86LikesHpi Pro 4
06-27-2004, 08:49 PM
#5791
It sounds like B.S to me,You can get a tc-3 to work but you cant get a Pro4 to work.. 
Has anyone heard of the freaking stock set up..
Run it,if the back end wants to come around take the rear sway bar off,I'm a dumb ass when it come to setting up a TC,But my Pro4 is dialed..
In fact ALL my TC's are DIALED..Why..because I try the stock set up and make small changes to make the car work the way I want it to,99% of the time guy's are trying to make the car work like some pros car,You are NOT that person,the way you want your car to work may not be the same as the Pro's.. 
So here's an Idea..try the stock set up first and then try small changes to make the car come to you..and remember Tires do make a huge difference..Sorry for the "rant"
Has anyone heard of the freaking stock set up.. Run it,if the back end wants to come around take the rear sway bar off,I'm a dumb ass when it come to setting up a TC,But my Pro4 is dialed.. In fact ALL my TC's are DIALED..Why..because I try the stock set up and make small changes to make the car work the way I want it to,99% of the time guy's are trying to make the car work like some pros car,You are NOT that person,the way you want your car to work may not be the same as the Pro's.. So here's an Idea..try the stock set up first and then try small changes to make the car come to you..and remember Tires do make a huge difference..Sorry for the "rant"
06-27-2004, 09:19 PM
#5792
Tech Elite
Pro-4 Set-up
JDM_DOHC_SiR;
Try changing the Rear toe-block to give you LESS rear toe-in. I am using the 1.5 and it works very well.
Might also try as a second option, changing the inboard front toe (pin angle) to -0-. This will tame down the steering and you can always add some back to get the response that you need.
Try changing the Rear toe-block to give you LESS rear toe-in. I am using the 1.5 and it works very well.
Might also try as a second option, changing the inboard front toe (pin angle) to -0-. This will tame down the steering and you can always add some back to get the response that you need.
06-27-2004, 09:23 PM
#5793
Re: Pro-4 Set-up
Originally posted by popsracer
JDM_DOHC_SiR;
Try changing the Rear toe-block to give you LESS rear toe-in. I am using the 1.5 and it works very well.
Might also try as a second option, changing the inboard front toe (pin angle) to -0-. This will tame down the steering and you can always add more to get the response that you need.
JDM_DOHC_SiR;
Try changing the Rear toe-block to give you LESS rear toe-in. I am using the 1.5 and it works very well.
Might also try as a second option, changing the inboard front toe (pin angle) to -0-. This will tame down the steering and you can always add more to get the response that you need.
as far as the 1.5 in the rear I have tried a 2.5 in the Rear but I didn"t feel any difference
thanks for the tips Pop"s
-Dave
06-27-2004, 09:24 PM
#5794
Re: diff
Originally posted by HuDy WiNnEr
i am in desperate need of a ball diff for my pro 4 and yet, stormerhobbies, tower hobbies, kt hobbies, and speedtechrc are all out of stock. does anyone know were i can get one? i am going to the nationals in about 3 weeks and need one quick. thanks
i am in desperate need of a ball diff for my pro 4 and yet, stormerhobbies, tower hobbies, kt hobbies, and speedtechrc are all out of stock. does anyone know were i can get one? i am going to the nationals in about 3 weeks and need one quick. thanks
sent you PM... I have one!!!!
06-27-2004, 11:07 PM
#5796
Registered User
3 deg inboard front toe will have more aggressive corning than 2.5 deg.
06-28-2004, 02:09 AM
#5798
Tech Initiate
Diff clicking/cracking
I have a problem with my rear diff. When forced the front diff will slip slightly, you can feel it with no resistance. When doing the rear there is no slip it just makes a cracking sound. At the last meeting the diff seemed to bark when exiting corners.
So I rebuilt the diff and the problem got even worse, it sounded like there was gravel in the gearbox! I have now rebuilt it again, including the thrust race and it still makes the cracking sound instead of slightly slipping when turning both rear wheels and holding the front ones still. If I run it any looser it just slips.
Any idea what the problem could be?
So I rebuilt the diff and the problem got even worse, it sounded like there was gravel in the gearbox! I have now rebuilt it again, including the thrust race and it still makes the cracking sound instead of slightly slipping when turning both rear wheels and holding the front ones still. If I run it any looser it just slips.
Any idea what the problem could be?
06-28-2004, 05:05 AM
#5799
Richard,
Sounds like your diff nut is slipping inside the "Nut holder" It has happen to me one time so check it out!!
Cheers mate!
Sounds like your diff nut is slipping inside the "Nut holder" It has happen to me one time so check it out!!
Cheers mate!
06-28-2004, 05:18 AM
#5800
Tech Initiate
Thanks Eirik,
I have a spare ones of those, i'll swap it and see what happens!
I have a spare ones of those, i'll swap it and see what happens!
06-28-2004, 05:44 AM
#5801
Re: Diff clicking/cracking
Originally posted by Rich_p
I have a problem with my rear diff. When forced the front diff will slip slightly, you can feel it with no resistance. When doing the rear there is no slip it just makes a cracking sound. At the last meeting the diff seemed to bark when exiting corners.
So I rebuilt the diff and the problem got even worse, it sounded like there was gravel in the gearbox! I have now rebuilt it again, including the thrust race and it still makes the cracking sound instead of slightly slipping when turning both rear wheels and holding the front ones still. If I run it any looser it just slips.
Any idea what the problem could be?
I have a problem with my rear diff. When forced the front diff will slip slightly, you can feel it with no resistance. When doing the rear there is no slip it just makes a cracking sound. At the last meeting the diff seemed to bark when exiting corners.
So I rebuilt the diff and the problem got even worse, it sounded like there was gravel in the gearbox! I have now rebuilt it again, including the thrust race and it still makes the cracking sound instead of slightly slipping when turning both rear wheels and holding the front ones still. If I run it any looser it just slips.
Any idea what the problem could be?
i know the sound, it sounds crackerly out of corners then it stops, it may also make the sound under hard braking correct?
06-28-2004, 05:44 AM
#5802
The loud "cracking" noise is probably your gears stripping. I had this problem with the rear diff when I incorrectly shimmed the bevel gear giving it enough room to skip a tooth under certain conditions. I thought it was the diff slipping also. Under acceleration it would make a loud crackling/clicking noise. Shim the diffs according to the manual and it should go away. For some reason, you don't need to shim the bevel gear when you're running the one-way but you do for a regular diff. Since you're running 2 diffs, you'd have to, obviously, shim them both.
06-28-2004, 05:50 AM
#5803
Originally posted by rod_b
The loud "cracking" noise is probably your gears stripping. I had this problem with the rear diff when I incorrectly shimmed the bevel gear giving it enough room to skip a tooth under certain conditions. I thought it was the diff slipping also. Under acceleration it would make a loud crackling/clicking noise. Shim the diffs according to the manual and it should go away. For some reason, you don't need to shim the bevel gear when you're running the one-way but you do for a regular diff. Since you're running 2 diffs, you'd have to, obviously, shim them both.
The loud "cracking" noise is probably your gears stripping. I had this problem with the rear diff when I incorrectly shimmed the bevel gear giving it enough room to skip a tooth under certain conditions. I thought it was the diff slipping also. Under acceleration it would make a loud crackling/clicking noise. Shim the diffs according to the manual and it should go away. For some reason, you don't need to shim the bevel gear when you're running the one-way but you do for a regular diff. Since you're running 2 diffs, you'd have to, obviously, shim them both.
No more clicking from my rear diff-Dave
06-28-2004, 06:02 AM
#5804
Tech Initiate
Originally posted by rod_b
The loud "cracking" noise is probably your gears stripping. I had this problem with the rear diff when I incorrectly shimmed the bevel gear giving it enough room to skip a tooth under certain conditions. I thought it was the diff slipping also. Under acceleration it would make a loud crackling/clicking noise. Shim the diffs according to the manual and it should go away. For some reason, you don't need to shim the bevel gear when you're running the one-way but you do for a regular diff. Since you're running 2 diffs, you'd have to, obviously, shim them both.
The loud "cracking" noise is probably your gears stripping. I had this problem with the rear diff when I incorrectly shimmed the bevel gear giving it enough room to skip a tooth under certain conditions. I thought it was the diff slipping also. Under acceleration it would make a loud crackling/clicking noise. Shim the diffs according to the manual and it should go away. For some reason, you don't need to shim the bevel gear when you're running the one-way but you do for a regular diff. Since you're running 2 diffs, you'd have to, obviously, shim them both.
When you say shim the bevel gear do you mean like the 3 small shims that sit behind the rear bevel gear on the input shaft?
06-28-2004, 06:53 AM
#5805
I'm talking about the 3 Z877 shims that go in between the bearings on the input shaft. Actually, in looking at the instructions (page 15) it shows the 3 shims on the bearing further from the bevel gear. I put them on closer to the bearing closest to the bevel gear to eliminate the problem. I guess you can play with this. Try to get the gear as close as you can without it binding. Hope this helps