

YEAH actually like I said before, I have no support here, so I order everything frm towers or rcmart, but if my friend wants to get the 1/8, I'll probably get it too, but thanx for your help

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Ive seen proceed kits for sale on ebay sometimes for very cheap. Sometimes $300 or so, brand new.

Used you can find them pretty good prices and they usually will come with quite a few parts.

Mine has a lot of stuff or at least it looks like it. LW shafts and few other lightweight mods.

gibbous

iTrader: (10)

Of course - get the manual if you don't already have it from the HPI website. Clean it off, of course. Take it completely apart and it will help you get familiar with the car. I also bought one 2nd hand as my first nitro car, but it's in farily good shape and pretty hopped up.

The newest most craziest thing for me coming from 7 years of electric is the clutch. The manual says to include an O-shaped spring in the grove of the 4 clutch shoes, but we've come to find out that this is optional. Getting that clutch shimmed and spaced right is key. Do not quit until it's perfect. The shoe should spin freely, yet only have very, very little play (contay?). If you are not going to run the o-spring, and you have a powerful motor, you may want to consider getting a stiffer central spring to help compensate. Running my HPI Nitro Star .12r, I haven't found it necessary. You may also have to shorten the pins that are coming from the flywheel. This helps the enagement of the clutch. You can either dremel them or pound them shorter with a rubber mallet or something.

If you are starting with a new engine, follow the break-in instructions that came with the motor, if nothing else. There are other break-in procedures out there that you might feel comfortable following as well. Search the forums for those. Before break-in, make sure to pick up 3 or 4 extra glow plugs because I had a problem with a weak plug not staying hot enough.

Check your hinge pins for bending. You don't have to replace a slightly bent pin as long as it happens to be spaced correctly so nothing binds. This limits your setup options, though. It does appear to be hard to keep those pesky little spacers in place, but I think they are really just to measure more than for any actual supportive purposes. I've been told the rear belt fades faster than the other two, so you may want to check that. I have a relatively fast steering servo (Hitec 925MG), but a standard servo running the throttle for now. Wiring is a bit tricky, but managable with the help of some zip-ties.

Post questions here and spend some time going through the thread. It helped me decide to get the R40 in the first place.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Some shots from today. I broke the 8th in with about 4 tanks, but when we started getting a crowd I had to bust out the R40. We has some of the sickest drags and we got a lot of laughs, cheers, and wows lol. On the way back down to us, he drove into my line and my wedge body scooped him a foot & half into the air! He flew got a good 10ft since we were goin about 30mph and skidded on the hood under the the real car. Wish I got than on tape, but these cars are scary when driving single hand and the digi cam in the other. For the R40 I got trinity hex nuts and another THS air filter. They are cheaper than ellegis and I get two for the price of one. My next big purchase is the JR XS3. It's synthesised so no changing xystals for me!

regg151

so when you sending me the vid?

you'll love the XS3 it works great and all the settings make life much easier.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Btw, them GRP foam are SO old. I think they are about a yr or so. However, traction was pretty good. I also took some of the diff oil that goes in the front, and squirt a small amount in the back. Using both red springs from the NEO TNT on all 4s, and the rear having a slightly stiffer suspension setup, the car to me tracked pretty straight and all. The only difference was the steering response an all was faster, which is something I liked about todays running. Good to see I'm always going from good, better, best.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Honestly the 8th was really scary to drive with a camera in hand. It accelerates so sharp and turns on a dime. This car is UNBELEIVABLE! The vid is short, but even for how slow it seems, I out accelerated my R40 and my friends R40. Just blipping the throttle it jerks forward a heck lot more as well. SICK!!! Sending the vid now!

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Wait till you get it on a track, that's where the 8th scale cars really shine. It'll corner like and electric tourer, only faster like nitro...

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Sounds good. What are you using for throttle btw? I think my hitec 625MG may be too strong. I really need to dial out some of this breaking since a tap sends me around. Gonna put the airfilter on the 8th and hold my JR radio. That regular XS3 is gonna be MINE!