9LikesTamiya F103 Forum
05-30-2009, 10:55 PM
#711
John,
I currently have 12 NIB Tamiya F-103 body sets in stock and tons of spare parts.
PM if you need something. The wife has placed her foot squarely on the floor and would like to see the overall inventory reduced....lol
If Momma ain't, ain't nobody happy!
06-17-2009, 09:47 AM
#712
Hoping to get some advice from anyone w/ the f103 special edition... I built my loose cells up and taped them in but I have noticed there is a gap between the bottom of the cells and the top of the chassis. Manual recommends taping to the "wings" on the upper deck, but this pulls my 4300maH NiMHs off the top of the chassis.
Don't worry about it?
Also, I built my stick battery w/ the cells sitting side by side (batt bars) instead of end to end... I want to change it over, do ya' just heat up the solder and quickly "butt" the next cell up to it before it cools?
TIA
Don't worry about it?
Also, I built my stick battery w/ the cells sitting side by side (batt bars) instead of end to end... I want to change it over, do ya' just heat up the solder and quickly "butt" the next cell up to it before it cools?
TIA
06-17-2009, 10:08 AM
#713
Don't worry about the cells...that is how our Lipos sit too.
On the battery pack configuration....I always used to use the Trinity stick pack kit. Others use a flat tip on their soldering irons and do what you described...get the cells close and heat and push together.
On the battery pack configuration....I always used to use the Trinity stick pack kit. Others use a flat tip on their soldering irons and do what you described...get the cells close and heat and push together.
Hoping to get some advice from anyone w/ the f103 special edition... I built my loose cells up and taped them in but I have noticed there is a gap between the bottom of the cells and the top of the chassis. Manual recommends taping to the "wings" on the upper deck, but this pulls my 4300maH NiMHs off the top of the chassis.
Don't worry about it?
Also, I built my stick battery w/ the cells sitting side by side (batt bars) instead of end to end... I want to change it over, do ya' just heat up the solder and quickly "butt" the next cell up to it before it cools?
TIA
Don't worry about it?
Also, I built my stick battery w/ the cells sitting side by side (batt bars) instead of end to end... I want to change it over, do ya' just heat up the solder and quickly "butt" the next cell up to it before it cools?
TIA
06-17-2009, 10:34 AM
#714
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
On my upper deck I took some scrap CF, made two shim blocks a little wider that the home down tape and glued them to the underside. I then sanded the blocks until there is just a little gap between the battery and the lower deck.
Having the weight down low is always better.
Bob Oaks
Having the weight down low is always better.
Bob Oaks
) and 2 practice days... ceramic upgrade or no big deal? Diff adjust was @ barely able to spin spur w/ both wheels held, 'bout the same as everyone else in the pits.
07-02-2009, 08:46 AM
#716
I notice a circular line ( groove ) in my diff plate after one race... I also tighten my diff in the same way... when I switched to ceramic balls it did seem to make the diff smoother... I think the groove is normal... use 400 grit sandpaper to get ride of that annoying groove...
07-03-2009, 05:25 AM
#717
Hey everyone
just wondering which tamiya F103 chassie to get?
F103GT? F103LM? F103RM.... etc etc
i want to run a Le Mans body
your imput would be much app
regards
James
just wondering which tamiya F103 chassie to get?
F103GT? F103LM? F103RM.... etc etc
i want to run a Le Mans body
your imput would be much app
regards
James
07-03-2009, 07:16 AM
#719
I have noticed that the front tires are wearing unevenly. Are there any hopups to the front end that would give me some adjustability? (ride height, camber, caster) This is my first time in F1 cars and I have to admit they are great ars to run.
07-03-2009, 12:18 PM
#720
http://3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=3398