Mr. Shims

thank you again rc_alan it looks like i'll be doing alot of dialing in this week and try out everything you advised. never really considered the importance of droop adjustments till you mentioned it. ill keep you posted on the settings and the effect of each one on the handling. i'll also scope on the bladders and shocks you suggested as well, im excited to see the results.

rc_alan

Mr. Shims.. When you use the aftermarket shock bladders, don't use the TM/G4 shock Cap O-ring.. part # 502127... Just install the new bladder without it... If you use the shock cap O-ring, it'll make the shock oil leak out... strange but true... I've found with the Traxxas shock bladders, it won't leak at all and the seal it tight... If the rear droop is little high, go to down to 4, but drive the car first with the settings I gave you. Good luck

RC_Alan

border r/c

i want too say we use this one
http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/p...04&cat=&page=1


is absolute the nicest too fit and real soft
with inserts
ciao

Mr. Shims

thanks rc_alan i'll take note of that when i start working on the shocks. ill run the droop at 5 and go to four after and see the differnce thanks!

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Guys,

When using the KFactory shock towers, i just noticed that the frnt has three holes and the rear has 4 holes. I want to run them both on the outside hole. Am i correct in using the fourth on the rear tower when the front is only the third????

BB

rc_alan

Bundy_Bear.. What are you trying to gain with running your shocks with those settings???
You can do both... Try running both with 3 holes out and see what you get and then try running it from the 4th hole out in the rear..... I myself run my shocks on the inner most holes both front and rear... I guess some racers run there shocks that way when running rubber tires... I only run foams, although there was a few posts awhile back from racers that ran rubber tires with shock settings simular to what you are trying to do... Good luck

RC_Alan

jas1

i only run my car on rubber tyres, and i too only have run the car on the inner hole on the shock towers front and rear

Tooned G4

Has anyone noticed that the front belt rubs on the top of the new steering system and the servo arm ball-cup when turning right ?
Take the stiffener plate off and have a look as mine has trashed the belt teeth and i see no way of fixing it I belive this was also happening on the old steering aswell and this may have been the cause of the car loosing the rear in tight right handers as the friction on the belt caused the front wheels to `go slow`allowing the rear to step out of line.
I would be most interested to see what you guys think !
Also a quick vote- `hands up those who should have bought a 710 !?! `

Sow&Steady

Me!!!

rc_alan

Strainge... Mines doesn't... My front belt clears everything.. Turning left and right... I even open up things in the bulk head to add a little more steering throw... Anybody else???

RC_Alan

Project D

iTrader: (8)

So basicly u guys think the 710 run better and has less problem than the g4?

Mr. Shims

still working on my steering, so far my rail loves to eat up the gear of my servo. hehehe but enough for me to get a 710 which chews up pinions based on people i know who race with it.

cvccsi

iTrader: (11)

I have checked mine too... not a problem. I am using the yellow low friction belts.

nickko

Tooned G4

You should check the steering parts, instead of belt parts. If they contact, the steering parts will wear out first, not the belt.

JoeRocket

iTrader: (1)

Mine doesn't rub either !