Apex

iTrader: (51)

I race at Mimi's mostly and head to 301 Raceway during the summer to race asphalt. Although, I may not be running asphalt this summer much since I'll be changing diapers starting around May. I used to travel a lot to race when I was younger, but now I just support the local race scene and maybe go to one big regional race a year. Rubber carpet is new to me too. I really like it. Yeah, I was doing some quick calculations last night and an 88 spur (or smaller) looks a like a good starting point for a 17.5.

Vicko

iTrader: (14)

JimmyMac come on back upon the 23ed for the SMC race
at Mimi's to run some more carpet rubber

THeGame

INJOY Not FUN

m3ndo5a

iTrader: (7)

I was able to run a 98 spur and 46 pinion....that about a 4.3 for 13.5, with a smaller spur gear(88/82) it will push the motor back to get maybe a bigger pinion gear in. or 88/46=3.92

Todd if you need a set up for the Race for the TCS race LMK. I think I have something that will get your car to respond well. I am still working on somethng to attend the race. I will be selling the TRF416 after that race.......

Todd don't forget about the Carolina Classics.....It would be nice to have you come down and race. There is also a Durham track by my house that we can test your skillz!

What Body did you race at Trackside?.....I will be running a Bimmer on the 416 with a the NSX for back up just in case the crowd start rolling fast.

m3ndo5a

iTrader: (7)

EDIT POST

m3ndo5a

iTrader: (7)

WHY!

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I would love too. But our local track is letting the TC cars run with the oval guys. We get to change up the track during the rounds so we can run. This race will make or break the touring racing at the local track. If I skip this race for that race, it'll put a bad ribe with the track owner. Especially with me since I've been doing most of the touring car layouts and big race promotions since 2002.

Let me know when the next big race is up there. I'll try and attend that.

StickyFingaz

iTrader: (17)

Hey guys,

I'm literally in the middle of my build for my new 416. I've got a couple issues. First off, I've noticed what seems to be an excessive amount of play with the spur gear/center pulley assembly from left to right. The manual says to use one of the 0.2mm washers on each side of the bearings, but is anyone using more to try and get rid of the back-and-forth slop? Also, just looking at the assembly, it seems like the pinion has to stick out an excessive amount in order to mesh in the center of the spur gear. Has anyone else noticed this, or am I just building this thing wrong?

I've never owned a Tamiya car (AE, Yokomo, Xray in the past), and so far I'm very impressed with the fit and finish, but the way the parts are arranged and the clumsy instruction manual leave much to be desired.

Thanks everyone.... cant wait to try this thing out.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Shim the center pulley to where you feel it is right for you. The kit has extra shims for the job. I don't remember off the top of my head, but I added in a few more shims myself. As for the pinion being waaay out. Make sure you have the center pulley on the right way. The screw heads holding on the spur should be facing the motor.

m3ndo5a

iTrader: (7)

There should be a little play in the center pulley to cushion some of the torque as well as keep the drivetrain free...this is normal in most Belt Kit car. My 416 Drivetrive spin like my Shaft kit........which is a good thing. I did shim very little myself. Once there is pressure on the spur gear it will stay in place (centered)until you let off on the trigger, but if set correctly the pulleys should not come in contact with anything, with shims or with out. I use Tamiya pinion gears they will stay in contact with th face of the spur gear.

Jmac I forgot to change the setting on my radio Timeframe on the servo to the 5.5 from 11.? This make a huge different in the the straight line performance.......Now the kit is starting to hold down like my RAY08......She is ready! This is why the car was so hard to drive....I was fighting the servo center adjustment.

g12314

iTrader: (6)

I'm not Todd, but I did race at trackside .

NSX body in GT2 on my TA05R (qual'd 5th overall)
SC430 body in GT1 on my 415 MRE (qual'd 10th overall).

I didnt get a chance to try the NSX on the GT1 car, but would have liked to. The TA05R was a joy to drive, while the 415 was a handful. Laptime wise, the GT2 cars were only a couple tenth's slower than the GT1 cars.

Oh, let me now when that 416 goes on the auction Block . I'd like to try one for the Memphis race

Jimmy

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

You sure it wasn't the new tires you put on your Ray that made it better? I was fighting my car down the straight. My servo saver doesn't center. I need to either put back on the old one. Or mod my aluminum one. I keep trying to order the right aluminum one from HK. But they are always out of stock. So I may try to first whip out the file and see if I can get it to work properly.

Anyways, bring the ray out next weekend to Fayetteville. I wanna see what it's got.

Does Todd read this?? A few days ago I emailed him 2 times but the emails bounced back. I don't know if he got my replies or not. I sent him a reply through RCTech. So I dunno if he got my response on the toe blocks. He needs to check his email address he has listed.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Jimmy, if you've got a good metal geared servo in the car, go for a solid horn. I've run one on my 415 (and now 416) for well over 2years now, and not stripped any servo gears (and I had one hit big enough to split a chassis apart..). I do make sure I only use a plastic horn, as if I do have an issue, it just strips the spline on the horn. Certainly cures any centring issues.

I'm using a S9950 btw

HiH
Ed

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I used to only run servo horns. I love the way the car feels that way. But some tracks I need to run servo savers. Some of the small tracks I run on have large PVC elbows/pipes that stick out for corners. Not good for my servo if I cut too tight or get knocked into it. I've already replaced all the gears in my servo. I run the s9550. You would think it's the 1 plastic gear that strips. But actually sometimes its the brass gears. That costs $40 for the kit. I have plenty of plastic gear spares though. Also I've learned that if the crash is hard enough to strip the servo gears, it's hard enough to bend the steering linkage arms. I dreaded that with my EvoIV. I don't know how many times I've had to replace the steering linkage arms in that thing from running no servo saver. I do however only run a servo horn if the track has curbs or corner dots for corners.

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

mine -might- be for sale after this weekend, i have a guy locally wanting it, but ill make sure tomorrow...

Wes