Xray NT1
#1591
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
yes they are the aluminium shock bodies. i ended up going with the stock plastic shock bodies so i can work closer to the factory guys like, paul lemieux, chris doesek, tom esposito, i felt that if i was running different stuff than they were that the setups might not work the same.
Guess I'll just go with the plastic shock body and stock on them
Thanks again!
Toink
#1592
i have been to 8 races with my NT1 and with never running a nitro car before, i have yet to break a shock body. it not like im slow and not going fast enough to break one lol. i have made the A main every time i have set the NT1 on the track. i have gotten it to where im only a half a second off paul, and im very happy with that.
#1593
has anyone tried the new 4mm chassis yet? I saw it available on nexus.
http://nexusracing.net/product_info....02b9261046c6ac
when did it come out?
thanks guys!
http://nexusracing.net/product_info....02b9261046c6ac
when did it come out?
thanks guys!
I wouldn't recommend it for low grip tracks though.
#1596
just buy 2 cvd sets (335225) that will get you 2 front cvd's that is all you will need also the aluminium hexs are a good thing to have
#1597
Team GP
Sorry GP what was that you were saying gives more stability in HIGH grip situations, I must have missed something ??
#1598
GP
Will be trying your latest setup this weekend Team GP, Wish us luck, Any more tips for a high grip technical track??
#1599
Our track is somewhat technical, but open (wide). I'm not sure how the setup will work on a tighter technical track though. I would venture to say that it should be close with only a quick change in anti-roll bar settings to balance it out and/or increase/decrease overall grip if needed. But don't quote me on that...
#1600
TeamGP Caster Angles
TeamGP; If its not a silly question why do u use only 4 deg caster,woulldnt more caster increase your ON power steering,our car is awesome but we need MORE ON power steering, currently running 60,000 rear diff, what does 30,000 do for you???
#1601
The setup that I've been developing gains its on-power steering through keeping the rear end of the car slightly higher than the front with full power being applied. If the ride height, droop, spring or anti-roll bar settings are even slightly different than what I've posted, the on-power steering will go away quickly. In order to maintain the higher rear ride height I found that the 10lb stiffer rear springs and stiff rear anti-roll bar are needed on the NT1 as it is rear heavy.
However, I was very surprised that the car did not oversteer with the 38lb red springs and 2.6mm bar. I did have to keep the rear roll center low on the arm and camber link settings to keep it in check though. To me this gave a very predictable rear end rotation off-power and through the middle of the corner. Then once the power is applied, the weight over the front end allows the front wheels to dictate where the car goes and how quickly it can change the line if trying to pass coming out of a corner. The rear actually straightens up quickly going on-power and gives me more confidence to go full throttle earlier.
Another surprise was how the car handled when the rear tires wore down quicker and the rear ride height lessened. I believe that where the ride height change decreases steering, the rear tires make up for it in more rotation due to their smaller diameter. Hence, the car steers the same or slightly more as the rear tires wear down more than the fronts.
I started working on this type of base setup with my T2 (electric) last year while trying to make the steering instantly responsive AND yet smooth when going from straight to full lock on entry and exit. In order to do this, I had to keep the camber change minimal and hence the reduction in caster. I actually ran 0d caster on the T2 with a stiff rear setup.
NOTE: This setup is NOT the norm as mine never are though...
#1602
TeamGP
thanks for your reply,starts to make sense now, Agree the NT! is rear heavy and planted, why did u go to 30,000 rear diff oil, what differences did you find this made for you?? PS: thanks for all your time
#1603
I forgot to add that the 30k rear diff oil is again a necessity due to the overall setup. It allows the rear end to rotate much better when entering the corners and also keeps it very stable on exit when running less than 1d of rear toe-in.
No problem at all answering your questions. That is my prime duty for XRAY.
Unfortunately my driving skills aren't good enough to be a true team driver. So I make up for it in trying silly stuff, blowing hot air in the forums and sometimes writing a sentence or two of documentation.
No problem at all answering your questions. That is my prime duty for XRAY.
Unfortunately my driving skills aren't good enough to be a true team driver. So I make up for it in trying silly stuff, blowing hot air in the forums and sometimes writing a sentence or two of documentation.
#1604
TeamGP: I'm very curious to try your setup and see how it handles on a high speed sweeping track. The .25rear tow gets me curious as to how it keeps the rear planted without a lot of tire wear though. If you stay on throttle, I can see that it would keep the rear under the car with the front being pulled around(sort of), but then the 30,000 rear diff to gain more stability. I'll try it on my backup car and let you know what I think next Sunday.
#1605
Barry Baker setup
hi guys could someone please pm me with barry`s set up as i can not seem to down load it from x ray, thanks in advance