Re-wiring speed control?
06-08-2007, 04:19 PM
#1
Re-wiring speed control?
How exactly would I go about re-wiring my speed control with 12 awg wire? I was looking at it, and I don't think the mount holes are big enough for the larger wire. My speed control is a novak gts.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
06-08-2007, 04:32 PM
#2
..the holes in all the NOVAL ESC's I've wired have been big enough....tight but they worked ok.
Very cleanly strip about 1/8" on the end of the wire. I twist it just a little before I tin it...and pre-apply small amount of solder to the solder hole on the ESC (I usually chuck the ESC up in my little hobby vice so free up a hand)
Put the heat to the ESC with the wire tight against where the hole is...once the solder melts, it usually melts the solder in the wire also..and they generally drop right in the hole. Hold steady until the solder goes solid...then yelp and scream...cause it was HOT...LOL
Very cleanly strip about 1/8" on the end of the wire. I twist it just a little before I tin it...and pre-apply small amount of solder to the solder hole on the ESC (I usually chuck the ESC up in my little hobby vice so free up a hand)
Put the heat to the ESC with the wire tight against where the hole is...once the solder melts, it usually melts the solder in the wire also..and they generally drop right in the hole. Hold steady until the solder goes solid...then yelp and scream...cause it was HOT...LOL
06-08-2007, 05:13 PM
#4
What would you be running with a GTS that would require 12 gauge wire?
If you can buy the Novak 14 gauge, it's much easier and less bulky to use. If all you can get is 12, then just trim 1/8, twist it real tight, and carefully tin it so it stays tight. Then you should be able to put your iron under the hole on the speedo and slip the that fat wire into it when she gets hot. 12 is a beech because it wicks a lot of heat before it gets hot enough to solder.
If you can buy the Novak 14 gauge, it's much easier and less bulky to use. If all you can get is 12, then just trim 1/8, twist it real tight, and carefully tin it so it stays tight. Then you should be able to put your iron under the hole on the speedo and slip the that fat wire into it when she gets hot. 12 is a beech because it wicks a lot of heat before it gets hot enough to solder.
06-08-2007, 05:15 PM
#5
A wise man that solders for a living told me that if the wire gets too hot, you are doing something wrong. Also, if the wire gets that hot, what is happening to the PCB?
06-08-2007, 06:07 PM
#6
LOL, I've tried Tweazers, locking Tweazers..needle nose pliers..and prefer the PAIN ...and being able to see and feel what I'm doing. If I feel the heat that the wire doesn't slip into the hole..I know I'm not getting the heat in the right place...(and I hate soldering to circuit boards...)
06-09-2007, 08:43 AM
#7
What would you be running with a GTS that would require 12 gauge wire?
If you can buy the Novak 14 gauge, it's much easier and less bulky to use. If all you can get is 12, then just trim 1/8, twist it real tight, and carefully tin it so it stays tight. Then you should be able to put your iron under the hole on the speedo and slip the that fat wire into it when she gets hot. 12 is a beech because it wicks a lot of heat before it gets hot enough to solder.
If you can buy the Novak 14 gauge, it's much easier and less bulky to use. If all you can get is 12, then just trim 1/8, twist it real tight, and carefully tin it so it stays tight. Then you should be able to put your iron under the hole on the speedo and slip the that fat wire into it when she gets hot. 12 is a beech because it wicks a lot of heat before it gets hot enough to solder.
Thanks for the help guys.
06-09-2007, 09:10 AM
#8
Hey TimV, if you don't have a hobby vise, use some good servo tape (Parma makes the best) clean your work area with some motor spray where you plan to put the ESC, then put some motor spray on a paper towel and clean the side opposite the wires, apply the servo tape, and it should be solid. I used this when I rewired my GTS and it worked great, other than I am crappy at soldering and melted the case a little, oops
06-09-2007, 01:18 PM
#9
ITs much easier if you make sure the holes in the esc are clear of solder. Still tinned but not glopped over closed. Heat up the ESC terminals and whipe off excess solder or use a solder sucker(radio shack has them). If nesasary use a small reamer to clean the holes and then with you pre twisted pre tinned wire they should just drop into the holes. From there its as simple as heating up the wire from the under side of the esc untill the solder flows to the esc.
Its very hard it your trying to heat esc and push the wire into the holes while everything is hot, its much easier to simply have the wires slip into the holes cold
Its very hard it your trying to heat esc and push the wire into the holes while everything is hot, its much easier to simply have the wires slip into the holes cold
06-09-2007, 03:37 PM
#11
THANKS BIG
On a side note, on older ESCs that will only take 14guage. And all you have is MACHO MAN RANDY SAVAGE 12 GUAGE wire i would simply trim off enough to make it 14guage where it solders to the ESC while leaving the rest in its original MACHO thickness
Done it a few times on my GMV12WC
On a side note, on older ESCs that will only take 14guage. And all you have is MACHO MAN RANDY SAVAGE 12 GUAGE wire i would simply trim off enough to make it 14guage where it solders to the ESC while leaving the rest in its original MACHO thickness
Done it a few times on my GMV12WC
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