18LikesXray NT1
03-08-2008, 07:15 AM
#2821
TomB,
Which shoe are you using? The yellow one works the best and does get a dark line on it, but it isn't a problem.
From my own experience...
Set the air gap (between shoe and bell) between 0.6 and 0.7mm. Anything more will warp the weights and they may break and wedge in between the shoe and bell. Anything less causes the clutch to engage too quickly at times. Set the end play between 0.05mm and 0.15mm. The XRAY weights work great with this setup.
Make sure the clutch spring you're using doesn't fit too tightly over the flywheel nut threads. I prefer the JP hard spring myself and I tighten the spring nut down 1.2mm to 1.5mm past the end of the flywheel nut, depending on track grip. The 1.5mm setting gives a lot of snap and hard acceleration.
BTW, luv the xray vision comment!!!
Which shoe are you using? The yellow one works the best and does get a dark line on it, but it isn't a problem.
From my own experience...
Set the air gap (between shoe and bell) between 0.6 and 0.7mm. Anything more will warp the weights and they may break and wedge in between the shoe and bell. Anything less causes the clutch to engage too quickly at times. Set the end play between 0.05mm and 0.15mm. The XRAY weights work great with this setup.
Make sure the clutch spring you're using doesn't fit too tightly over the flywheel nut threads. I prefer the JP hard spring myself and I tighten the spring nut down 1.2mm to 1.5mm past the end of the flywheel nut, depending on track grip. The 1.5mm setting gives a lot of snap and hard acceleration.
BTW, luv the xray vision comment!!!
03-08-2008, 07:55 AM
#2822
TomB,
Which shoe are you using? The yellow one works the best and does get a dark line on it, but it isn't a problem.
From my own experience...
Set the air gap (between shoe and bell) between 0.6 and 0.7mm. Anything more will warp the weights and they may break and wedge in between the shoe and bell. Anything less causes the clutch to engage too quickly at times. Set the end play between 0.05mm and 0.15mm. The XRAY weights work great with this setup.
Make sure the clutch spring you're using doesn't fit too tightly over the flywheel nut threads. I prefer the JP hard spring myself and I tighten the spring nut down 1.2mm to 1.5mm past the end of the flywheel nut, depending on track grip. The 1.5mm setting gives a lot of snap and hard acceleration.
BTW, luv the xray vision comment!!!
Which shoe are you using? The yellow one works the best and does get a dark line on it, but it isn't a problem.
From my own experience...
Set the air gap (between shoe and bell) between 0.6 and 0.7mm. Anything more will warp the weights and they may break and wedge in between the shoe and bell. Anything less causes the clutch to engage too quickly at times. Set the end play between 0.05mm and 0.15mm. The XRAY weights work great with this setup.
Make sure the clutch spring you're using doesn't fit too tightly over the flywheel nut threads. I prefer the JP hard spring myself and I tighten the spring nut down 1.2mm to 1.5mm past the end of the flywheel nut, depending on track grip. The 1.5mm setting gives a lot of snap and hard acceleration.
BTW, luv the xray vision comment!!!
also i think i am running about .7mm clutch gap, i'm not sure though, i'll check to make sure. Also, running .1mm end play...now that i think of it i think the mugen thrust might fix it...who knows though. yep i'm running the yellow show.
the only thing is i am not setting the clutch up the xray manual way, i'm doing it the mugen way as i find the xray method tricky, and a bit complicated. i set the clutch gap with the internal bearing installed, and set clutch gap by adding shims as needed, then i do endplay once the internal settings are done, i find this way alot easier....this could also be a reason for the issues though admitedly
03-08-2008, 08:43 AM
#2823
the only thing is i am not setting the clutch up the xray manual way, i'm doing it the mugen way as i find the xray method tricky, and a bit complicated. i set the clutch gap with the internal bearing installed, and set clutch gap by adding shims as needed, then i do endplay once the internal settings are done, i find this way alot easier....this could also be a reason for the issues though admitedly
An old clutch spring that isn't as hard will make a big difference as well.
03-10-2008, 05:36 AM
#2824
03-10-2008, 06:05 AM
#2825
mugen bets on nt1
Hi all
I just got a xray nt1
is it possible to use mugen mtx-4r belts on the nt1?
i have heard the mugen spur gears fit no problem im just curious on the belts as its easier for me to purchase mugen belts, also a lot cheaper
thank you
h
I just got a xray nt1
is it possible to use mugen mtx-4r belts on the nt1?
i have heard the mugen spur gears fit no problem im just curious on the belts as its easier for me to purchase mugen belts, also a lot cheaper
thank you
h
03-10-2008, 06:10 AM
#2826
The Mugen Belts will not fit... The rear belt will fit, but does not roll as free. I had to use this once when I didn't have an option for a rear belt.
03-10-2008, 08:12 AM
#2828
NT1 new belt arrival !
03-12-2008, 11:50 AM
#2829
Along with the kevlar belts, new lightweight 2speed shaft, Lightweight middle shaft, 2 speed springs, clutch spring, .7mm front blades, and rear blades, 3.0mm roll center bridge, and 1 degree front knuckles have been released. Some have already been mentioned, but just a reminder incase anyone missed the new Xray upgrades. I think that's all of them...
03-12-2008, 02:51 PM
#2830
Hi TeamGp and other nt1 owners,
has anyone tried the new 1 deg. steeringblocks. What is the differences and what for advantages has the new blocks
thnx
has anyone tried the new 1 deg. steeringblocks. What is the differences and what for advantages has the new blocks
thnx
03-12-2008, 03:49 PM
#2831
03-12-2008, 04:03 PM
#2832
03-13-2008, 02:12 AM
#2833
Tech Regular
03-13-2008, 05:13 AM
#2834
03-13-2008, 08:37 AM
#2835
Tech Regular
Thanks mate!
Actually, can you tell me what's different about these things?