Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#2131
Tech Fanatic
koyadale -- My son broke a one-way ring gear this weekend because he thinks it had too much play. He hit something hard in the front. He had removed a shim to experiment with the drive train efficiency. Otherwise, the one-way has been fine in collisions.
I like the white gears but don't know if they are stronger. Associated went to that material for its ring gears.
I like the white gears but don't know if they are stronger. Associated went to that material for its ring gears.
#2132
With the oneway I use 2 shims up front. And i'm using the stock ring gear on it.
#2133
The white gears, Associated went to them because of drivers killing the ring gear for the front one-way for the NTC3, well because I have one, and killed the gears. So Associated went with a supposedly white gear which is supposed to be delrin. It is a stronger gear than the black nylon plastic one. Yokomo followed also and used it. Since the new gear is supposed to be machined(that's open to debate), the gear meshing should be close to very clean.
#2134
Hey this is kinda off subject but I heard there were pics of a gold SD in here somewhere? I am not able to find the pics anywhere so can somebody give me some help here? Thanks!!!
#2135
Tech Legend
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YokomoUSA has pics of the car on their site. Just go into the gallery and I think it is on page two. It is their so just look around a little and you will find it.
#2141
Okay, yesterday I ran at Durham (Nats Track). Didn't have any luck at all. I burnt up another speedo in Mod class. My fault though. I guess. But I have a new one on the way (Keyence) from Speedtech. For stock my car was pretty hooked up. But didn't get to run the main with it because of the fried ESC. So I ran my friends Barracuda with my receiver, motor, and batt. His car glitched pretty bad, so I only ended up 4th. But the car was hooked when it could drive without the glitches. My guess in his car was it's his cheap Hitec Digital Servo coupled with a Novak Cyclone TC. Not sure on the specs, but I figure the servo was sucking all the juice it could from the ESC/Receiver then I would turn the car at full throttle. Servo sucked the juice, signal loss..... so glitching. And there's more to it. But won't get into that. Basically just coast off throttle and then turn off power and no glitching. Blah blah blah...
Back to Yok talk.. anyways... I had a bad day at my home track. I broke 3 front drive shafts!! 2 of the shafts were the Tobee Craft aluminium ones. I know.. I should have known better to stick them up front. But I wanted to see what they could do. First one I broke was with a Spool in Mod class. Second was in Mod with a oneway (lost my drive cup but found it later.) The last one was the stock Steel one with a oneway. (lost it but found it later again.) Anyhow, I guess I'll be ordering some Ti ones from Square.
Well looks like I'll be running Stock instead of Mod this year. Can't seem to find the right setup for Mod. But I'll be running Mod 1/12th with my Yok. Now for the track it's pretty technical and nice. I haven't seen it quite like this in a long time. Actually it's about as technical as it's been. And this is a good thing. I've heard alot of people bitching about it. But once they race on it, things have changed. They decided they liked it. hehe...
I guess I'd better go. putting my Yoks back together prepping it for my new ESC tomorrow. So take it easy... oh yeah.. also the Tobee Craft Rear input shaft seems to be very very very slightly warped. It binds up making the whole drive train not as free as with the stock steel one. I'm thinking it was the Mod motor that did it. Well let me go.
Jimmy Mac
Back to Yok talk.. anyways... I had a bad day at my home track. I broke 3 front drive shafts!! 2 of the shafts were the Tobee Craft aluminium ones. I know.. I should have known better to stick them up front. But I wanted to see what they could do. First one I broke was with a Spool in Mod class. Second was in Mod with a oneway (lost my drive cup but found it later.) The last one was the stock Steel one with a oneway. (lost it but found it later again.) Anyhow, I guess I'll be ordering some Ti ones from Square.
Well looks like I'll be running Stock instead of Mod this year. Can't seem to find the right setup for Mod. But I'll be running Mod 1/12th with my Yok. Now for the track it's pretty technical and nice. I haven't seen it quite like this in a long time. Actually it's about as technical as it's been. And this is a good thing. I've heard alot of people bitching about it. But once they race on it, things have changed. They decided they liked it. hehe...
I guess I'd better go. putting my Yoks back together prepping it for my new ESC tomorrow. So take it easy... oh yeah.. also the Tobee Craft Rear input shaft seems to be very very very slightly warped. It binds up making the whole drive train not as free as with the stock steel one. I'm thinking it was the Mod motor that did it. Well let me go.
Jimmy Mac
#2142
I guess it's just my bad luck streak right now. Been that way for the last 2 weeks. It's gotta end now though!!!! Here's my 2 broken Tobee Craft drive shafts with Square Ti axles.
#2143
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
if you read the TC3 thread, there was some discussion a few pages back about the new white gears that come with the FTTC3. i believe they were not all that happy with the new white gears and were actually saying that they were not as durable as the old black ones. another thing, they are not delrin. delrin is white as white can be while the new TC3 gears are a bit off-white (creamy). now whether the yok gears use the same material, i wouldnt know. i think the trick is to get the gears to mesh as close as possible without binding. anything too loose or too tight will be prone to stripping.
i would consider what SpeedTech mentioned about Adachi's gear break-in regimen. it might be good to start off with a tighter mesh then break them in til they free up enough to remove any slight bind before actually running it at the track.
... just my 2 cents.
i would consider what SpeedTech mentioned about Adachi's gear break-in regimen. it might be good to start off with a tighter mesh then break them in til they free up enough to remove any slight bind before actually running it at the track.
... just my 2 cents.
#2144
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Kilruf- Can't believe you went through that many driveshafts in 1 day! Good thing Tobee Craft shafts are near dirt cheap.
I am racing my SD for the first time tomorrow at SoCal, if I get it hooked up well enough, I'll run expert mod where it will truely get put to the test, if not I'll just stick to expert stock. The Hitec race is on August 2'nd, and I'm really trying to get ready for that, signed up for expert mod there, so I should be racing tomorrow with some of the people that will be at that race.
Hope the SD kicks as much ass as I want it to!
I am racing my SD for the first time tomorrow at SoCal, if I get it hooked up well enough, I'll run expert mod where it will truely get put to the test, if not I'll just stick to expert stock. The Hitec race is on August 2'nd, and I'm really trying to get ready for that, signed up for expert mod there, so I should be racing tomorrow with some of the people that will be at that race.
Hope the SD kicks as much ass as I want it to!
#2145
Hey Kilruf, where did you get the Ti axles from Square?
As for my previous posting, I have been informed.
As for my previous posting, I have been informed.