rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I used the stock ball studs even the bellcranks are drilled for metric....

racer

rc-zombies,

if you use the stock ball studs, what brand/size ball cups do you use?

i find that the hpi ball cups are too large and limits the steering arm from swinging to its max left/right.

Thanks in advance!

popsracer

Guys;

No racing going on this weekend locally (raining anyways).

I did have a chance to buy 2 new Battery Packs though. The Voltage looks really good, so we'll see how they work next weekend.
Have also not made any more changes to my Car, as it is really working well. Also don't have any future plans on retiring my Pro-3 unless parts become hard to find and so far so good.

newracer

I got some Yokomo ball studs and they work perfect. The ball is the same size and the thread is 3mm. The last 1mm isn't threaded so it had to be pursuaded but it worked great.

I also just noticed that the ball stud doesn't allow the full travel but it doesn't matter cuase I have my dual rate way down anyways.

racer

Thanks, newracer

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

What parts are you looking for??? I have a PRO3 that can be Used for parts for 350$ shipped

-Dave

popsracer

Hi Guys;

Been working on freeing up the Drivetrain on my Pro-3 and it seems like the Front (long) belt is the sticking point. Even after months of racing with the Low Drag belt, it is still too tight and causing quite a bit of drag.

Has anyone found a solution to this or should I just buy another and hope the tolerances make it looser.

Thanks, Steven

racer

popsracer,

got this picture from HPI Japan. you can try placing spacers under the steerings posts, where the chassis meets the front half of the car

hope this helps

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Hey Pop`s have you tried to take the belt out of the Car and try to stretch the belt??.. add about 5lbs to it and hang it from something for a day or two

Just an idea

-Dave

popsracer

JDM_DOHC_SiR;

That is an Idea, but you would think after 6 months of racing the belt is stretched to the Max. My Nitro cars will stretch a new belt out in a few weekends of racing.
If someone doesn't have a better solution, I'll buy a second belt and try hanging it with some weight.

Too bad the Bearing adjusters from the Rear won't fit the Front diff housing.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

I`m trin th weight thinng right now on My pro3 so I`ll let you know in a couple of days

-Dave

popsracer

JDM_DOHC_SiR;

I've actually heard of this "Weight" thing before..but it wasn't a Belt that was trying to be stretched (lengthened)

Barry White

JDM_DOHC_SiR (Reminds me of Honda terms ). Could you list your PRO3 option's?

yobbism

iTrader: (3)

hey,
i remember when i tried to stretch a street weapon belt. i was a bit uncarefull and the apparatus was.......lol....not so great. cost me a new belt! but before it broke it was goin great guns. stretching the belts would put the teeth out of synck with the pully id think....wouldnt it?
what else have you done to free up the pro3?

AND.......with the HPI full length upperdeck, can you get packs out without takin the deck off? (i use ladderpacks, no wire in the middle just a solid pack!.....not a stick pack though...yuk!)

thanks.

on guiness i think one time i saw a guy stretching...........

newracer

My kit belt was very tight and so is my new low friction belt. With the kit belt I was running a turnbuckle from the battery plate to motor top plate. I could shorten it a little to tweak the chassis and get the belt to run loose. I tried lengthening the turnbuckle, tweaking the chassis the other way, and left it like that for 2 weeks, didn't help at all. I really put a lot of pressure on it too. Anybody tried WD-40? I have heard that it will soften the belt and help it stretch. I also agree that if you try to stretch it by any other means than on the car it might cause the spacing of the teeth to be non-uniform.