13LikesRCLAB 7even Cars.
11-19-2002, 02:34 PM
#796
Tech Initiate
What size are your outsidetrack guys? I look at your gearings and see the ratios of around 7.00 to 1, in England we normally run between 5 to 1 and 5.7 to 1 in stock.
Have a look at a couple of track I run at
WWW.TRCC.COM
WWW.WLRC.CO.UK
Have you got amny pictures of the tracks you run at?
At the moment I run my car with the foillowing set up
Number 3 on the front shock tower
Number 3 on the rear shock tower
Outer hole on wishbone front and rear
Kit camber links front and rear
TC3 threaded shocks front and rear
TC3 blue springs front
TC3 silver springs rear
5 degree castor blocks front
1.5 degree toe in rear
Front one way
P2K2 Pro geared 120/48
17/37 gearing
Hot bodies Stratus
Have a look at a couple of track I run at
WWW.TRCC.COM
WWW.WLRC.CO.UK
Have you got amny pictures of the tracks you run at?
At the moment I run my car with the foillowing set up
Number 3 on the front shock tower
Number 3 on the rear shock tower
Outer hole on wishbone front and rear
Kit camber links front and rear
TC3 threaded shocks front and rear
TC3 blue springs front
TC3 silver springs rear
5 degree castor blocks front
1.5 degree toe in rear
Front one way
P2K2 Pro geared 120/48
17/37 gearing
Hot bodies Stratus
11-19-2002, 02:35 PM
#797
Tech Initiate
11-19-2002, 04:51 PM
#798
Toni...
Funny your set up is just like mine!!!!!The difference must be with the driver then!!!
Well Tolworth is kinda small as if you check out Snetterton... ppl with LABS can run down to Final Ratios of 4.8!!!! check out http://www.smmcc.co.uk
Funny your set up is just like mine!!!!!The difference must be with the driver then!!!
Well Tolworth is kinda small as if you check out Snetterton... ppl with LABS can run down to Final Ratios of 4.8!!!! check out http://www.smmcc.co.uk
11-19-2002, 05:02 PM
#799
Holy smokes!! Those are big tracks, really nice. The indoor track I'm running at would probably be less than half of that size, that's why we gear down. I'll try to bring my camera next race and take pictures of the track and post em here. It's probably small enough to take in one shot 
seaball - I'll try to get better results this weekend. It's tough out here having really expert drivers in stock who has been driving longer than me. I'm just amazed that I can keep up with them and still be at the top 5 of every race. Of course it's the car
. How about your race?hey Chrisman, racin this weekend?
11-19-2002, 10:37 PM
#800
yeah, holy smokes. i hate you ftd. those are beautiful tracks. right now i'm running carpet like 100x40 maybe. it's still tons of fun, and i may even like carpet better than asphalt. well, it seems that the competition is a lot higher caliber indoors over here. tons of sponsored guys come out each weekend. oh, and me, i'm not even close to the a main. lately 20th out of 50 or so. but i'm climbing. each week my best lap is faster than the previous outing. this weekend will be a treat as we'll easily have over 100 in preparation for the indoor champs that will be run a half hour from me.
can't wait.
i found out that even with 26 lb springs front and rear and #50 oil, a 3.5-4mm ride height is inadequate as my chassis showed signs of traction compound on the sides. that could be why my car seemed to dig in sharp switchbacks, eh? i can't imagine going stiffer, so my next move is to adjust droop settings per some local fast guys, in order to flatten out the car. i'm crossing my fingers. i do have gobs of traction, so we'll see.
right now i'm running carpet like 100x40 maybe. it's still tons of fun, and i may even like carpet better than asphalt. well, it seems that the competition is a lot higher caliber indoors over here. tons of sponsored guys come out each weekend. oh, and me, i'm not even close to the a main. lately 20th out of 50 or so. but i'm climbing. each week my best lap is faster than the previous outing. this weekend will be a treat as we'll easily have over 100 in preparation for the indoor champs that will be run a half hour from me. can't wait.i found out that even with 26 lb springs front and rear and #50 oil, a 3.5-4mm ride height is inadequate as my chassis showed signs of traction compound on the sides. that could be why my car seemed to dig in sharp switchbacks, eh? i can't imagine going stiffer, so my next move is to adjust droop settings per some local fast guys, in order to flatten out the car. i'm crossing my fingers. i do have gobs of traction, so we'll see.
11-20-2002, 08:47 AM
#801
by the way, has anyone checked out integy's site for atlas type t parts? i really like that car, but what caught my eye is that i noticed the diff pullies are 37t. can anyone tell me if the rings, might work in the seven? i see they also have some dust shields available for this application. i can get harder balls no problem, but i am tearing up rings like it's going out of style. i've been setting my diffs looser, and this helps extend the life, but i still only get maybe 15-20 runs on the rear. will tc or ceramic balls help out the rings as well? i don't want to spend $40 on them to find no improvement. our lhs sells the white ceramic balls for like $10 for 20. that's ultra cheap, and so i question the tolerances. mcmaster is $10 for 5, but they are a grade 25 or better. c'mon fellas let's "smooth" this out. lame! 
11-20-2002, 09:15 AM
#802
Seaball.... I think the bit to watch out is the centre bit of the diff pully in the LAB is offset to one side and may other cars arent... I am also looking for better ones as the moulded ones arent't the best in the world... so I am hoping to get a local engineering company to make me some...
You diff rigns seem to go too quickly IMO.... I have my car for a year now and I have only replaced them once... not that they were really bad, I replaced them at the same time when I upgraded them to 37 t pulley... I only run out doors and often in the wet!!! so they should be shot but they are still fine!!! What I did find the Front ones are always twice as smooth as the rear ones no matter what I do to them!!! SO now days I run oneway and put the front diff to the back
Re: diff rings....at that time i didnt have the rings but I used some from an Yok and they were the same I think it was a YRM4 somehting like that...
You diff rigns seem to go too quickly IMO.... I have my car for a year now and I have only replaced them once... not that they were really bad, I replaced them at the same time when I upgraded them to 37 t pulley... I only run out doors and often in the wet!!! so they should be shot but they are still fine!!! What I did find the Front ones are always twice as smooth as the rear ones no matter what I do to them!!! SO now days I run oneway and put the front diff to the back
Re: diff rings....at that time i didnt have the rings but I used some from an Yok and they were the same I think it was a YRM4 somehting like that...
11-20-2002, 10:44 AM
#803
seaball, what are you using for diff lube? I use Losi clear grease, and I haven't had any problems on any of my cars, including the lab. I still run stock rings and balls on all my cars too.
11-20-2002, 11:07 AM
#804
Diff rings......I had rebuild mine maybe once that's cleaning out the stock balls and reverse the ring.The grease I had very good results are from HPI.The white diff grease is not very thick but does a really good job in lubricating the balls.
When I finished rebuilding mine..it's so smooth, it felt like gear diff.I can spun the wheel and it will spin..
RCSPEEDO should know...I always have the smoothest diff.Generally,if the diff feels gritty,take them out and have them washed.If you keep it that way,it'll last a very long time.Remember not to overtighten them too.This will promotes faster wear in the ring.So far..I say the stock diff rings and balls are the best in value.No need for the extra expensive balls..no performance will be noted.
.I had rebuild mine maybe once that's cleaning out the stock balls and reverse the ring.The grease I had very good results are from HPI.The white diff grease is not very thick but does a really good job in lubricating the balls.When I finished rebuilding mine..it's so smooth, it felt like gear diff.I can spun the wheel and it will spin..
RCSPEEDO should know...I always have the smoothest diff.Generally,if the diff feels gritty,take them out and have them washed.If you keep it that way,it'll last a very long time.Remember not to overtighten them too.This will promotes faster wear in the ring.So far..I say the stock diff rings and balls are the best in value.No need for the extra expensive balls..no performance will be noted.
11-20-2002, 12:17 PM
#805
What's up Seaball? It's Rob Love with the X-Ray! How ya been doing? I'll be up Tuesday for some last minute testing before the big one.
L8R,
Rob
Team X-Ray
Team KO Propo
Pro-Match Racing
CD Racing
L8R,
Rob
Team X-Ray
Team KO Propo
Pro-Match Racing
CD Racing
11-20-2002, 06:14 PM
#806
hey rob,
i'm gonna try to make it out on tuesday as well. i'll have to catch up with you.
as far as the diff lube goes, i use the associated stealth lube. when i build them, they are smooth, and will spin just a bit when in the car. after just a few runs, the rear slowly gets that gritty feeling. yeah, the front seems to last twice as long, but that's not saying much. i can see how the 32t pullies would help the life of the rings. why did rclab open the inside of the diff up along with the outside for the 37's? seems like the problem could've been minimized if they would have kept the same i.d. on the pulley. i dunno, i'll keep setting it looser and maybe that'll help.
i'm gonna try to make it out on tuesday as well. i'll have to catch up with you.
as far as the diff lube goes, i use the associated stealth lube. when i build them, they are smooth, and will spin just a bit when in the car. after just a few runs, the rear slowly gets that gritty feeling. yeah, the front seems to last twice as long, but that's not saying much. i can see how the 32t pullies would help the life of the rings. why did rclab open the inside of the diff up along with the outside for the 37's? seems like the problem could've been minimized if they would have kept the same i.d. on the pulley. i dunno, i'll keep setting it looser and maybe that'll help.
11-27-2002, 06:59 PM
#807
what's new everyone? i got the car a few tenths faster by going stiffer yet. i think i will play with the rear plate to allow some flex. alex lopez of schumacher had a few laps with it. his first comment was how stiff the chassis builds up. i had some traction lifting problems, but the traction was pretty big since everyone was practicing for the champs. i think the flex will smooth it out a bit. we'll see. it was nice to see all of the big names out there. the schuie guys paul wynn and alex. simo and sakke for corally. rob love with the xray. baker, spashett, lemieux, and the list goes on. it's a real treat to see these fellas out there.
12-07-2002, 12:29 AM
#808
wow, what an active thread. got the "flex link" for the rear end done tonight. i'll post pics when i can. it's not original. just a link ala schumacher. i'll be trying it out on sunday. hopefully it will smooth out the car in the switchbacks. still thinking on the front end though.
later.
later.
12-07-2002, 11:19 AM
#809
Tech Adept
wow this is an active thread lol
hey seaball, no fair u get to play with the big boys, that flex must not be too fun, are u losing traction? have figured out wat is causing this?
not much going on i just got some titanuium turnbuckles and some new ball ends, looks beuatiful. I mounted the camberlinks on to the upper chassis and have yet to test because of snow,
I just started to hard wire my batts, nyone have probs with that? looks better. just need some new battery bars.
not much else, everyone must be racing or out of town, this is gonna be 1 slowwwwwww winter.
peace,
nate
hey seaball, no fair u get to play with the big boys, that flex must not be too fun, are u losing traction? have figured out wat is causing this?
not much going on i just got some titanuium turnbuckles and some new ball ends, looks beuatiful. I mounted the camberlinks on to the upper chassis and have yet to test because of snow,
I just started to hard wire my batts, nyone have probs with that? looks better. just need some new battery bars.
not much else, everyone must be racing or out of town, this is gonna be 1 slowwwwwww winter.
peace,
nate
12-07-2002, 12:00 PM
#810
yeah nate,
i might be dealin' with long winter as well. our club that was racing every weekend, just decided to skip everyother one. great! waiting two weeks to see if a change made any difference. well, that's it for now.
i bet your lab is looking killer. i agree that hardwiring is the prettiest method, but i don't like having a hot iron on all day in the pits. also, be careful that you still have enough uptravel with the wheel when going to this camberlink setup. if you run large tires, you may find that the suspension binds just at the point where the chassis hits the ground. i like to have around 4-6 mm more than this in case of extreme chassis roll. i use a spacer on the upper deck just under the ball to help this. the rear is not as big of a problem because the links are longer. if you go all the way to the kingpin like chrisman, that'll help free the front as well.
later.
i might be dealin' with long winter as well. our club that was racing every weekend, just decided to skip everyother one. great! waiting two weeks to see if a change made any difference. well, that's it for now.
i bet your lab is looking killer. i agree that hardwiring is the prettiest method, but i don't like having a hot iron on all day in the pits. also, be careful that you still have enough uptravel with the wheel when going to this camberlink setup. if you run large tires, you may find that the suspension binds just at the point where the chassis hits the ground. i like to have around 4-6 mm more than this in case of extreme chassis roll. i use a spacer on the upper deck just under the ball to help this. the rear is not as big of a problem because the links are longer. if you go all the way to the kingpin like chrisman, that'll help free the front as well.
later.