1Likesnew ofna DM1 pics and thoughts :):)
11-11-2009, 10:41 AM
#481
Tech Addict
[QUOTE=brc358;6592044]
Was able to try out the car with the new shock tower <stand up shocks now> and th difference is very substantial. VERY happy with the way the car handles now. The car always did handle very well, other than the front body roll. But now the car has tremedous front and rear bite, and virtually no body roll. Its kind of funny, I have been using the same foam tires now for at least three months<using the car just about every weekend> and when I checked the tire sizes with a mic. I have only lost about 2 to 3 mm off the tires, front and rear.For some reason, this DM1 is not going through tires like the other DM1 cars, or any of my 1/8 on-road cars. These car are a lot of fun when they are set up right. Would not mind pick up another one, and then buying the electric conversion kit for the 2nd car and drop in a great brushless system
I agree I also changed to the stand up shocks and the car felt great. I didn't break my own best qualifying time (the track conditions were not the best) but it felt very confortable driving and always planted. I managed to get the TQ by over 9 seconds on second place qualifier so it was a very fast pace for the conditions.
Was able to try out the car with the new shock tower <stand up shocks now> and th difference is very substantial. VERY happy with the way the car handles now. The car always did handle very well, other than the front body roll. But now the car has tremedous front and rear bite, and virtually no body roll. Its kind of funny, I have been using the same foam tires now for at least three months<using the car just about every weekend> and when I checked the tire sizes with a mic. I have only lost about 2 to 3 mm off the tires, front and rear.For some reason, this DM1 is not going through tires like the other DM1 cars, or any of my 1/8 on-road cars. These car are a lot of fun when they are set up right. Would not mind pick up another one, and then buying the electric conversion kit for the 2nd car and drop in a great brushless system
I agree I also changed to the stand up shocks and the car felt great. I didn't break my own best qualifying time (the track conditions were not the best) but it felt very confortable driving and always planted. I managed to get the TQ by over 9 seconds on second place qualifier so it was a very fast pace for the conditions.
11-30-2009, 10:01 PM
#482
Suspended
The new MVR arm holder can be used for either the front or the back.
Check it out www.maxvelocityracing.com
There is also a foam steering wheel that has a noticable improvement in steering. No BS
Check it out www.maxvelocityracing.com
There is also a foam steering wheel that has a noticable improvement in steering. No BS
12-26-2009, 02:46 PM
#483
MY R/C PRIDE AND JOY
HELLO FELLOW DM 1 OWNERS THIS A PIC OF MY DM 1 PRO I ALSO OWN THE SPEC VERSION IMO OFNA MANUFACTURES THE BEST 1/8 GT CARS AROUND HANDS DOWN I ORIGINALLY GOT IT AS A PROJECT VEHICLE BUT AFTER MUCH TEASING BY FELLOW R/C'ERS SHE HIT THE ASPHALT THIS SUMMER AND THEN I BOUGHT A SPEC DM 1 NOW CONSIDERING GETTING ANOTHER JUST TO CF IT OUT COMPLETELY LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK OF "BIG RED "
Last edited by 513ATFLANAGAN67; 12-26-2009 at 03:29 PM.
12-30-2009, 01:27 PM
#485
OFNA DM 1 PIC " BIG RED"
NAW I REALLY WOULD LIKE TO SEE A NEW GO .28 OR RADICAL .28 BY OPS GO IN THIS THING BECAUSE I DECIDED WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR I WANTED IT TO BE A MASTERPIECE IT HAS A 9100T JR SERVO 430 OZ.IN CRANKIN THE WHEELS AND A JR 650 ON BRAKE AND THROTTLE BEHIND ALL 4 WHEELS IT HAS PROLINE TMAXX DUMMY BRAKES FOR SCALE REALISM OFNA TANK TRIGGER RED ANO'D CONE WASHERS FOR EFFECT ROBITRONIC RED ANO'D 17MM WHEEL HEXES AND NUTS THAT I WAITED FOR THREE MONTHS AND DYNAMITE DUAL RED ANO'D FUEL FILTERS PLUS DYNAMITE RED ANO'D ALUMINUM SERVO ARMS IT HAD A O.S. VZ-R .21 IN IT TIL THE CONROD BROKE IT WAS A PROBLEM MOTOR FROM THE START OFNA 095 PIPE WHICH IS MORE TOP END SPECIFIC TO THE OFNA DM ONE BIGGER THAN AN O86 VRRRRM RED MAXX LIGHTS LED IN IT RED ANO'D INTEGY PIGGY BACK SHOCKS I PURPOSELY PUT THE THE BEST INTO THIS PROJECT NOT TO MENTION THE PAINT IS HOUSE OF KOLOR CANDY APPLE RED WITH PEARL BASE WITH GHOST FLAMES SPAZSTIXX CHROME HONEYCOMB STENCILED GRILL FULL CARBON FIBER HOOD TINTED WINDOWS METALLIC RED PAINTED TAIL LIGHTS FULLY ADJ WING AND MIRRORS WITH SINGLE EURO STYLE WINDSHIELD WIPER SO THATS WHY SHE'S MY R/C PRIDE AND JOY MY OFNA DM ONE SPEC IS PRETTY SLICK TOO SO IM IN OHIO AND FAIR WEATHER WILL BE BACK SOON HOPEFULLY AND SHE'LL BE ON THE PAVEMENT ONCE AGAIN MOST FUN AND EXCITEMENT I'VE EVER HAD BESIDES MY FIRST HOBBY GRADE R/C CAR NTC3
Last edited by 513ATFLANAGAN67; 12-30-2009 at 01:58 PM.
01-10-2010, 06:07 PM
#487
Suspended
Quick and dirty look at the OFNA DM-1 Spec Carbon Fiber chassis compaired to the stock aluminum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xdvw_n3oJYo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xdvw_n3oJYo
01-10-2010, 06:31 PM
#488
Suspended
01-13-2010, 09:42 AM
#489
Hi,
Does anyone know if there is an upgrade for the Sway Bar Mounts similar to the picture attached. I am looking for CNC aluminum mounts. I am having trouble with the front droop screws gouging the plactic sway bar mounts and over time my droop is off. I just changed over to the front shock tower from Maxvelocityracing it's awesome. Right now I am trying to wrap the mounts with aluminum for a quick fix. Please help.
Thanks,
Ken
Does anyone know if there is an upgrade for the Sway Bar Mounts similar to the picture attached. I am looking for CNC aluminum mounts. I am having trouble with the front droop screws gouging the plactic sway bar mounts and over time my droop is off. I just changed over to the front shock tower from Maxvelocityracing it's awesome. Right now I am trying to wrap the mounts with aluminum for a quick fix. Please help.
Thanks,
Ken
01-15-2010, 09:35 AM
#490
Well, I was able to wrap aluminum around the sway bar mounts for a quick fix and it seems to be working. I will know better my next time out to race.
I had time to take my RTR apart and found a few things not right. Shock lengths were uneven which explained a few things on the handling from side to side. All of the set screws on the main drive train did not have any locktite which explains why the rear diff housing actually smoked/melted my last time out. All in all the car handled well. I hope to increase my lap times this year.
I had time to take my RTR apart and found a few things not right. Shock lengths were uneven which explained a few things on the handling from side to side. All of the set screws on the main drive train did not have any locktite which explains why the rear diff housing actually smoked/melted my last time out. All in all the car handled well. I hope to increase my lap times this year.
01-15-2010, 04:14 PM
#491
I plan to wrap my sway bar mounts in metal, just haven't gotten done with my winter projects.
Be careful how much aluminum you use, you don't want to impact the weight balance.
When I purchased my DM1 Spec in Nov. of 08, all of the drivetrain dcrews had thread locker on them. In fact all screws and bolts were race ready, I could have saved myself some time and energy. Maybe your car was built on a Monday after a holiday weekend.
Be careful how much aluminum you use, you don't want to impact the weight balance.
When I purchased my DM1 Spec in Nov. of 08, all of the drivetrain dcrews had thread locker on them. In fact all screws and bolts were race ready, I could have saved myself some time and energy. Maybe your car was built on a Monday after a holiday weekend.
01-18-2010, 10:47 AM
#492
I think my car may have been made on the holiday LOL.
Well I had a chance to run my car this weekend and it went much better after the changes. I should have taken more droop out of the backend of the car but all in all the car was consistent. Now I am at the point of looking for more acceleration as the car feels well planted. Once I make this change I hope to increase my lap times again.
As for the material, I used a thick aluminum can, bent it to the exact shape of the mount, pretty simple. The material stayed on for 30 mins of practice/racing this weekend and it's still in position. It didn't cost me anything which was the idea to start. I really like driving this car. It doesn't cost nearly as much as my 10th scale RRR Evo 2 and it's fun to drive. The scale size makes it easier to see on the track as well. I race with a lot of Kyosho's, if it's not the engine, it's'their spur gears. These are the things that I notice. Ofna get a thumbs up from me.
Well I had a chance to run my car this weekend and it went much better after the changes. I should have taken more droop out of the backend of the car but all in all the car was consistent. Now I am at the point of looking for more acceleration as the car feels well planted. Once I make this change I hope to increase my lap times again.
As for the material, I used a thick aluminum can, bent it to the exact shape of the mount, pretty simple. The material stayed on for 30 mins of practice/racing this weekend and it's still in position. It didn't cost me anything which was the idea to start. I really like driving this car. It doesn't cost nearly as much as my 10th scale RRR Evo 2 and it's fun to drive. The scale size makes it easier to see on the track as well. I race with a lot of Kyosho's, if it's not the engine, it's'their spur gears. These are the things that I notice. Ofna get a thumbs up from me.
Last edited by three50zx; 01-18-2010 at 10:57 AM.
02-04-2010, 07:09 AM
#493
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
What have you all found to be the best brake setup for racing on the DM1-S
I'm planning on using the Ofna "special cut" CNC rotor with Kyosho IFW324 pads.
The Kyosho precision rotors are a little too small in diameter, even the 30mm MP9 rotor.
Has anybody tried this setup?
I'm planning on using the Ofna "special cut" CNC rotor with Kyosho IFW324 pads.
The Kyosho precision rotors are a little too small in diameter, even the 30mm MP9 rotor.
Has anybody tried this setup?
02-04-2010, 09:47 AM
#494
brake setup
I am using the Ofna CNC cut brake disk (pn OFN49009) along with the Ofna metallic brake pads (pn 36659). This combo works well and yields excellent braking power and feel. You can adjust the linkage hardware to improve the linkage travel.
The side mounted throttle servo plastic linkage has some flex, but vertically mounting the throttle/brake servo will allow you to eleminate the flex by using directly connected brake linkage hardware.
The side mounted throttle servo plastic linkage has some flex, but vertically mounting the throttle/brake servo will allow you to eleminate the flex by using directly connected brake linkage hardware.
02-05-2010, 12:13 PM
#495
Tech Addict
I have used the combination that CurveTracer just described and it work really good. Right now I'm using Team Associated RC8 break disc with OFNA metallic pads and it is just awsome the extreme abuse they can take. They are a fiber disk that sandwish a metal inner part that helps dissipate a lot of heat. Here we at a minimum race distance of 30 minutes for the A Main and no break fade or anything like that. All you have to do to adapt the discs is a little work with the dremel and thats all.