fresnojay

iTrader: (3)

Ok I did notice that the car was bottoming out and was causing some of my handling issues. Hence the need to raise the cars ride height. It was an on the fly change at the track as a desperate attempt at getting the car to start handling. It in fact did help but still leaves alot to be desired. Previous to this change I had the front higher than the rear and will now change that again. I am waiting on parts to come in that had to be ordered after my main wreck into the boards that took me out of the race.

Shadow,
1. I will get one this week and solve the issue. Would switching to a 3 hole on the alloy help to?
2. I do not have Ride fronts but I do have a brand new set of Pit rears that I just finished gluing. I do plan on getting some ride fronts as soon as they come back in stock at TQ RC.
3. I will look into the T-bar. It was originally on the list when I did the upgrade. But I wanted to try the car out first to see how it did. Obviously its now on the must get list.
4. I measure ride height between the rear wheels and as close to center of the front as possible.

F N Cuda, When you say just touching the o-ring what is meant by that? The plate barely touching?

I neglected to mention my friction plates are dry. I was told to try putting some grease on them by a driver locally in hopes it would settle what he called a nervous rear end. Does this sound like good advice?

Jason

ShadowAu

iTrader: (7)

I've been racing for nearly 20 years and I am still trying to understand the whole shock piston/pack thing applied to F1 cars. My initial feeling is that it might but I suggest trying it for yourself.

General consensus amongst people I know is that the Pit Combo is a bit faster, but also better generally when its cooler. There are quite a few racers here using the Pit Shimizu Fronts with Ride rears to get more steering, but now its cooler they are switching back to Pit's all round.

Ok... if you are measuring the ride height between the rear wheels you are only measuring the motor pod height and that is set by the ride height inserts that go in the sides with the bearing in them. This shouldn't change unless you change the inserts!

You need to be measuring the ride height at the front of the chassis and also at the rear of the chassis before the motor pod.


Yes its good advice... the friction plates control the roll etc and will definitely calm it down with some grease on there... look for proper friction grease if you can. Tamiya makes a soft, medium and hard. If there are 1/12 guys around where you race they might be able to help with alternates

badboy

iTrader: (14)

Hi.

What body did you use?

Thanks.

fresnojay

iTrader: (3)

BadBoy, Not sure what the current body is but its on its way out. I got the body with the car and it resembles a 1980-90's indy car. I attached a pic of it.

Shadow, You guys are going into winter if I am not mistaken. We are just starting into summer. So I may give the Pit's a run to see how they do. We have also switched to night racing so they might work ok. I know the driver that runs the TRG is running pit's all the way around and he runs on rails. But then again his is much more dialed in now than it was before. All tips noted and will be applied and tested. Thanks a ton.

Jason

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Hey Jason, I tighten the front screw in the t plate til it is firm but not squishing the front o ring and the rear screw is kept as loose as possible without letting the t plate "steer" or slide side to side, remember the ovaled out hole I mentioned?
For me on all of my F1 cars that have run pretty well around here I like to keep the rear as soft and loose as possible without freeplay anywhere.
As far as grease goes on the dampers I would keep it light and minimal. You should notice that thicker grease will make the rear end rotate while thin will help with traction by letting it roll side to side. Dry may let it roll too much and make it squirrely in switch back or S turns.
However I ran my 104 with damper plates and my 103 dry or with regular diff grease on the bottom plate only and with minimal spring tension as well.
3 hole pistons and light oil and spring with light tension are also key for me on asphalt.
Do what you have to in order to take away steering also, less sauce or no sauce on fronts, or harder front tires, stiff springs, toe out will help it turn in while helping it to push coming out of turns.
F1 is tricky until you get it right but that's what works for me and I've had a few monkey cars, a monkey could drive em.
My 104X1 is there.

fresnojay

iTrader: (3)

Well again thanks for all the tips. Once I get the new front springs and am able to run the car again I will go through all the tips and get this sucker dialed in.

Jason

pokiou

iTrader: (3)

Can i ask... do you guys find the F103 still competitive against all the new chassis out there.

fresnojay

iTrader: (3)

I would say so far its still every bit as competitive once dailed in right. I race in a field with many newer F1's . She can sill hold her own s long add the driver (me) is on the ball.

Jason

fresnojay

iTrader: (3)

Ok so I finally got my parts in to get the car drive able again. I did change out the tbar mounting to orings on both screws not just the rear. Screws are also snug front and loose without rear steering on the rear.

I have put black springs on the front. I believe the old ones were black but they were so rusted and old that I couldn't tell for sure. But I have a complete set to allow for more tuning options.

I will practice where she sits and see how it does. Will go from there.

Jason

HB-forever

Hi

Thinking of going on a f1 as the class i growing , but what body and wings are you using ???

Thanks in advance

fresnojay

iTrader: (3)

I am running the stock F103 rear wing, F104 front wing, and an older F103 body to be replaced. Not sure what the new one will be yet though.

Jason

robk

iTrader: (22)

thomst

Still working on list of parts that I need. I want to make this as cheap as possible to get the car up and running.

The following is broken:
- rear axel hub
- spur gear

The following should maybe be replaced:
- tires
- front wing
- the body

Shopping list:
54158 F104 alu diff housing set.
84173 Tamiya rear shaft (6x110mm) for F104
51346 Tamiya F103 thrust set
Kawada (#F0-96) tamiya F-1 gear 96T W/Balls
TRG (#TRG5060) front wing black advance
RIDE (#24001) F103 rubber rear tire (type-A)
RIDE (#24000) F103 rubber front tire (type-A)
54201 Tamiya F104 plated mesh wheel (for rubber tires)

Questions:
1. It looks like the alu diff housing kit contains the broken rear axel hub that I need, is this correct?
2. Can I use the rear shaft above together with the diff housing set? I know there is a lighter alternative (tamiya part 54162), but this one was cheaper (4$ compared to 13 $)
3. I need grease for the diff and damper/friction plate. Can someone point me to a good product on rcmart?
4. Is the Kawada spur gear set an ok replacement for tamiya stock (53104)? If I buy the stock part, I also need new balls (51347 Tamiya F103 disc ball set)
5. Can someone help me find cheap rubber tires (and rims if I need that) on rcmart.com that will fit?
6. Can I use tires/rims from the F104 on my F103? What is Type-A, type-B amd Type-S?
7. Slick tires, is that for wet asphalt?

terry.sc

1. It looks like the alu diff housing kit contains the broken rear axel hub that I need, is this correct?
The axle in that set is a much shorter, you would have to use the complete F104 diff.
If you want to repair it cheap, then just replacing the broken part is a lot cheaper than swapping over to the F104 Pro diff. The part is in stock at Stellamodels and TQ


2. Can I use the rear shaft above together with the diff housing set? I know there is a lighter alternative (tamiya part 54162), but this one was cheaper (4$ compared to 13 $)
Whether you go for repairing the F103 diff or replacing with the F104 diff, most racers I know are using the standard steel axle. It doesn't break like the carbon one does when you hit something with the rear wheel, and the extra bit of weight in the rear end helps traction.

3. I need grease for the diff and damper/friction plate. Can someone point me to a good product on rcmart?
For the diff balls you need a silicone grease. For the damper plate you can by specific friction damper greases but I use normal silicone grease and vary the amount used and spring tension to adjust it. Most of the roll adjustment is done with the screws in the T-piece, not the friction damper.

4. Is the Kawada spur gear set an ok replacement for tamiya stock (53104)? If I buy the stock part, I also need new balls (51347 Tamiya F103 disc ball set)
The Kawada spur gear is a direct fit, but the teeth are the much smaller 0.4 module size so you will need new pinions to work with it. If you want a spur gear to work with the kit pinion you will have to use Tamiya gears.
I would suggest choosing the 48dp spur which includes the adapter ring that lets you use any normal 48dp spur gears. You will the need to use 48dp pinions

5. Can someone help me find cheap rubber tires (and rims if I need that) on rcmart.com that will fit?
Any designed for the F103 will fit straight on, it will be listed in the description. F103 tyres will not fit on F104 wheels, and F104 tyres will not fit F103 wheels.

The Ride 24000 and 24001 combination are good, but I'm not sure if you need the Ride 25000 front wheels and Ride 25001 rear wheels to mount them or if they fit on standard F103 wheels. I think they do fit normal F103 wheels but I have never had any to make sure.

I have never used rubber tyres on my F103, always foam, but I only use Pit Shimizus on my F104 so they are what I know. My choice would probably be PS-0541 and PS-0545, for an easier setup probably PS-0547 and PS-0549. I know Pit Shimizu tyres fit the standard F103 wheels made for foam or rubber.

6. Can I use tires/rims from the F104 on my F103? What is Type-A, type-B amd Type-S?
You can use F104 wheels and tyres on the F103, but the front end is 20mm wider than the rear and makes for strange handling. You also find it hard to get the F103 low enough as the F104 front tyres are a much bigger diameter. For Ride tyres Type A is soft, Type B is hard and Type S is super soft.


7. Slick tires, is that for wet asphalt?
Slick tyres are to represent old or modern F1 tyres. The grooved tyres represent the grooved Bridgestones from a few years ago. Some tyre manufacturers make super soft compound tyres for wet conditions.

colin storey

I was looking for F1 decals and d-drive website has disappeared. F1 paintlab is pretty awesome was just wondering where else people were buying them.
Colin