Cobra81li200

I said the car IS great and would need a little more grip. This is overall, the balance of the car is almost pefect.

Patriiick

iTrader: (3)

maybe the CGM version will help, now that it is available in the UK

(private joke for Cobra.. )

chaini

My first experiences Indoor:

1. Broke Tobee Dogbones in the front, changed to original steel
2. Broke 3 (!) Steel dogbones in the front left, then right, then left.
3. Broke Steering hub & Carrier front
4. Broke Lower Suspension Arm front

On outdoor no problems, but Indoor just shocked me! Have anyone had the same experiences? Any solutions?

Which dogbones will last longer? I saw that yokomo worked on the design of their steeldogbones, but i think the material is a way too soft and the design isn't perfect.

Which MIP would fit? Article No? Will graphite parts last longer?

Thanks for any sugestions!

utieh

iTrader: (3)

try Square Ti bones in the front...+graphite suspension parts wich for the SD are actually stronger than the stock ones (this is not a myth!)

nice signature Mr Patriiick!

Horatio

If the track is fairly tight, try starting with a 22 tooth pinion. That's an overall ratio of 1:7.49. You can take it from there, but it shouldn't be far off.......

Cobra81li200

That indeed is shocking, but I must say I've had no problems with any dogbone I bought, being the steel, yoke aluminium or Tobee aluminium (oh yes, they tend to twist the aluminium from Tobee is just chewing gum, nothing really bad though).

And I run high grip carpet with hot 12T, and the track is so tight that you can't avoid crashing at least once a run. Never broke anything there !

Cobra81li200

Of course, I've been racing my CGM during the last 5 months and been working hard with Masami to release it before X-Mas.

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

Wow it still blows me away how many people report back with a bag full of broken parts.

ITs not the car its the driver 90% of the time. The SD is no different then the TC3 or the Xray with c-hubs. If your fastest laps consist of riding the boards 2-3 times a lap your gonna break. But lets assume thats not the case. Im not pro driver i dont ride the boards but hey i have smaked the walls through s-turns and other tricky areas.

I will make a prediction that the guys breaking parts are running the stock bumper with no extra support.


Since i installed this i have run well over 20 race days without breakage. I have a total of 4 broken parts before the bumper was installed and about 2 since then. None of my broken parts happened while racing just while goofin around practicing. I run on tight carpet track with rubber and foam on 2 SD cars.

I sound like a broken record but here is the buds bumper installed on my SD

Everyone should have one

Horatio

The standard plastic Arms, C-Carriers, Steering Arms, Hub Carriers, Wishbone Hangers are very weak. The driveshafts have a nasty habit of seizing for some unknown reason and this can not only lead to driveshaft failure, but also to sudden Arm and C-Carrier fracture thereafter. I have observed these problems over the last few race meetings. The Last big meeting I attended ALL the Pro driver's Yok SD's had problems, except mine

There's nothing exceptional about mine, but I have made some minor alterations that seem to help. For starters, the CVD's have to be machined out ever so slightly where the 'barrel' goes through joint and then polished. Otherwise they friction weld themselves together and seize. The pins don't hold in too well either because they are polished and the grub screw cant grab them. I use a narrow band of battery wire heat-shrink to hold them in place in addition to the grub screws. This works really well

I use Team Suzuki Alloy Steering arms/hub carriers all round. I have just started useing the new SD008G arms and although they seem better, I haven't crashed with them yet so I cannot say that they are more durable. Others are saying that they are far stronger though, which is good news.

Coyote

Héhé, one more from switzerland



In how many runs ?


Oh btw, Cobra, thanks for your article(s) on overrc, it made me buy the car, instead of the Pro4 (especially regarding the access to some pieces like diffs and spur gear)

Horatio

Joel:

Your bumper modification looks really good and should help those who have alot of front end/heavy crashes.

What I have witnessed REPEATEDLY is SD's breaking where just the most minor clipping of corner dots or boards has resulted in one corner (or in some cases BOTH Corners ) parting company from the car. I have also witnessed C-Carriers splitting at the bottom FOR NO APPARENT REASON, during the race but without actually breaking off. This obviously trashes the handling of the car and the culprit is normally a seized front driveshaft.

There's no way anyone is going to tell me that the SD is as durable as a TC3. Cos It aint. I have both cars. I know plenty of club racers who can get a TC3 through many meetings without bits breaking. I got mine through 2 seasons WITHOUT BREAKAGE!This unfortunately is not the case with the Yok SD which (in my mind) is still under development. All the drivers I saw break their SD's at the last meeting were experienced Pro drivers - National winning drivers in some cases! The materials used for the plastic components need to be revised - period. Lets get this sorted, otherwise they'll be no UK drivers for the SD.

rraden

iTrader: (259)

Horatio,
I agree with you completely! I recently purchased a Yok SD and the very first time I raced it I clipped a corner with the rear of the car and shattered the a-arm. Not a hard hit at all. What was worse is the dogbone seized up and I had to beat, tap that is, out the barrel with a allen driver. My day was shot because the track didn't carry dogbones for the SD. Had to pull out my Xray and continued on without a problem. And, I did hit the wall harder with the Xray a couple of times negotiating traffic than I did with the SD and not a failure. I also raced my Losi all last year indoors and two months this year without a broken part.

For the limited amount of time I had driving the car though I was impressed with the handling and acceleration. Once I decide how to fix the dogbone problem I'll continue to race it.

chaini

Thank you guy for the responses. I'll try out the grphite parts, for sure. I wonder, if there's no CVD from MIP which would fit?

The Square parts are far too expensive, due it's titanium.

I remarked, that the first steel dogbone had a small turned groove, where it always broke. I just touched the barrier quiet softly, during a manouevre, and off it was! That's not very promising. Even the Alloy MIP from my PRO2 wouldn't have broken with that little incident.

I'm really disappointed. I almost broke every 2 pack a dogbone, and I'm not such a bad driver, but with almost every touch of a barrier something broke. It remembers me the first time I drove the PRO3 when it was new...

Switzerland rulez!

Tommy Bergfeldt

All 4 driveshafts was out there coz i rebuilt the diffs before i took the pic and forgot them


Shortygy >> Sorry for the confusing text My car is off the tweaks for straight launches.. Checked on other boards too..

I started to paint m new body today (Nissan G350GT) and the masking i use sux! EVERY mask has bled and it looks like crap kinda cool tho with a torn-like look

Horatio

More like they're all seized/broke