CurveTracer

iTrader: (5)

I run one clutch bell with three of the small bearings and an extension also.
It works very well. My backup engine and clutch bell has only two bearings
in front and a shorter extension that has the flange shaved down in diameter.
Both work fine and I have never has any bearing failures.

Regarding those Kyosho needle bearing assemblies .... they are so fragile.
I was very surprised to see them when I races an 1/8 IGT1 in 2008.
The same needle bearings with a plastic cage was used on my smaller
and less powerful 1/10 scale Kyosho GTR car (1994).

Herrsavage

OK, thanks guys.. Still not seeing how you're getting that much space in front of the CB for 3 bearings...

Or wait.. Maybe I do... Aaahhhhhh... It's clear.. OK, I guess I just need a second Ofna pack with the shorter extension.. And several more small bearings..

Also, I had thought about shaving down the round black thingy to fit inside the bell, but hadn't actually heard that people had done this to solve the problem.

Thanks folks...

Herrsavage

Will any old Jammin buggy or truggy servo tray fit in the 1/7 DM-1, with no modding?

I have a second 1/7 kit here, and both came without the three-point linkage part. To get it, you have to buy a whole bunch of parts(and in my case, order from abroad..) I don't like the lay-down servo arrangment anyway. Overcomplicates everything.

Anyway, if I want to sell this second kit(got a killer deal for it NIB on ebay), I need to sort out this linkage issue.., because I know the part is missing.

bobbyblaze

iTrader: (1)

you don't need the black spacer ...Curve explain it dead on , i run 2 Advid bearings in front with short spacer w/o any mods

RC-Crazy

iTrader: (55)

I use find sandpaper first, then black body paint after.

Herrsavage

The problem is, I ordered the two separate Ofna shim kits, and already have the short silver spacer in the DM-1 now. I.e., I now only have the really long spacer from that kit, and the two black rounded spacers from the other kit. One of which I mounted to the dremel today and tried to sand down, but it didn't really work, either with a file or on fine sandpaper... Need to find a better harder material to wear it down on..

Twisted_Metal

I tried to paint mine a few times, but the nitro fuel just acts as a thinner over the long haul ...

Twisted_Metal

To add to the bearing issue for anyone having problems I feel your pain. I blew through 3 clutch bells from bearing failure OFNA GTP 2 alone and if you know those ratchet clutch bells aren't cheap $25+ a piece. I tried everything 2 and 3 bearings and even went as far as ordering high heat bearings from Boca and no avail. I was told by a hobby shop worker the best thing to do is to tear it down after every run and clean and lube.

arix

Posted on the GT thread but no answer.

Hello guys, I am thinking about buying a DM1 and wanted to know the main difference of both kits the pro vs the spec, I went to the ofna website but could not see enough info about the pro. About the weight how much more does the pro weight and also are there enough bodies out there for the pro?

Thanks!

WildBillMassey

iTrader: (5)

The DM-1 Spec is a 1/8 scale and the DM-ONE Pro is a 1/7 scale.

Full specs can be found here:

DM-1 Spec- http://www.igthobbies.com/product_p/ofn34303.htm

DM-ONE Pro- http://www.igthobbies.com/product_p/ofn34321.htm

CurveTracer

iTrader: (5)

Here are some additional comparisons:
Wheel base DM1 375 mm
DM1 Spec 330 mm (same as Kyosho IGT1)
So the DM1 Spec is a shorter car, both cars are the same width.

The DM1 has both Front and Rear shocks mounted horizontally.
The DM1 Spec has only the Front shocks mounted horizontally, the rear
shocks are mounted vertically.

Many racers change the DM1 spec front shocks to vertical to achieve
better handling. The same with the DM1, some racers have achieved better handling
by changing both Front and Rear shocks to vertical mount configuration.
The DM1 chassis is longer than the DM1 Spec.
The DM1 has the side body mounts, and you could modify the DM1 Spec
to use them, it requires some work.
Hope this helps you.

jneg

Your problem is very easy to solve, if you have the short extension you can use 2 small bearings and 1 large. Of course you still need to shim for a little play or risk of bearing damage. If you have the long spacer then you can go 3 small and 1 large. Again proper shimming is required. Hope this helps you out.

Herrsavage

Yeah, the shorter one is IN my DM-1 now, with 2 small bearings and 6-7 shims up front.. Was just not sure if the long spacer is too long... If you guys say so I'l shim it up with 3 bearings and see how it goes.. Gonna need a long screw I guess...

The other small rounded black bits from the other Ofna kit are not so easy to grind down.. At least not yet..

bobbyblaze

iTrader: (1)

6-7 shims? Are you sure you got the bearings pushed all the way in? i'm only using 2 shims, and the black bits i'm not using

bobbyblaze

iTrader: (1)

i was thinking & looking at the king headz 2 peice motor mount to easlily switch motors from open to spec class ...has anyone tried that idea yet ?