NiMo

I had the previous JP and it was the best I've ever had, loads of torque, I was hoping to find something better, Sirio was bad (3 broken cranks) and this motor needs big tracks, do guess I'll return to JP (must be the way I drive )

ziggy12345

Dont get ceramic bearings. A few guys have had problems with them including me. I have changed them for the steel ones

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

Nimo,

It sounds like your local track is about the same size as mine. I have found that the clutch setup & gearing for this motor is far more critical than other but once you get it right, you car will fly like its got a 5port in it.

I am racing on a 80x150ft parking lot track and am using the clutch setup below for my G4S.

Orange spring, threaded .75mm past threads (2 turns past stock setting)
All weights in the clutch shoes
.7mm clutch gap
.1mm end play

If you have a yellow spring you may want to try that with the stock tension setting.

For gearing run an 18/52 first gear with a 23/46 2nd and switch to an 18T brake pulley to get your ratios down from 7.28/5.04 to 7.68/5.35

With this setup my car looked like it had Renault's launch control off the line (passed 3 cars on the grid) and had more far more punch out of the corner than everyone else.

The key to the motor seems to be high RPM engagement with low gearing.

BTW with this setup I was able to pass 5 port JPs at will all through the infield.

NiMo

I still got the 19T pulleys, thought about the 18's
Got the Yellow spring.
My track has only one but very critical infield sweeper that needs a good clutch feel, but also has to ultra slow hairpins and a tight corner after chicane on to the straight (see track link)
I have ordered another JP but will try to make this wasp work, just 'cos it looks cool

impalabob64

iTrader: (2)

nimo ,try the skyline vr12 plus pipe ,or the novaroosi fatpipe 2630,i run 30% nitro,my g4s is uncontollable it crazy fast, i like this engine so much i hve 3 that i will taken to Toledo race. my gearing 18/23 51/47 59mm frt 60mm rear.with short conical header,stock clutch.

NiMo

Skyline not available in the UK, and Customs fees on US imports are more than the price of the goods themselves.
UK and rest of Europe runs on 16% so that's not an option.
I ran some Nitro Shoes down to the plastic (only foam glue dots left) and it still bogged down.
The plug that came with the motor was dead, so I had to use a NovaRossi 7 (all I have), dunno if this is the problem with no low end, but 5 feet out of the corner it lights up the tyres, I just need that initial 5 feet so I'll get the 18T pulleys to drop the FDR of the car.

impalabob64

iTrader: (2)

what about the mega picco, pipe an header the header has the opened just alittle to fit the wasp engine i tried it,it reved alttle to much for me.

Rick Hohwart

lean the lsn as well

NiMo

The JP 2620 is almost the same as the NovaRossi 2601, and it worked with the JP FX T03, Sirio Evo2 & Ev03, and NovaRossi LL3 so I doubt that is the problem.
The G4S has a higher FDR than any other car I've had, similar to the FW05 with the 37T diff ring gears, even the LL3 needs an 18T ist gear on high grip days, so that is the route I will look at, I can gear up but at present I cannot gear down.
Today has been a loss as it has rained for the last 10 hours and is still raining.
I will order the 18T pulleys tomorrow so should have them by Friday.

NiMo

already tried that, got it so lean it would stutter under power.

M7H

So in the end you need all the gearings available for your car, and double them to have some spare, that is if you run a championship and need to gear your car different for every track you visit.......
There goes the "cheaper" part then of this engine....

Or am I to sceptic.....

fastrcracer

Rick - When will the next batch be available in the US. I've had one ordered from my LHS for quite a while now ????????

AMGRacer

A 7 is pretty cold. Try a 5 for more low end.

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

I dunno where the idea of the wasp being cheaper came from, around here cost is the same as stock 3 port nova or sirio.

Anyhow the gearing situation isn't that bad, and would need to be changed no mater what motor I run.

Basicly I always use 52 & 46T spur gears and an 18T first gear pinion. Now for 150ft or less I would use a 23T 2nd gear pinion along with an 18T brake pulley. FRD = 7.68 / 5.32. on say a technical track with a long straight 180+ft I would put a 24T 2nd gear pinion on to change my 2nd gear to a 5.1.

For a very long 215+ft wide open track track I would also change my brake pully to a 19T giving me ratios of 7.28 / 4.83.

Now it may seem like a lot be remember I get all these ratios by stocking only 1 extra $13.- pinion and 1 $6.- pulley. Compared to say a mugen or Kyosho where I would need several pinions & spurs to cover the same range. Without proper gearing and clutch setup you want be able to get the most out of whatever motor you run.

Mark

barclayrc

Thanks for your help Josh !