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Old 06-27-2004, 09:49 PM
  #5791  
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It sounds like B.S to me,You can get a tc-3 to work but you cant get a Pro4 to work.. Has anyone heard of the freaking stock set up.. Run it,if the back end wants to come around take the rear sway bar off,I'm a dumb ass when it come to setting up a TC,But my Pro4 is dialed.. In fact ALL my TC's are DIALED..Why..because I try the stock set up and make small changes to make the car work the way I want it to,99% of the time guy's are trying to make the car work like some pros car,You are NOT that person,the way you want your car to work may not be the same as the Pro's.. So here's an Idea..try the stock set up first and then try small changes to make the car come to you..and remember Tires do make a huge difference..Sorry for the "rant"
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Old 06-27-2004, 10:19 PM
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Default Pro-4 Set-up

JDM_DOHC_SiR;

Try changing the Rear toe-block to give you LESS rear toe-in. I am using the 1.5 and it works very well.

Might also try as a second option, changing the inboard front toe (pin angle) to -0-. This will tame down the steering and you can always add some back to get the response that you need.
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Old 06-27-2004, 10:23 PM
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Default Re: Pro-4 Set-up

Originally posted by popsracer
JDM_DOHC_SiR;

Try changing the Rear toe-block to give you LESS rear toe-in. I am using the 1.5 and it works very well.

Might also try as a second option, changing the inboard front toe (pin angle) to -0-. This will tame down the steering and you can always add more to get the response that you need.
the Track that I run at is Very High Bite ... and I like the 2.5 block of front... I tend to drive my cars on the edge
as far as the 1.5 in the rear I have tried a 2.5 in the Rear but I didn"t feel any difference
thanks for the tips Pop"s
-Dave
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Old 06-27-2004, 10:24 PM
  #5794  
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Default Re: diff

Originally posted by HuDy WiNnEr
i am in desperate need of a ball diff for my pro 4 and yet, stormerhobbies, tower hobbies, kt hobbies, and speedtechrc are all out of stock. does anyone know were i can get one? i am going to the nationals in about 3 weeks and need one quick. thanks

sent you PM... I have one!!!!
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Old 06-28-2004, 12:00 AM
  #5795  
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what difference we get when changing the front toe block fro 2.5deg to 3 deg? Can someone elborate a bit more coz I m a bit blurr on this..

-cheers..
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Old 06-28-2004, 12:07 AM
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3 deg inboard front toe will have more aggressive corning than 2.5 deg.
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Old 06-28-2004, 01:58 AM
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geez... i think i'd stick to that stock one..2.5deg
.. thanks buddy..
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Old 06-28-2004, 03:09 AM
  #5798  
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Default Diff clicking/cracking

I have a problem with my rear diff. When forced the front diff will slip slightly, you can feel it with no resistance. When doing the rear there is no slip it just makes a cracking sound. At the last meeting the diff seemed to bark when exiting corners.

So I rebuilt the diff and the problem got even worse, it sounded like there was gravel in the gearbox! I have now rebuilt it again, including the thrust race and it still makes the cracking sound instead of slightly slipping when turning both rear wheels and holding the front ones still. If I run it any looser it just slips.

Any idea what the problem could be?
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Old 06-28-2004, 06:05 AM
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Richard,

Sounds like your diff nut is slipping inside the "Nut holder" It has happen to me one time so check it out!!

Cheers mate!
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Old 06-28-2004, 06:18 AM
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Thanks Eirik,

I have a spare ones of those, i'll swap it and see what happens!
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Old 06-28-2004, 06:44 AM
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Default Re: Diff clicking/cracking

Originally posted by Rich_p
I have a problem with my rear diff. When forced the front diff will slip slightly, you can feel it with no resistance. When doing the rear there is no slip it just makes a cracking sound. At the last meeting the diff seemed to bark when exiting corners.

So I rebuilt the diff and the problem got even worse, it sounded like there was gravel in the gearbox! I have now rebuilt it again, including the thrust race and it still makes the cracking sound instead of slightly slipping when turning both rear wheels and holding the front ones still. If I run it any looser it just slips.

Any idea what the problem could be?
no it isn't the nut, what is happening here is your rear crown gear is not shimmed correctly onto the rear diff gear, so when you apply hard power the gears are skipping. this was happening to me and a few other pro4 mod racers at my track. shim the crown and main gear correctly so there is no play, and shim the diff correctly so there is no lateral movement either.

i know the sound, it sounds crackerly out of corners then it stops, it may also make the sound under hard braking correct?
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Old 06-28-2004, 06:44 AM
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The loud "cracking" noise is probably your gears stripping. I had this problem with the rear diff when I incorrectly shimmed the bevel gear giving it enough room to skip a tooth under certain conditions. I thought it was the diff slipping also. Under acceleration it would make a loud crackling/clicking noise. Shim the diffs according to the manual and it should go away. For some reason, you don't need to shim the bevel gear when you're running the one-way but you do for a regular diff. Since you're running 2 diffs, you'd have to, obviously, shim them both.
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Old 06-28-2004, 06:50 AM
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Originally posted by rod_b
The loud "cracking" noise is probably your gears stripping. I had this problem with the rear diff when I incorrectly shimmed the bevel gear giving it enough room to skip a tooth under certain conditions. I thought it was the diff slipping also. Under acceleration it would make a loud crackling/clicking noise. Shim the diffs according to the manual and it should go away. For some reason, you don't need to shim the bevel gear when you're running the one-way but you do for a regular diff. Since you're running 2 diffs, you'd have to, obviously, shim them both.
Also on a side not with the version 1.1 gears and bevel gear.. you can run a tad bit looser clearance that you use to with the original Bevel and counter gear.. the New Gears a re really Strong!!!! No more clicking from my rear diff
-Dave
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:02 AM
  #5804  
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Originally posted by rod_b
The loud "cracking" noise is probably your gears stripping. I had this problem with the rear diff when I incorrectly shimmed the bevel gear giving it enough room to skip a tooth under certain conditions. I thought it was the diff slipping also. Under acceleration it would make a loud crackling/clicking noise. Shim the diffs according to the manual and it should go away. For some reason, you don't need to shim the bevel gear when you're running the one-way but you do for a regular diff. Since you're running 2 diffs, you'd have to, obviously, shim them both.
The gearbox is shimmed as per the instructions and its been fine for the last couple of months, the problem has only recently showed up. There is no visable sign of damage to any of the gears. Is it worth swapping them?
When you say shim the bevel gear do you mean like the 3 small shims that sit behind the rear bevel gear on the input shaft?
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:53 AM
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I'm talking about the 3 Z877 shims that go in between the bearings on the input shaft. Actually, in looking at the instructions (page 15) it shows the 3 shims on the bearing further from the bevel gear. I put them on closer to the bearing closest to the bevel gear to eliminate the problem. I guess you can play with this. Try to get the gear as close as you can without it binding. Hope this helps
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