Xray NT1
#5191
#5192
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Yo Rui,
yep, I finally took the plunge. I am about 2 seasons overdue. I know it is the right decision. Lots of support locally for the NT1. Not sure if the car will be together for the charity event but down the road for sure.
Here is a question, what is the part # and name of the "gizzmo's" that prevent the body from tucking at the back?
yep, I finally took the plunge. I am about 2 seasons overdue. I know it is the right decision. Lots of support locally for the NT1. Not sure if the car will be together for the charity event but down the road for sure.
Here is a question, what is the part # and name of the "gizzmo's" that prevent the body from tucking at the back?
#5193
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Yo Rui,
yep, I finally took the plunge. I am about 2 seasons overdue. I know it is the right decision. Lots of support locally for the NT1. Not sure if the car will be together for the charity event but down the road for sure.
Here is a question, what is the part # and name of the "gizzmo's" that prevent the body from tucking at the back?
yep, I finally took the plunge. I am about 2 seasons overdue. I know it is the right decision. Lots of support locally for the NT1. Not sure if the car will be together for the charity event but down the road for sure.
Here is a question, what is the part # and name of the "gizzmo's" that prevent the body from tucking at the back?
#5199
Joe @ JPM Racing is the Capricorn agent in Australia give him a call he will happily sell them to you. From my understanding he is retailing all the Capricorn gear. Drop him an email.
Cheers Michael.
#5201
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Until now I did a 1000 laps with them and there are no signs of wear what so ever.
I expected to see some wear just like the spur gears or drivetrain pulley's but they still looked brand new.
I use 80K-150K in the front diff and 40K-60K in the rear diff, and I run the car pretty hard.
One of the Capricorn drivers advised me though to replace them after 3 races and use the first set for practice until they break.
#5202
Tech Elite
iTrader: (34)
On my car I have about 4.5mm in spacing in between the graphite on the plates with the stock disk being used. You need to leave some excess space because 1) as the metal on the disk heats up it expands, and 2) the disk doesn't spin perfectly true and may rub up on the pads if they are too close causing more friction=heat. Also, although the KM's have worked great for me, having graphite for the plates decreases the area for the heat to dissipate, so the Disk tends to take more heat. So I'm guessing you may need to back out on the screws some to get rid of your issue. Hopefully that helps.
I believe it was because I left a bigger gap between brake pads and the contact point between the post and the brakepads was not when the brake arm was perpendicular to the front-to-back. (Hope that made sense).
#5203
Diatta, thanks alot for the advice! Last race meet I was able to keep the same brake power throughout the entire day...
I believe it was because I left a bigger gap between brake pads and the contact point between the post and the brakepads was not when the brake arm was perpendicular to the front-to-back. (Hope that made sense).
I believe it was because I left a bigger gap between brake pads and the contact point between the post and the brakepads was not when the brake arm was perpendicular to the front-to-back. (Hope that made sense).
#5205
Hey what's up, you trying to get back out on the pavement or what? lol The 09 spec is good, there are very small changes between that and the 2010, but nothing too major. My current car is up to 09 spec and has been running great for me so no complaints here. Basically you wouldn't be at a lost to get the "now" older version...