RandyB

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info zombies I think I will have some new goodies soon

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

My kit came in from speedtech yesterday (VERY FAST SHIPPING!) so I have been building it in my spare time...

I realize that diffs can be installed both ways... (My one way was workihng backwords)

I also could not find any droop screws like the one in the manual. some goldish set screws in other bag but they don't look long like the ones in the manual...

Can I still get these from hpi or do i have to buy some?

I also have to stop building now because my hobby shop doesn't have 2mm hex driver in stock... Now i have to wait at least 1 and half week to finish my car!!!

O well... that will give me plenty time to finish the shocktowers and upperdeck (I did main chassis esterday but it's sloppy. )

Overall, i am very impressed with this kit minus the missing of droop screws...

coastaltony

iTrader: (13)

Z
OK, I put a locked down diff in the front. Put one-way in tool box.
Remember I said that I sheared off the left/upper/rear ball-stud, and had to modify the rear camber links.
After the adjustment I was having troubles on hard left turns. Thought the chassis might have been tweaked.
As I was putting the car back together, I noticed the front sway-barn brace #73511 lost the right screw and was loose. Doh!

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

edit*oops

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Super Steve..

the kit should have come with a 2mm hex wrench.... don't let the droop screws stop you from finishing the car...it can be installed last...should have been in Bag-A...

rod_b

Can you use 3/32" diff balls in place of the 2.4mm. I have some ceramic diff balls from when I had a Losi. Are they the same size?

acutts

A friend of mine with a Pro4 had exactly the same issue this weekend. Ballstud, left rear shearing off .... might be a defect???

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Yes..

3/32" = .094in.
2.4mm x .03827 = .094488in.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I have that problem when driving too close to the boards... with other cars as well... after switching to aluminum hubs... I break the arms instead....

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

Well I ran my PRO4 for the first time in Pro stock this past weekend and it left me with a few questions.First, I ran the stock setup although I jacked up the ride height to keep from dragging the chassis on our indoor asphalt so I ran prolly 6mm front and 6.5 mm rear.I also ran the stock rear sway bar and no front sway bar.My times averaged 17.0 with a racer TC3 on this track.My times with the PRO4 started at 17.5 with take off 22's and dropped to 17.2's after I switched to Sorex 20's.I was having alot of trouble getting the rear to hook up.It would break loose way too easily, and was hard to keep it from doing a 180.Several times it broke loose about half way down a straight and I would have to just drift it.Needless to say it didn't come out of the corner's well at all.I could feel it backing up when I got hard on the gas.So here I am, the car drives well,very smooth ,but I need rear traction...any advice??? Like I said the setup is just like the manual except no front sway bar and the extra ride height...

CraigH

Put the front sway bar back on and take off the rear one. What droop settings you using?

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

keeping the rear sway bars reduces rear traction... try it with the sway bars up front and none in the rear....

university_dave

So why did you take the front off? A rear anti-roll bar will decrease the traction at the rear of the car and normally leads to a slightly lively rear end...

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

I am using stock droop.I lowered the droop one setting front and rear on the TC3 and it improved thinking of doing the same with my PRO4.

One area worth noting absolutely zero breakage.I was very impressed with the durability.I did mod a BRP bumper made for a TC3 to fit my 4. It was an easy mod and helps protect the front very well.

I have never run a front sway bar on anything..Monster truck,electric truck, 1/8th scale buggy,touring car,, never ever ran a front bar.It was just natural for me to skip the front, but you know live and learn.So what now?? should I try both bars? just the front bar? I have the 1.2 mm bars coming and was gonna use both next week.The stock 1.6 seems awfully big ,but I am asking for advice, so I will listen to all that is offered.Thanks again guys!!

popsracer

Sway Bars are a fine tuning tool, but can cause handling problems if used improperly.
In general, adding a Sway Bar will DECREASE grip at that end of the Car.
You have a Rear Bar with NO Front Bar installed, correct this situation first.